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Dec 26, 2010, 02:43 AM
The way of being is doing.
IMEIV's Avatar
Originally Posted by IBCrazy
You need to coil the wire around a ferrite ring several times.

This is a ferrite ring:

This is how to coil it up:

Thanks. Would you be so kind as to tell me the reasons for doing this ?
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Dec 26, 2010, 02:52 AM
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Bilbobaker's Avatar
Originally Posted by IMEIV
Thanks. Would you be so kind as to tell me the reasons for doing this ?
RF interference due to electro magnetic current resistance and more.

The chokes just suck it up in a gravity well of sorts.

Bet your computer, keyboard and such have an abundance of them, ,mostly hidden.
Dec 26, 2010, 11:50 AM
Registered User
Do I have to coil all wires around the ferrite ring? - or is it ok to coil one wire (one of the three)?
- as many times as possible?
Dec 26, 2010, 12:24 PM
On a holiday?
boopidoo's Avatar
Better to wire all three of them and as many times as possible, yes.
Dec 26, 2010, 10:28 PM
Fly it like you stole it!
Is giving a 5 volt Tx 5.5 volts bad, Im guessing that it's fine but I don't want to burn anything up. Thanks!
Dec 26, 2010, 10:48 PM
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Bilbobaker's Avatar
Originally Posted by SamB125
Is giving a 5 volt Tx 5.5 volts bad, Im guessing that it's fine but I don't want to burn anything up. Thanks!
I'm pretty sure it will be fine but I have heard of really crappy stuff popping at just one volt over the requirement.
Dec 27, 2010, 12:25 AM
Just trying to get a nut.
scrtsqrl's Avatar

List of Things to Have...

Here's a list of parts/supplies/tools that can "support" your FPV Flight OPS.
Dec 30, 2010, 04:49 AM
Registered User
I am going to use one single battery for motor and fpv, so I'll use a "Sander style" LC (right?) filter.. !

my questions:
1000uF or 470uF - what is the best? (maybe it depends on my setup?!)
Can I buy any ferrite ring? - a cheap one will work just fine? - will a big ring filter more noice?
Dec 30, 2010, 12:51 PM
Engineer for Christ
IBCrazy's Avatar
The bigger the ring, the more turns you can get around it. The more turns, the lower the noise.

As for the capacitor, 470uF will work fine. 1000uF is overkill IMO.

Dec 31, 2010, 02:50 AM
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Bilbobaker's Avatar
Alex, could you post some antenna length info for everyone.

Optimal lengths for stock 72 35 2.4 rc rx's etc.

It would be really useful info for many.
Dec 31, 2010, 09:15 AM
Engineer for Christ
IBCrazy's Avatar
Changing antenna lengths does not always improve performance. This is especially true with 2.4GHz. the best way to figure out the optimal antenna length is to attach a wire about twice as long as your antenna to the end of the antenna and do a range test, trim, and range test again. Stop trimming when you don't get any farther away on the range test.

Jan 05, 2011, 08:41 PM
nakelp86's Avatar
Originally Posted by boopidoo
I would like to add KYDEX as a preferred material when building stuff for FPV. It's easy to work with and can be used for a lot on a FPV model, for example a camera enclosure. The material can be cut with a scissor and when heated up with a heat gun or even a candle/lighter will work can be bent very easily. It becomes hard plastic again quite fast so a mount like the one below is easily made in about an hour including cutting drilling and trimming.

I've bought my KYDEX from t=0.06in and 0.08in, the camera enclosure is made with t=0.06in.

I've done some drawings on a pan/tilt-mount as well as a camera enclosure which fits the popular uncased cameras.
could you share some more details how to approach making this camera enclosure?
Do you need some kind of form/ press for this material to make nice little box?
Do you need to cut the corners and fold them or it just forms around some square.
Never worked with this material so any info would help probably not only me.
Thank you
Jan 06, 2011, 05:48 AM
On a holiday?
boopidoo's Avatar
I simply put the cut out plastic part on a vise and use a heat gun until the plastic bends and gets soft. After that I use something flat, like a metal ruler, and push along the edge so the corner gets as small bend radius as possible until the plastic cools and hardens. This takes seconds so you have to be quick, but if you're not happy with the results you just heat it up again and redo the process.

You can also use a mold/plug and shape KYDEX in the oven (this is how knife/gun holsters are usually made) but I find this method simpler and quicker.

I use CA glue which is the only glue I've found to really work on KYDEX. It's a "fat" plastic so epoxy and heat-glue doesn't work. I sand the bonding surfaces and make sure they are nice and smooth without any gaps and press for a few seconds after CA is applied. This is usually enough for a good bond. None of my KYDEX enclosures have opened up unless I open them myself using a knife or equivalent.
Last edited by boopidoo; Jan 06, 2011 at 05:53 AM.
Jan 09, 2011, 07:53 PM
Registered User
"Another solution is a filter. You can filter the signal by passing it through a recorder such as the AIPtek MPVR. You can also pass it through a coaxial to RCA converter box. These generate an artificial sync signal that keeps the monitor going through static."

Can you shows a setup for coaxial to RCA converter box
Jan 09, 2011, 07:59 PM
Registered User
Can you also share some experience about camera - transmitter interference.

I suspect my system is subject to camera - transmitter interference result in short range.
900mhz, 500mw, stock antenna on Tx, Patch on Rx, only about 100 meter+. I ordered the meganet ring from DPCAV on route, this is the only thing I don't have according to the "white paper for EMI/RFI noise" or the "how to be successful"

Getting so down cannot get "crispy clear signal 1km up" as many people easily get.

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