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Aug 20, 2019, 08:29 AM
Registered User
Hello all,

I would like to know if Kyosho has made any upgrades since the boat RTR was originally released. I bought when first came out and now I am ready to sail this week. I have heard the keel was weak? Dai
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Aug 20, 2019, 08:45 AM
Boomer1
Boomer1's Avatar
I am not aware of any improvements. They corrected several issues with miss fitting keel fins to the keel slot in some production runs. They offered replacements to customers filing claims. This took place a couple of years ago.
The "ready set" boats are equipped with water proof servos which is a nice touch.
Hatch still leaks and the rudder is still to small. I guess that's part of the boats charm. We all fix the hatch leak and learn to deal with the under sized rudder.
Boomer
Aug 20, 2019, 10:26 AM
If it floats....sail it!
FoamCrusher's Avatar
And many of us put a layer of fiberglass or carbon fiber cloth inside the hull around the keel trunk extending about 30 mm out on the hull bottom. (Careful you don’t glue the keel in!) Although not absolutely required, rough handling, a hard grounding or sailing a lot in very strong winds will create stress cracks that can cause the boat to take on water.
Aug 20, 2019, 11:53 AM
Boomer1
Boomer1's Avatar
Attached a picture of the reinforcement done to the keel pocket area of the Seawind. Most everyone that has one has done this to their boat to prevent cracking in that high stress area. These hulls are very thin and are prone to crack over time from the flexing created from the loads they experience.
I've done the same thing to many of my ABS hulls for the same reason.
Boomer
Aug 20, 2019, 11:05 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boomer1
Attached a picture of the reinforcement done to the keel pocket area of the Seawind. Most everyone that has one has done this to their boat to prevent cracking in that high stress area. These hulls are very thin and are prone to crack over time from the flexing created from the loads they experience.
I've done the same thing to many of my ABS hulls for the same reason.
Boomer
Hi Boomer,

What material do you need? It seems like fiberglass cloth (thickness?) and epoxy? Dai
Aug 21, 2019, 11:07 AM
Registered User
Pavel Pankratov's Avatar
Pre-treat the place with rough sandpaper, otherwise there will be no adhesion with ABS plastic.
Otherwise, you'll have a great matrix
Aug 21, 2019, 12:20 PM
Boomer1
Boomer1's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by dai phan
Hi Boomer,

What material do you need? It seems like fiberglass cloth (thickness?) and epoxy? Dai
I use a 2oz. fiberglass cloth and 2 part epoxy. I made a template or pattern to get a nice shape on the cloth. You can use a soft brush to smooth out the epoxy and if you have flexible plastic card you can use that as well. Some mask off the area to get a clean border around the installation. I wrap the hull to prevent any spillage getting on the outside of the hull. A practice some like to use to reduce the chance of hull distortion is to put a towel in the freezer before time then lay the boat on the towel while making the reinforcement . Epoxy heats up as it cures and if the mixture is too hot this can prevent the hull from distorting. In the photo I posted you can see I made a mound around the raised part of the keel pocket to add extra reinforcement. Not had any cracks !
Some do this, some don't think it's necessary. I like the being safe approach. Hope this is of some value.
Boomer
Aug 21, 2019, 02:10 PM
If it floats....sail it!
FoamCrusher's Avatar
In addition to what Pavel said, it is always best to clean the area with a degreaser (like Simple Green) BEFORE sanding. There may be mold releases or molding lubricant on the plastic and sanding first only grinds it into the surface and it may not wash out. Those chemicals will prevent the epoxy from properly adhering.
Dec 30, 2019, 04:15 PM
Registered User
Wanted to say Hello from Cottonwood AZ - I just purchased a New Seawind, I look forward to sailing with the rest of the Phoenix area sailors! I also fly RC and sail a full size catamaran - enjoyed my first RC Sailing Adventure a few weeks ago with a pair of CR 914s my good friend Ken found at an estate sale. Looking forward to learning the Seawind ropes!

I welcome any suggestions to "out of the box" modifications you all recommend (class legal of course).

Radio Question - I read there was some concern about the Stock 2.4 radio range..... is that an issue or not? I have plenty of 2.4 systems I could swap with.
Dec 30, 2019, 06:40 PM
If it floats....sail it!
FoamCrusher's Avatar
There are several modifications that are both class legal and make the boat easier to adjust. To be class legal modifications can only help the skipper by making adjustments easier to do, more accurate or faster. They cannot make the boat itself any faster.

All of these can be found in the "Tech Corner" sections of the former class newsletter, The SeaWind Express that can be found here: https://theamya.org/boats/seawind/seawindexpress.php

In no particular order, the ones that I have found most helpful are:
1. Put on a more easily adjustable vang (Do the "fuel filter" mod. as mentioned in the SeaWind Express)
2. Get rid of the outhaul cleats and replace them with bowsies
3. Do the modification that allows a bowsie to adjust the mast rake and have the jib uphaul ride on the forestay so that if the rake is adjusted you don't need to adjust the uphaul. See the attached photo.
4. Replace the bowsie shroud adjusters with small rigging screws: http://www.midwestmodelyachting.com/...ing_p_418.html and wire shrouds (30 lb test fishing leader wire). Once set so the mast is vertical side to side, you can easily pop on and off the hook of the rigging to quickly rig or derig while not changing the adjustments.

Note that since the SeaWind does not have a jib topping lift so you have to open the jib slot another way to keep from choking off air to the leeward side of the main. The easiest way is to leave the jib uphaul much looser than you would expect. Normally, you tighten the uphaul to just remove any wrinkles in the leading edge of the jib. With a SeaWind to open the slot, particularly in light air, leave a few wrinkles. Not so much that it is bagging, but enough so they are easily visible.

A good place to start adjusting is available here: http://azonic.co.nz/NZRYS/PDF/Seawin...de_Summary.pdf

Not related to the boat, but to the skipper, download and read the Bob Sterne's article, "How to Sail Fast". The SeaWind does not have all the adjustments he mentions, but download and print it, then cross out any adjustment your boat does not have. It has a wealth of great advise. Available at http://c_r_y_a.tripod.com/Sterne%20How%20to.htm

FC//
Last edited by FoamCrusher; Dec 30, 2019 at 06:47 PM.
Dec 30, 2019, 06:46 PM
Registered User
Thanks a bunch FoamCrusher!
Any input on the stock 2.4 radio range.... ?
Dec 30, 2019, 08:10 PM
If it floats....sail it!
FoamCrusher's Avatar
Sorry, I bought mine many years ago when it was white ABS and came without a radio system. Almost all of the skippers in the two local clubs either bought new radios (the Specktrum DX5e is popular) or came from RC airplanes and use their old and often higher end 2.4 GHz systems. I use a hacked Multiplex Royal Evo 9 (German programming philosophy) that was top of the line in its day and has more functions, mixes and adjustments than I will ever use on a boat, but it has top quality components and fits me like an old glove from my days of flying RC gliders.

I suspect the OEM radio works OK, but is probably not the easiest to adjust or does not "feel good in your hands." Using a workable but inexpensive RC system is one way to keep the purchase price down. Serious racers will have or develop their own opinions about what they want to use.

Keep in mind that one RC sailboat has a habit of turning into multiple sailboats and other watercraft, so I would stick with the OEM unit until you find it is not working for you and then buy either a new unit (lots of options) or a used DX6i from the classifieds here on RCG's. The DX6i's are good units for RC sailing that will store 10 models with their individual configurations and can be had used for about $50-$60. They have been around for so long that there are lots of tutorials on YouTube and most clubs have someone still using one to help you if you need it.

FC//
Dec 30, 2019, 08:45 PM
a.k.a. Bob Parks
bbbp's Avatar
There are a few stock Kyosho radios in use by the West Valley Mariners and the Sun City club, although the DX6i is probably the most used radio . It is not expensive and has great range.

I would do as suggested above, use it until you need something better. Get some Corrosion-X and apply it liberally to anything electrical in the boat including the RX and all the connecting plugs, And get a neck strap for the TX, it will keep it out of the lake!

BP
Dec 30, 2019, 09:49 PM
If it floats....sail it!
FoamCrusher's Avatar
Yep, Corrosion-X is your friend.

Just be sure to wait at least overnight for it to dry before applying any power to the RX. When itís still wet it is conducive and will short out your Rxís components and that lets out the magic smoke. Donít ask
Dec 30, 2019, 09:56 PM
Boomer1
Boomer1's Avatar

rcsailing.net


Beyond all the good information already provided there is wealth of good info at rcsailing.net here is a link to that section.
http://discourse.rcsailing.net/c/seawind-coa/13
Sign up to have full access to the information and to post questions or information. The site recently updated the site. These are time tested boats and once you dial it in, you understand why they have survived all these years.
Enjoy your new boat!
Boomer


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