How to FPV: Newbies thread - New Multirotor tuning video - Page 286 - RC Groups
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Mar 08, 2012, 10:54 AM
Registered User
that radio is about 15 to 18 years old. the computer programming then was alot harder to understand than it is now and unless your techno savy they have to be sent in to Futaba to have the modes switched. even though I'm a Futaba supporter you might want to look at JR and Hitec as they made some really good 72mhz radios with the modules in the back. I would recomend a radio that has the modules as this allows you to change from UHF,73mhz and spectrum just by purchasing a module.

Originally Posted by jwbalder
Hello all!

I started to read this very informative thread and I am now on page 102. It is quite hard. I am used to fly 2.4 ghz but for this part of the hobby I want to use 72 mhz because it is better in the environment I will be flying. Because I don't want to buy everything at the same time I will start with the transmitter for RC. In the near future I will take the exam to get HAM license. But now about the transmitter: I am just to fly with mode 1 (so throttle and aileron on the right stick) but since it is not that easy to find a 72 mhz transmitter from futaba in the Netherlands I will have to buy it on ebay. The most transmitter are mode 2. Is it easy to change the transmitter from mode 2 to mode 1?

And is this transmitter good for me?

Thanks for all helping and I will continue reading!

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Mar 08, 2012, 12:37 PM
FPV in Hawaii
iskess's Avatar
Originally Posted by IBCrazy
The Vee/patch has 8db more gain than a BluBeam combination. Comparing the two is like comparing a pick-up truck to a tractor trailer. If you want an accurate comparision, go with a cloverleaf/Crosshair or a cloverleaf/helical combination and compare to the Vee/patch as these will have similar gain numbers.

Also, I am guessing you have no tuning equipment. You antennas are hand made, so errors in construction could be providing a less than proper match (although they do look pretty good). I ususally state that the BluBeams are good for 1-2 miles in any direction. You are testing at 3 miles which is outside the usable range of the antenna system.

You need to select your antennas by what goals you intend to achieve. You want distance, go with a Vee/patch or cloverleaf/helical. If you want to fly around yourself without worrying about aiming your antenna, use the cloverleaf/skew wheel combination.

Thank you for your fast response Alex,
Will the Vee have more drop outs at shorter range than the BluBeam?
Can you answer the other part of my question regarding antenna placement on a Twinstar?
Mar 08, 2012, 01:15 PM
Engineer for Christ
IBCrazy's Avatar
The vee will have more video drop outs than a cloverleaf ASSUMING you have a circularly polarized antenna on the RX. Don't sweat the placement. Right side up or upside down is fine out on the wing.

Mar 08, 2012, 01:17 PM
fly by night
BCSaltchucker's Avatar
Originally Posted by chicken sashimi
Thanks for the ham info BCSalt.

Now i'm really stuck here guys.
All the research i've done says to fear Spektrum. I currently have 600mw 5.8 vtx and DX6i, but haven't maidened it yet.. just tested in my workshop.

I just plan on parkflying (less than 400m distance) while i get used to video piloting, but all the spektrum fear mongering is really taking its toll on my nerves Re: first flight.

From what I gather, my options are:
-Go 72mhz, (i.e. Futaba 9c tx and Corona RP8D1 rx's) = probably around 200 or $250, also, everyone loves the range, but isn't 72 susceptible to interferences from other 72mhz transmissions? UHF better?
-wifi booster mod for my already owned DX6i = about $50 + modding time. success may vary?
-Go UHF (Can i do this with my DX6i? Do i even want to?) = $200? also, i'm not sure about the complexities involved here...are these easy to set up or am I in for a complicated ordeal?

Honestly, I just want to go fly i'm tired of sweating this stuff and i'm already pretty well invested in this.. but I don't want to lose my bird all because I risked it (sounds like a serious risk) with my dx6i.

Has ANYONE had success with their dx6i+5.8mw combo within 800m range? At what point do I stop throwing money at the problems and just enjoy the game?

I would just get a spotter and do a maiden asap, with the 2.4 radio. Then you will start learning a lot about what is going to work for you and what isn't. Take off LOS and get up high enough, then put on the goggles and enjoy it!

Well I feel unqualified to talk about 72MHz. I have one 72 radio, but I do not use it, but might decide to use it soon on one of my mothballed FPV planes. Remember 72 MHz is not freq-hopping, but so few ppl use it that the fixed freq might not be a problem as long as you're not near an oldie RC field. My Spektrum and DragonlinkUHF are freq hopping.

I do use my DX6i a LOT for FPV. Never had a dropout, fly up to 750m with it regularly - with a AR6200+sat receiver. But I do have RTH when flying that far (never needed it yet). Also use Orange Rx a lot for within 500m. Will be flying today with DX6i+5.8 and with my UHF+1.3 in 2 planes.

I would not transform a DX6i to UHF - just keep it DSM2 for all your other planes that you aren't going med-long range FPV with. The DX6i and DX8 is such a nice radio as OEM, and is a pita to adapt as a long term FPV radio, IMHO. Well maybe it would be great with a RF amplifier - have heard good things about that, but never tried it. Also the DX6i is too short on channels and switches for expanding your FPV experience. Eg with my plane that has Eagle Tree - the OSD needs 2 channels ideally for changing settings - with a 4 channel plane, that leaves no channels left for: pan/tilt, lights, lost plane buzzer, flaps, etc.

I spent about $360 putting a Turnigy9x + dragonlink UHF together. Assembling this kit takes all of 2 minutes. Unbelievable range, lots of channels (up to 12 via ppm), ready for RSSI-out-to-OSD, and a fairly capable radio to program with. I also bought AIO goggles and just started using the head tracking through the 9x - plug and play, nice - not going to be so easy with a DX8. The 9x may be out of stock at HK, but can usually find it somewhere else under the various chinese brands. I like the 9x so much, I bought a 2nd one - will use for buddy box, DSMX module, FRSKy module, custom firmware, etc.
Last edited by BCSaltchucker; Mar 08, 2012 at 01:22 PM.
Mar 08, 2012, 01:29 PM
WOT happened?
chicken sashimi's Avatar
That's a lot of good info BCSalt... Sounds like the Turnigy9x might be the best way to futureproof my FPV endeavours. Since i've got the dominators, i'll probably want the pan-tilt set-up eventually. and if i can add the dragonlink UHF that easily, all for less than $400.. sounds like a sweet deal!

Seems the reviews on the 9x are hit and miss.. but i guess for $57, you can't really expect too much. Have you already set up a pan-tilt using the 9x? did you have to buy all new recievers when you got your 9x, or will it work with your ar6200?

Thanks so much for the insight.
Mar 08, 2012, 01:37 PM
fly by night
BCSaltchucker's Avatar
Originally Posted by fltekdiver
OSD : Possibly Eagle Tree down the road

Or maybe a FY-21AP auto pilot?

Also like to order a GPS sensor, and battery voltage
OK, best if you spend some time researching all the OSD choices - there are a LOT of them. Most common packages come with GPS and power sensor. Just keep in mind whether you want to go to stabilization and/or return to home now or in the future. I am disappointed with my Dragon OSD - does not easily upgrade to integrated stabilization (does work with FY21, just no OSD info) and the display is faint and harder to read in the goggles. Take a good look at the videos of the various OSD in flight and decide what you like - though it will be when you're flying that you'll really know.

FWIW I find the Feiyu OSD very ugly to look at, and the mounting procedure for the IMU takes some extra work and space. The Guardian unit for Eagle Tree is tiny and quick to install, and costs only 60 bucks or so. Have had bad luck with GPS altitude calc, so I bought barometers also.

But I sometimes fly with the $9 HK-SS OSD, and it is great for familiar parks where I can navigate by VFR. Gives voltages and a timer - a great item to start with.
Mar 08, 2012, 02:59 PM
Registered User

Before I jump in!

I live in North East PA and was about to pull the trigger in the HK 900mhz 800mW. FPV equiptment. Then I saw IBCrazy's video saying if you have a lot of Cell phone coverage this might be a problem. Then I just downloaded ATTF's podcast on FPV and one guy use 900mhz but I don't think he lives in a crowded area like the Northeast.

Is there anyone that lives in this area and uses the 900mhz? Do or did you have any problems?

5.8g is an option but would have to wait until I can get additional funding.

Also the debate on getting a HAM license, I have decided to get one. For $15 it is a drop in the bucket for the hobby and it protects you from difficult cops. I love the "Back to the future" analogy.

Mar 08, 2012, 03:48 PM
So I'M meant to be in control?
Colonel Blink's Avatar
Originally Posted by Colonel Blink
Well, this morning I checked the TV inputs by playing a portable DVD player via some home made leads. Positive result!....I'll stick some RCAs directly onto the cam wires & my (homemade) microphone to do a final check...
Funny thing, this evening as soon as I plugged the video jack into the DVD player (Vtx/Vrx connected), along with a good picture there was squealing; plugging the audio jack into the DVD player reduced it but did not remove it. I could still hear the DVD audio, but the squealing wasnt there last night! I tried turning off my Wifi in case that was having an effect but no. Just before I had to pack up, I cycled the Rx through the channels - still squealing when I got back to 9. Cycled the Tx through the channels and when I got back to 9 the squealing had stopped.

Any ideas anyone?

BTW, my homemade electret mike seems to work (difficult to tell the audio quality when you're talking into it and trying to hear it from the TV!); but I also confirmed that the camera is dead.

Next stage is to make up another set of wiring to get the airframe element of the kit running off a 3S lipo.....
Last edited by Colonel Blink; Mar 08, 2012 at 04:39 PM.
Mar 08, 2012, 03:50 PM
Registered User
Cid156's Avatar
Do you know if this goggles are ok ?

I know that the resolution is low but the price is nice... except the shipping cost to Switzerland :/
Mar 08, 2012, 05:15 PM
Registered User
wrath90210's Avatar
Hey everyone!
Can a probe the knowledge of the community?
I have a Vtx but I'm still waiting on the my camera. I want to test the servos in my plane to make sure they aren't jittery. Can you run a Vtx without the camera? My intuition tells me yes, but I don't feel like frying anything today

EDIT: I also am planning to use a long wire to power the video system from a separate 3s. Would a long power supply wire cause any problems? I've twisted all of my wires if that helps.
Last edited by wrath90210; Mar 08, 2012 at 08:11 PM. Reason: add another question
Mar 08, 2012, 05:45 PM
Registered User
hey guys, I want to go from a 2 battery setup to a 1 battery setup. If I just add a JST connector to my main flight battery, this will give me power for the camera as well. My ESC has a built in BEC but I'm wondering what will happen once my battery runs out??? Obviously I'll lose power to the motor, but I'll have power for the control surfaces... what about the camera though???? Will the built in BEC leave enough power in the pack to power the servos AND the camera??
Mar 08, 2012, 05:49 PM
Registered User
Are there any reasonably priced COG stands available that can be purchased online?

Mar 08, 2012, 06:56 PM
Registered User

Camera cable

Hey guys,

I had the camera cable came out from the molex connector (at least I think that's how it's called). Is there anything I can do, or should I just order a new cable? I tried soldering it, but it's not working.

Mar 08, 2012, 07:07 PM
FPV Browncoat
prelator's Avatar
With a power cable, I wouldn't risk soldering it. On mine the audio wire came loose, and since it wasn't critical I just soldered it back to the metal part still in the connector. It came loose several other times and had an intermittent connection for a while before I finally got it on solid. Since I don't need audio to fly it didn't matter if it came out again, but if it was anything other than the audio wire I wouldn't have risked it.
Mar 08, 2012, 07:29 PM
Registered User
Originally Posted by prelator
With a power cable, I wouldn't risk soldering it. On mine the audio wire came loose, and since it wasn't critical I just soldered it back to the metal part still in the connector. It came loose several other times and had an intermittent connection for a while before I finally got it on solid. Since I don't need audio to fly it didn't matter if it came out again, but if it was anything other than the audio wire I wouldn't have risked it.
Thanks. I managed to solder it and it works, but it's ugly. I ordered a new one already. I guess I can use this to test the system giving people rides until the new one comes.

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