Originally Posted by stgdz
Guys my problem is I pulled out the hinge below the elevator on the rudder so I don't have anymore room to cut a new hinge. I was going to use the solvent with a qtip and let it wick into the hinge slot and pull out the hinge. I was then going to clean up the slot with a knife.
The alternative was to heat up a knife slide it in there and pull the hinge.
Either way I need to clean out the old slot somehow.
My Dremel cutting wheel is what I use to clear out the old hinge. I then work on one side at a time by add medium CA to the clean, enlarged slot, insert the new hinge -- sometimes a CA hinge and sometimes a flat nylon Dubro hinge -- and let it dry or add some kicker. I then pin it with a round toothpick. I drill a hole for the toothpick from one side, going through the hinge slot, but there is no need to go all the way through the Ultracote on the other side. Cut about an 1/8 inch of the sharp tip off the toothpick, press just a little medium CA into the drill hole and jam the toothpick in.
Regardless of how well the replacement hinge fits in the slot, it will never come out once pinned without pulling out the wood edge of either surface. Actually, the least amount of CA that wicks into the hinge, the longer it will last since it is the CA that makes it brittle. So the least amount of CA you get on the exposed hinge, the better. Since this is now virtually permanent, I usually use the nylon flat hinges for this, but the blue Radio South hinge tape is great stuff too.
Cut the toothpick off with a diagonal cutter and you can also file the edge flush with the Ultracote with a metal nail file without scratching the covering because of the way the covering is made.
BTW -- any large scale kit builders out there that are not fond of pin hinges will agree that this is the technique used to pin large control surfaces on big planes. I used ten hinges, and four toothpicks per hinge, on one aileron of my last wing assembly.