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Dec 13, 2010, 12:19 AM
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mistairjoe's Avatar
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Looking for Macchi M 33 plans or drawings


Again i am in search for some decent drawings or plans for a Macchi M33.Thanks Joe
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Dec 13, 2010, 12:49 PM
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I'm sure you are aware of the UK plan at Model-Plans UK. I'd take a screen capture, enlarge the image and go from there. It's really not bad, once you clean them up a bit:
http://www.model-plans.co.uk/astral/Macchi%20M33.htm

I don't know how to contact this guy, but I'd love to get this plan:
http://plumpe.home.mindspring.com/mair.html



There's not much out there on this plane, as I looked quite a bit when I scratch built mine, bashing a GWS ME262 kit and ME109 wing. I actually ended up with a good flyer, but still need to get it off water. Maybe the water rudder added will help with control.
Bill
Dec 13, 2010, 06:17 PM
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I found him.His name is David Plumpe and he is a Col. Hurst Bowers fan of Flyline fame.He promised to send me a three view.
Dec 14, 2010, 09:19 AM
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Hi Joe. Here is the three view. About three years ago I built all foam 50” version from this three view. I wish I built 60” to reduce wing loading. The landing speed had to be kept high, other vice it would tip stall.
Dec 14, 2010, 10:55 AM
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Here's the 3-view I offered mistairjoe. It's essentially a drawing I put together on the way to doing my construction plans.

Laddie - Could you offer your 3view in a bit higher resolution so we can see details better? Any idea of the source?

- Dave Plumpe
Dec 14, 2010, 01:02 PM
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Dave, I do not know how to get better resolution. When I click on the thumbnail and the drawing goes to full size, I get good resolution. As far source goes, I do not know in which French magazine it was. Sorry.
Dec 14, 2010, 02:11 PM
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Laddie -

The image I get when I click on your 3-view thumbnail is too fuzzy to read most of the dimensions. If the scan you have on your computer is significantly better, the problem is likely that your scan is larger than 1024 pixels, RCGroups limits JPG images to a maximum of 1024 pixels and they arbitrarily downsized your scan to that. If that's the case, you could attach your original to an email to me at [email protected] and I'll convert it to a PDF and repost it.

-Dave Plumpe
Last edited by DPlumpe; Jan 08, 2012 at 09:34 AM. Reason: update email
Dec 14, 2010, 07:25 PM
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Laddie is there anything in your library you don't have on file.That's great. it will give me enough to go on. Thanks, Dave thanks for your help also.Joe
Dec 15, 2010, 02:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LADDIE
Hi Joe. Here is the three view. About three years ago I built all foam 50” version from this three view. I wish I built 60” to reduce wing loading. The landing speed had to be kept high, other vice it would tip stall.
Nice looking foam build. I wish I had built my foam version at 50", and not 32"
I had the motor quit due to water on a landing approach, and did not respond quickly enough to dive to pick up speed. How it did not tip stall was beyond me. It literally plopped down dead level into the water from maybe 30 feet, with no damage. Maybe it was just one of those "stars properly aligned" luck events.
One thing I know is that I probably couldn't put mine into a turn, as shallow as the turn in your photo. The first turn reasonably tight turn scared the heck out of me, as I was nearing the tall treed shoreline. I quickly discovered that the plane really needs to be banked into a turn with deliberation, if you want any kind of turn out of it. Once onto it, it really is a fun plane to fly though. I have a theory that the high tower motor location tries to push it out of a turn.
I wonder if you have experienced this also.
Dec 15, 2010, 08:09 AM
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As I remember, my model was flying fine when flown relatively fast. I did not experienced any difficulty turning. The landings were unpredictable. Most of the time the model would land nicely. It depended on several factors, like speed, the wind direction and if approach is in the straight line or I was turning close to the water surface because obstacles. Other problem I had with the model was the water entering radio compartment. Specially if the water surface was choppy. No amount of Vaseline in the saddle area would seal it completely. I placed piece of sponge foam to the bottom of the fuselage so it would pick up small amount of water. I suspended the receiver so if wasn’t touching sides or the bottom. Even that did not help. On one flight, just after takeoff the model rolled over and hit the water hard. That was end of my Macchi.
I am enclosing photos, one showing how close the bottom of the wing is to the relatively smooth water surface and other is showing separation line between the fuselage and the wing/engine nacelle.
Dec 15, 2010, 09:04 AM
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Hi Laddie.Nice attempt on the M 33. I see you made the motor pod and wing one unit.Wires must have been pretty thin to get them down into the hull through the pod struts.I still think that along the M51 it is one of the prettiest racers made. Joe
Dec 15, 2010, 09:23 AM
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Laddie sent me his higher resolution 3-view. Here it is cleaned up and put in PDF format. Thanks, Laddie!
-Dave P.
Dec 15, 2010, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistairjoe
Wires must have been pretty thin to get them down into the hull through the pod struts.
Yes that's lots of fun, running the wires through small struts. I ran them through aluminum tubing at my small scale, and still managed 18ga. Silicone wire insulation loves to nick and tear also, which always sparks fear (sometimes literally) in my mind, when using this practice. I worked the metal at the tube ends for a good flare, to ensure that no wire chafing happens, but you still worry.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LADDIE
As I remember, my model was flying fine when flown relatively fast. I did not experienced any difficulty turning. The landings were unpredictable. Most of the time the model would land nicely. It depended on several factors, like speed, the wind direction and if approach is in the straight line or I was turning close to the water surface because obstacles. Other problem I had with the model was the water entering radio compartment. Specially if the water surface was choppy. No amount of Vaseline in the saddle area would seal it completely. I placed piece of sponge foam to the bottom of the fuselage so it would pick up small amount of water. I suspended the receiver so if wasn’t touching sides or the bottom. Even that did not help. On one flight, just after takeoff the model rolled over and hit the water hard. That was end of my Macchi.
I am enclosing photos, one showing how close the bottom of the wing is to the relatively smooth water surface and other is showing separation line between the fuselage and the wing/engine nacelle.
I can relate to the sealing issues. My battery compartment is in front, and is completely sealed (in theory) from the inner fuse. I have a foam tape sealed receiver access hatch, which is the cocpit base under the pilot. Irregardless, water gets in there somehow. The ESC out on landing happened due to getting wet. Fortunately it did not happen further away, or I would have been doing a lot of rowing that day. The choppy water and a bit of side-side balance issues caused me to hand toss it. I learned that you do not use full throttle, and throw a bit upward. I was already anticipating the nose down, but not as much as it was at high power, thus down into the water. Of course since I found no damage, I had to try again, this time getting it, but with water in the receiver area.
Bill
Last edited by 1post; Dec 15, 2010 at 01:29 PM.
Dec 25, 2010, 08:53 AM
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Hi,

I own the Kyosho-Macchi M.33, which is a fine flyer.
I ran solid copper cable used for in-wall-installation inside the glassfibre-struts. Works fine. I un-isolated it and re-isolated one wire with heat-shrink. Much thinner than the original PVC-isolation.

Sealing such a hatch is nearly impossible, so I use to install all hardware away from water: the RX at the top of the hull behind the wing, Servos an inch above the bottom, the ESC is completely sealed with silicone and installed inside the engine nacelle.
I found the Kyosho model flieas from the board, no bad habits here. Just the landings must be right, but a friend and me installed twice the power recommended by the manual, and very big batteries. The models perform superbly with this power!
Here are some shots taken this year from mine (blue/white) and my flying buddies Alex.
Am currently building a Savoia S.21 Schneider racer...

Regards,
Kuni
Dec 25, 2010, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuni
Hi,

I own the Kyosho-Macchi M.33, which is a fine flyer.
I ran solid copper cable used for in-wall-installation inside the glassfibre-struts. Works fine. I un-isolated it and re-isolated one wire with heat-shrink. Much thinner than the original PVC-isolation.

Sealing such a hatch is nearly impossible, so I use to install all hardware away from water: the RX at the top of the hull behind the wing, Servos an inch above the bottom, the ESC is completely sealed with silicone and installed inside the engine nacelle.
I found the Kyosho model flies from the board, no bad habits here. Just the landings must be right, but a friend and me installed twice the power recommended by the manual, and very big batteries. The models perform superbly with this power!
Here are some shots taken this year from mine (blue/white) and my flying buddies Alex.
Am currently building a Savoia S.21 Schneider racer...

Regards,
Kuni
Hello Kuni and Merry XMas if you celebrate it. Your Kyosho Macchi had just been released when I build mine, and was a factor in motivating me to build the plane. Beautiful ARF, and it looks as if you and your flying buddy have done a good job of personalizing your planes.
Your wiring gives me ideas. I ran both battery wires in a single aluminum oval shape tube, and it was a tight fit. I flared the ends of the tubing, as silicon wire insulation would otherwise easily be cut on the tubing end. Your solid copper wire has made me think that I could have ran 1 wire per strut. In that case, there is no issue if a single wire shorts against the metal strut.

The hatch sealing is nearly impossible, so I decided to seal the compartment 100% from the remainder of the plane, or so I thought. Water still got inside. After flying, I sealed the plastic end of the battery compartment to the foam with yet more epoxy. It is amazing how water finds the smallest holes though.


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