Canterbury J # 529 Build - RC Groups
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Dec 12, 2010, 04:47 PM
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Ed Crowell's Avatar
Discussion

Canterbury J # 529 Build


I received my Canterbury J sail boat a few days ago and have started to build it. For the people who are not familiar with this boat it is 48 inches long and weight at least 14 lbs and 5 oz. It is sanctioned by the AMYA as a racing class boat, mostly on the east coast. For further information see the following web site{ http://www.pmycsail.com/catalog_1.html }.

I started by building a construction stand made of MDF, not a good choice but if your careful it will work OK. The lead keel is attached by two stainless steel screws. I sanded the bottom of the hull and the top of the lead keel with 80 grit sand paper. I made sure the lead keel and hull lined up before installing it. I then screwed the lead keel to the hull but left a gap of 3/4 inch which I then applied Bondo into the gap on both sides then finished screwing the keel to the hull, then wipe off the excess bondo that squeezed out.

Ed
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Dec 12, 2010, 08:10 PM
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Ed Crowell's Avatar
I started this thread as a build log but forgot to change so it ended up as a Discussion.

Any way to change It?

Ed
Dec 12, 2010, 11:01 PM
Taking care of the pond.
MILLERTIME's Avatar
Maybe we should discuss this.

Looking good Ed, I'm watching this build.
Dec 12, 2010, 11:40 PM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
Looking forward to watching you get this one built Ed. Sailed with you once out at Fairmount Park and your EC12 was absolutely BEAUTIFUL!!! Can only imagine how nice this one will be.
Dec 14, 2010, 01:03 PM
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Ed Crowell's Avatar
I used a rasp to fair the lead keel to the hull, using 2 layers of blue tape to use as a guide. Later I used bondo to fill in the gaps and low spots between the hull and the Keel, then sprayed it with a light coat of primer. It needs some minor touch up but I will deal with that when I get ready to paint it.

So far the weight of the boat with the keel attached is 10lbs 5 1/3 oz.

The minimum weight allowed per class rules is 14lbs 5oz which is what I am shooting for.

Ed
Last edited by Ed Crowell; Dec 14, 2010 at 09:06 PM.
Dec 14, 2010, 06:07 PM
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This afternoon I put the boat in the tub to check and see how level the shear is on the hull. The starboard side was a little higher so I sanded it down down to match the port side. This should give me a level deck once I install it.

Ed
Dec 15, 2010, 05:19 AM
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This is going to be great. I obtained a Canterbury J "kit" directly from New Zealand, and am now in the process of putting it all together.

My winch mechanism is completed and, yes, the whole thing can be serviced and removed from the main hatch. Obvious details to you guys, but not as immediately obvious to a beginner like me. I've only built one sailboat before, a Metcalf 'Moonbeam" purchased from Britain.

I'll be watching your build with great interest and hope to pick up lots of good information that I can apply to mine.
Dec 15, 2010, 09:02 AM
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Ed Crowell's Avatar
Forbes,

What are you using for the winch mechanism? I will probably use a digital servo with a double arm.

Ed
Dec 15, 2010, 03:02 PM
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seefest's Avatar
Beautiful boat. Makes me want to order a kit!! Did you order the deck beams with the kit? Do the class rules book come with the kit? Does it come with plans/rig/deck dimensions? I know, lots of questions.
Dec 15, 2010, 04:54 PM
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Ed Crowell's Avatar
seefest,

I ordered the Hull, Lead Keel, Rudder, Wood beam Kit, and Bumper for a cost of $290 including shipping.

The kit comes with a booklet that has the class rules and drawings and written instructions for building. You have to purchase the servos, sails, mast, booms, wood for the deck and deck hardware. Hans Berger the builder of the hull is very good at answering emails.

I plan on documenting all the construction and all the parts cost and suppliers as I go.

Ed
Dec 15, 2010, 05:06 PM
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Ed Crowell's Avatar
Last night I installed the shear planks. The plans suggest you use a strip of masonite on the outside of the hull to even out the pressure when clamping the hull and beams together, or you will end up with ripples on the outside of the hull. I thought I had enough clamps so I did not use the masonite; well I ended up with some shallow ripples on the top edge of the hull. But they are very shallow and may sand out or may need a very thin coat of bondo.

Moral of the story Read the instructions and Follow the instructions.

Ed
Dec 15, 2010, 05:39 PM
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obses4sail's Avatar
you're catching up, I will have to put some more time in on Second Wind so I can start a 48"
Dec 15, 2010, 08:08 PM
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My sailwinch is a RMG from Australia. I set it up with a pole to the bow for a return pulley and a jib slot adjuster servo. It seems to work OK on the bench, and I hope that it will work as well in practice. here's a couple of photos. Criticisms are welcome, its easier to fix now than during sailing season.

Ian
Dec 15, 2010, 09:55 PM
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Looking very nice...
Dec 15, 2010, 10:58 PM
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Ed Crowell's Avatar
Forbes,

Looks like you have it set up very nice; I really like the way you set up the rudder servo. Are you going to have a hatch over the rudder servo for access? What is the (ounce-inch) of torque on your rudder servo? I am trying to find out what is required for the rudder servo.

Ed


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