Dynam Sky Trainer Cessna 182 - Page 4 - RC Groups
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Jan 15, 2011, 02:07 PM
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See my post #31 above concerning reinforcing the front gear. I've had one hard landing so far and it held up well. I also epoxied the compression strut at full extension. It's spring is far too stiff to be useful unless really slammed hard - something I hope not to do.
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Jan 15, 2011, 02:38 PM
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So your saying just get rid of the "shock asorber" (lol) altogether?

it also seems that the plastic plate is loose on the inside. Its been that way since i put it together, but now it seems to be more of an issue. Should i just try and epoxy the plastic plate back in place?

Also, these batts will work fine right?

Sorry about all the questions...

Jan 15, 2011, 08:55 PM
Registered User
A couple of other Dynam planes I have use the same compression strut for the front gear and I haven't been able to get any of them to work well - they are just too fragile and have to much rotational play - the control horn on top doesn't steer the wheel accurately.

I finally gave up and just worked epoxy into the area between the plastic outer sleeve and the steel rod, at the bottom. This locks the unit together and everything turns together: but you give up the compression feature. Maybe you can devise a better solution.

The Blue lipo you linked should work well.

Let us know what you come up with.
Jan 15, 2011, 09:20 PM
Registered User
Thanks for the quick reply.

Sounds good, I have something in mind that might work well, ill try it out and post pics up if it does.

But as for the plastic plate that the front landing gear is mounted to, whats the best way to secure it back onto the fuselage? just epoxy it back?

EDIT: Also, i had 1 rough landing where (my mistake) i crashed into a snowbank, and now when you grip the propellor you can nudge the motor back and forth a little. Do i need a new motor? (its the actual can sliding back and forth on the shaft of the motor,not the mount)
Last edited by mq1991; Jan 15, 2011 at 10:42 PM.
Jan 16, 2011, 10:10 AM
Registered User
If the can is sliding on the shaft you should just tighten the grub screw on the front of the can near the shaft. It requires a small, metric, hex key. If the can and shaft are moving, it's possible that the circlip on the back of the motor shaft has come off.

The gear plates can be epoxied back into the foam with very good results. Epoxy is much stronger than the slightly flexible glue the factory uses and will result in a nice, firm mount - if not too much of the foam around the mount is destroyed.
Jan 16, 2011, 03:12 PM
Registered User
Thanks! Im just having problems getting the cowl off to get to the motor. lol

Alrighty, yeah the foam isnt destroyed at all thankfully, it just separated. I cant seem to find replacement parts either :/ I dont need any yet, but accidents happen.
Jan 17, 2011, 08:49 AM
Blade mSR freak
hydro_pyro's Avatar
You can probably dribble some Zippo lighter fluid behind the cowl and wait a few minutes-- This should soften the two-sided tape adhesive without harming the EPP foam.

After doing the build this weekend, here's dome things to watch out for:

One of the black plastic "tee" inserts at the tail had an over-sized hole-- Not stripped, but over-sized. The screw fell right into it! Useless. I created some hole threads with CA to fix the issue.

The black plastic upper wing strut mount anchors may be a trouble spot, as they get pulled upon during flight. I added some of the included cement around and under the edge of the inserts to strengthen them.

The Chinese cement solvent flash gives you a wicked headache!

The half-baked nav lights abortion in the wings involves some hollow channels on the underside of the wings that have EPP filler panels flush-pressed into them, probably with two-sided tape behind them. Unfortunately, some of these channels result in visible weaknesses in the wing, as the gap opens and closes with some force applied to the wing. Again, I used some more of the included cement in these gaps to bond the insert to he sides of the channels for added strength. The morning after doing this, I noticed much less flex when I lift the plane by its wing tips.

The flaps installation involves adding the included drop hinges. After installing, the tips of the mounts may poke through and need trimming before re-installing the flaps on the wing. The pushrods are included, but servos are not. I will also need to get some adjustable quick-connects to hook up the pushrods to the servos.
Last edited by hydro_pyro; Jan 17, 2011 at 12:59 PM.
Jan 17, 2011, 09:17 AM
Registered User
Thanks Hydro! thats exactly what i was looking for. I have some small neodymium magnets that im gonna use to attach that cowl from now on.

Yeah i didnt really like the smell of that cement.... I probably have cancer now... lol

Is it possible to install the flaps after ive already glued the wing together?
Jan 17, 2011, 10:45 AM
Blade mSR freak
hydro_pyro's Avatar
I was also thinking of magnets or some kinf of pins to hold the cowl on.

You will need to "fish"another set of servo wires through the wing passages to add flaps. It's a little tougher if the wing is already assembled, but possible.

It would be tough to install the pushrods once the drop hinges are installed.
Jan 17, 2011, 10:57 AM
Registered User
im going to use one of these, not sure what size i should get though.


alrighty, Im gonna get some of those $3 servos off of hobbypartz and some extensions and put them on the flaps and see how they do.
Jan 17, 2011, 12:46 PM
Blade mSR freak
hydro_pyro's Avatar
The trick is to put the magnets behind a thin piece of plastic to limit force by keeping the mags from sticking metal-on-metal (like they did with the battery compartment)
Jan 18, 2011, 01:18 PM
Blade mSR freak
hydro_pyro's Avatar
I found the front landing strut to be too soft to serve any real purpose. I tested it by tilting the model slightly downward and dropping it onto its nose from 3" high to simulate an early flare and stall condition. I can feel the strut instantly compress to its limits with a "bang."

I was not able to separate the strut to upgrade the spring, so I removed the elbow, slid the rod out and added an additional super-stiff short spring below the strut. This keeps the strut rigid until it's needed in a hard landing. It also limits travel slightly. (I ground the tip of the nose gear shaft shorter to clear the Lipo pack, so this helps.) It takes a lot of force to compress the strut now. I lubed the shaft with Alisyn Silicone/Teflon grease.

My nose gear steering pushrod works a lot better now that it's not on upside-down.
Last edited by hydro_pyro; Jan 18, 2011 at 08:12 PM.
Jan 18, 2011, 08:08 PM
Registered User
beautiful looking plane...i think i will name my next dog Cessna!
Jan 18, 2011, 10:46 PM
Registered User
Exactly, i found some small plastic caps that the magnets fit perfectly into, and it holds the cowl on quite tightly! but i can still easily remove it to service the motor/speed controller.

Haha yeah i was also looking for a stiffer spring alternative, but couldnt find anything suitable :/ what are you using?

Does your pushrod come from the bottom up? or from the top down?
Jan 18, 2011, 10:58 PM
Registered User

haha yup it draws quite the crowd even when i feel like im flying in a secluded area, people seem to pop up out of nowhere. haha

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