Winter Blues with new glider RADIAN PRO PNP
Well the Weather has been the Poops up here in Newfoundland, Canada as of late.
This fall has been very Mild.Lots of Rain and High winds.Xmas is just around the corner
and Santa came a week early .Let just say it was addressed Too Mike
From Mike lol
The Pro is Quite the Step up form the Original Radian.Bring the Full house glider capabilities for around $200
for a PNP and around $250 for a BNF.
I have yet too Maiden this Ship.I cant Wait,being Winter here Soon.
The 30A ESC form Park Zone comes with ES3 Connectors.All my Turnigy batteries come with the XT60 type Connectors.
So right from the get go i Swapped out the ES3's and got the Soldering Iron going.
Battery with the Factory installed XT60
New XT60 Female Installed on the 30A ESC
I got the PNP version and added the DSM2 Orange RX with the Satellite Installed.Ive tested
the RX with out the Sat and was very Impressed.I flew my Euro-jet(In the earlier Post in here) with it and
went as far away as i would with my 40 Size Glow plane with a AR6200+Satellite.
People have also reported hitting the Clouds with this RX with out the satellite installed.So i am very confident
with well hold up for range capabilities.
The main Aerial on the RX is Horizontal and the Satellite is pointed Vertigo. I Fished the satellite lead in-under the battery compartment,
It seems it they made the little tunnel/gap for for the ESC> Throttle port and worked perfect for it and the Satellite lead.
A few Notes on some of the things new owners have some across.
1.HH stated it was the same motor as the Radian1.People did test .motor do not preform as well as the original motor.
New motor getting around 13A
Org motor was/is pulling around 18A.Guys have been swapping the Prop to Cam 10x8 with great jump in Watts and Amp.
I have 2 on order lol.
So is it a Prop issue or a Motor issue? A few Owners have bought a Stock Radian Prop and got a different/higher Amp reading.
So it could just be a de-fault/defective props shipped with the Pro.
HH have not Disclosed any Info on the matter....YET.
So who really knows
[EDIT] HH announced last week that it is indeed a Prop Issue
and is replacing /Sending out new Props for RadPro owners.Im not even going too bother.the Prop cost $4.50 ,and if it takes a Hour of my life to get a free $4.50 Prop..Forget about it....Ill stick with my New 10x8's hehe...
2. Motor has a different (metal Housing) Which lad people too believe that the motors are bad,coupled with the lower Amps
and very Different climb rates of the Pro vs the Radian.
Org had a Plastic housing and there were a lot of issues with the Bell cracking on the old ones.
3.Push rods are in the Plastic tubes that are partly glued/stapled too the the Fuse.the rods are a very Snug fit.And makes trimming
the Elev nearly imposable.My Rudder was not too bad.But a great fix was take the rods out and sand them down with some
sand paper.I used 120 grit.Some people even used
Graphite Lube(its dry and well not gum up over time with cold/dirt.
I found just by sanding the coating off ,they work great.
I also reamed the inside of the tubing with the threaded side of the Control rod for about 5 mins .scraping the inside a bit,it helped.
So hopefully the Winds settle down to at least 25 km for a Maiden.this weekend (Boxing day seems to be the
nearest day in sight)...Fingers crossed.
All in all With Just a few minor adjustments ans new Prop selection(which i think is normal for most $200 Foam planes.I think its great
and you cant go wrong with this Plane.I don't
think there's a plane out there that is 100% perfect.If you do Please let me know...lol
4. Don't use the crap pieces of tape they supply to keep the Hor Stab in place,I threw it in the garbage just looking at it.
I used some Strips of White Duct tape .Works great and its not moving.
I well update after the Maiden with my Thoughts on the Radian Pro.
Well i just taped up my Battery door with clear packing tape.
While flying in snow and getting snow in that area is a BIG NO NO...
Notice if your flying in snow or coming into contact with Moisture at all.Might be a good idea.Seeing its Winter here now//With no
snow,Just lots of rain.
When the snow do finally come, i plan on flying in it. I am also going too put my RX in a balloon. i need to get some tomorrow.
I taped the sides of the plane about a Inch past the Door seam .Kinda hard too see.
Doing a short Video now.After i went into the Programming of the ESC,I noticed it make a different sound...then the normal "Beep" count of the cells in your Battery. Its more like a Chime sound...
This is my First E Flight ESC..Any ideas? Well post the Video after Up load.[/COLOR]
Well found out what i did,I set the ESC for Cut off at 74% default,If that's default setting form the Factory, Why did mine make the Beep-Beep-Beep chime when i first got it? beats me!!!Well its set too that now...
So it makes that different Chime letting me know its set for 74% Cut off.
Learn a lot by truly reading the Manuel lol..I did read the Steps for Programming the ESC ,but not the WHOLE thing.
So i went tonight and put my RX in a Balloon for safety/Protection of Snow/Wet grass/Moisture getting in the Underside Bay.
Im not sure if its just RC planes electronics,but every other piece of electronics Ive had fried with Moisture.
I also cut back the tape to the 4th hole on Aft side of the Door to let air Circulate. But i don't think ill have any issues with over heating...
It was mentioned by some one awhile back on 1 or the 2 tread discussions about getting a touch more Float out of the Pro.
So i Sub Trimmed my Flaps down 5mm( Im going too test it anyways and see.
LOL i realize i haven't even flown this Bird yet and have done a few things too her. But like any New plane i like testing differeant options.Im sure i could fly it Stock and be happy....
As of now... the WX shows signs of being THE DAY for the Maiden tomorrow... Fingers crossed Boys....
I also decided too replace the Rubber Stops on the Clevis's too some nice
Silicone Fuel tubing.They are 10 more time stronger now...
Well after almost a month of looking at the Pro ,Weather has been crap.
So today i finally got to Fly her.
I really like it.maybe not the best for a 1st Plane.But once you get her dialed too how you like it,its a blast too fly.
Flaps work great.
Alright Decided too go over my Elev Push rod again this evening.I already did the sanding a last week, before my Maiden.Man was it ever stiff in the Tube.It took about 4-5 clicks on the Trim button for any kind of movement ..Thats not good.Extra/unnecessary strain on you Servo Well do no good.
1. Wear your servo out.
2.Drain your Battery
So i still felt like it was a touch to tight still. I would advise anyone too try and trim your ELEV and watch the movement of your Elevator...
You should see movement with 1 click .making trimming your Aircraft Super easy and the way it should be.
Here's a few Pics of the Process.Its pretty straight forward..
You can see the amount i moved the Horn in on the Control Surface.
The Curve at the end was not helping.
Release the Clevis form the horn(take a Mental note of which Hole you have it in).And roughly how many turns it takes too unscrew it off the push rod.
Next Unscrew the tiny screw from the Servo arm.
Pull the rod out towards the nose until its out of the tubing.
Next take some sand paper i used 120 Grit .Use 80 if oyu would like too sand more quicker!! Some elbow grease is needed here.
Along with the replacing the thin rubber clevis's on the Flaps and Ailerons
Seeing im down in this area i decided too replace them back here as well.
I used some standard silicon fuel tubing i had on hand..Works very good and now it really feels secure.
Now when you put your Clevis back on, screw it back on to around the
same number of turns when it was taking off.
I hold the Control surface so its straight and level with the Horizontal stab.you can also use low tach tape.
Now power on your TX and plug your Battery into your ESC..
Make sure your Elev trim is in the center.
Once the Clevis even with the Horn, install it in the Hole you had it in prior.
Now it may not be perfect,so you can unclip your clevis and mark half turns till your Elev is perfect .
If you dont want too Undo your clevis again ,you can use the Sub Trim option and fine tuned the Control surface perfectly...Works like a charm...
As you can see i was a touch high/up.It took me 10 down too make it nice and level.
Now screw your horn back onto your servo
I also received my Graupner 10x8 Props the other day.The with of the shoulder is 6mm.and the Stock park-zone props are 8mm .So you are left with a 2mm gap.Some guys have said its fine and some have said fill it.
You can use some Teflon washers or something similar.
Someone said they use some fuel tubing..
It took me about 20 cuts to get it right.So the Props fall/fold freely but it works...
Make sure oyu put/install the Shims on the TE(Trailing Edge) of the prop
Also the Hole on the Props of the 10x8's are small er and need to be drilled out.
Pretty easy to do,just make sure the drill is perfect and not on a angle.
The forget what the size of the hole is but you can compare it too the Pin that keeps the blades on.
Heres a link too the Props.
Haven't flown her with the new Props yet...It says on the prop Max 7000Rpm...I was 50% Thr and was at 5500-6000rpms...i could not give anymore Thr then 50%.Seeing it wanted too lift out of my hand and i was in my kitchen/work shop lol and everything was blowing everywhere
I think this Prop is the best upgrade for this Plane/Power system...
Here are the Screw dimensions
DX6i set up for 2 switch crow/Spoilers
Take you Y off your Ail servo's
Plug your right Ail plug in your Ail rx port
Plug your Left Ail in AUX1
[NOTE]If when hit your Crow/Ail up switch
and 1 Ail goes up and the other down.
Switch your 2 Ail's plugs on your RX.
Flap Y Harness is in the gear Channel.
Norm 0 0
Land +50 -10
(What this does is when you flip your flap switch
your AIL goes up 50% and your Elev is trimmed down 10%)-So your Up Ail can be change for more Crow/Spoilers by changing the +50.
Aile-> Rudd ACT
Rate L +70% R +70%
SW ELE D/R Trim ACT
(Here is my RUDD-AIL Mix on and off.using my ELE D/R switch)
Rate D 0% U+20%
SW ON Trim ACT
On the Set up page.
In the D/R COMBI option i have AILE set.
So my AIL D/R turns on/off my D/R's
[EDIT] I jsut noticed i have that picture wrong.I have AIL/RUD Mix on the Elev D/R. Not Elev/Rudd
Some Fresh snow Soaring.
Last edited by Eastcoast78; Jul 21, 2011 at 11:38 AM.
haha i know right? Still haven't got this Ship in the Sky's yet...All i need is no rain and Not too much Wind lol...Id say the Maiden with be in some 20km/h Winds...hehe
Should have my 10x8 cam Pros this week or next.By the long range forecast,should be right in time for my Maiden.
i well be flying with the Stock Props just too see how she preforms and if its not too cold that day throw the 10x8 on for the Second Flight..
I had my chinook heli up in early AM ~6am .
for 5 min .
but get this took out my s600 or s006 aloy shark .... and the freakin combo unit died in maid air mid flight ..
just poof .. the 1s 1000mah 15c is fine .. ( hehe wonder if a UM p51 can fly with a 1000mah lipo ? ( 30g - minus standard lipo mass ))
i my try and find 3 cheap brush ESC for heli , and a small HH gyro , convert her up to 2s , then she will be a good 3 CH ..
did you fly today ?
i did taxi test of my LIL' and flew my choppers.
i figure you would be out for a glide .
important note on ballon bagging things ..
going back to my RC boat building .
1 try not to use too big a ballon ,water ballons and those small ones for custome baloon-grams ( in dollar store @ stavager across from wally for those in our town) .
you can place teh whoel servo in the baloon , fres water has never harmed one of my servos if i dried it out after a fly .. but that was my old big 2oz servos .LOL
but small ones will fit into small ballons just streach em over and press fit horn on , before (if) you put hold down screw in .
it will be a tight fit .. and you cannot take it off and replace , if you do use anew ballon .
- learned that on my sub .
NOTE ! place 1 or 2 beads of sillica gell in the ballon ..
as condensation will form on inside ofthe ballon , and usualy on metal pars like board and wires.
the sillica will lock an moisture that gets in away and eat the condensation .
same should be done with RX if possible , but the new RX's have small antene on them .
so could be a PITA to do. LOL
Some clarification may be needed here.
In the photos of your change out from EC3 connectors to the XT60s something seems backwards, either the text or the photo and I can't be sure but...
In North America a power supplying plug must be female and the "sex" is determined by the actual contacts, not the "sex" of the plug or fitting.
So our batteries incorporate a female terminal even though the connector plastic is male.
Think of any power supply in your home such as your AC outlets...all female. Your car lighter plug, headphones...female. Even USB ports. The actual electrical contacts designate the sex.
This is a long established safety issue to prevent easily shorting a power supplying terminal with exposed male terminals.
As I was taught in EE school....the male "plugs into the true source of power...the female" not too hard to remember if you are a dating or married man...
There are exceptions such as car batteries and 9volt batteries.
Thanks to your mod of the elevator rod I sanded the thing down and replaced the hook more inwards, she's as smooth as butter now!
I got my Radian Pro yesterday and can't wait to maiden it. Took me about 2 hrs. to make it flight ready: Centered all clevises and set up the Aurora 9. Piece of cake!
Now waiting for the weather to improve!
made from clips from my cam's video .. of your last flight today .
Sorry for late reply,its been awhile lol
Np dude,that works for me so far...
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