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Jan 17, 2011, 04:38 AM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Thread OP

The AI can stand up!


While the fuselage was upside down fitting the UC, I built the tailskid. Inevitably, it was more complex than it seemed at first. Pete's plan doesn't detail the later versions faired-in mechanism and neither do any of my 3-views. A couple of photos showed it fairly well and the fairing may hold a spring or bungee arrangement as the rear fuselage contains the internal cables for the tail. In any event, the skid is of forged alloy and I made mine of 3/32 aluminium from an old landing gear strut. The fairing is of 3 layers of 3/32" bass cut from scraps left over from a Manzano kit. (I dont throw anything away...) Bits of brass tube, wire and small scews hold it together.

The skid isn't sprung - it fits into the same slot as Pete's original design.

Curiously, most exposed metalwork on the original is painted a rather bright blue - later

Pat
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Jan 17, 2011, 05:53 AM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Thread OP
There are many great photos of my target aircraft on the net - here are a couple that show the skid. There always seems to be clods of grass and turf hanging off it when airborne! - I left a soleplate off the skid bottom for that reason..

Pat
Jan 18, 2011, 06:39 AM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Thread OP

Cowl Stuff..


I had pondered all sorts of cowl methods from Pete's laminated balsa and ply job as shown on the plan, a spun metal one but my lathe is too small, to a modified aluminium saucepan if I could find the right diameter. I decided on a glass fibre one - easy to make, plenty of clearance for a dummy motor and reasonably strong.

Not having any suitable foam, the local grocery store was raided and some 7" discs cut from a foam vegetable box. The discs were laminated using water-based contact adhesive and stuck to an mdf backplate to turn on the lathe. Initial shaping was done with a wood rasp as the blank was too big for the lathe. Coarse sandpaper and a template traced from the plan got a final shape/size - about 1.5mm smaller than the final size.

I am hoping for about 4-5 layers of 3/4 oz cloth and epoxy resin over a cling-film covered foam master. I hope it works!

Pat
Jan 18, 2011, 07:17 AM
What's 3D?
trumps's Avatar
looking forward to your glass cowl layup Pat, got to say that undercart looks beautiful, those ali wheel covers really do look the part as does the rear skid. Are you going to model a scale clod of dirt and grass as per the ones you mentioned were so prominent on the full size A1

Cheers
Craig
Jan 20, 2011, 12:58 AM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Thread OP

Cowl - part II


Craig - I doubt I'll need dummy grass on the skid - my field will provide the real thing

Before applying glass cloth and epoxy resin to the cowl mould, it was covered in kitchen film to allow release without destroying the foam and a 1.32 ply band was wrapped around the base (just as Pete's plan shows). I also added a 1.32 ply ring inside the front opening. This is polished aluminium on the original and is a fairly fragile area on the model.

Six layers of 3/4 oz cloth were applied in two sessions with a rough sanding in between. When the second lot had 'gone off', I eased the cowl off the master and now I will give it 24 hours to cure completely. I may add some internal cloth for extra strength.

There are a few pits but some spray putty and a good sanding should get it looking right.

Pat
Jan 20, 2011, 10:24 AM
Senile Member
Lnagel's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by maltone
Six layers of 3/4 oz cloth were applied in two sessions with a rough sanding in between.
Is that six layers in each session for a total of 12 layers, or three layers in each session with a total of six layers? Also, is a layer made up of a single square sheet draped over the form, or do you apply the layers in narrow strips of cloth?

Great looking cowl, Pat. Your're an inspiration.

Larry
Jan 20, 2011, 12:07 PM
Registered User

great work


your work is just so dam good. love what you did with the wheel covers and your cowl, wow! when i got into this hobby a couple of years ago you were one of the builders who inspired me to take a shot at building. your work is ingenius and you my friend are one of the most innovative and resourceful builders ive ever seen. thanks for being there for me pat.
Jan 20, 2011, 12:41 PM
Registered User
What an excellent build log! I especially like your metalwork on the undercarriage, and the cowl is FAB.
Jan 20, 2011, 02:59 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Thread OP
Thanks folks - it's always fun doing something for the first time. All my previous glassing has been permenantly fixed to the foam.
Larry - I finished with about 6 layer total. I tried big squares of cloth pulled over the whole plug but had to cut the edges to get it to lay properly - I did about 4 of them and when cured sanded it back rather severly. Then tried as you suggest, strips layed across the cowl with each strip overlapping the last. This made it somewhat thicker at the front which is good. After curing, it got another sanding and then a gel-coat - just a slightly thinned epoxy coating brushed on. This seemed to 'orange peel' a lot and needed some heavy sanding. Maybe there are products or techniques to make the process easier but I'm a bit of a learn-by-doing-it person which means my failures are as frequent as successes! You just dont get to see them

When the cowl is completely cured (tomorrow?) I'll start applying some spray putty to get a good surface. Not much detail on this item as it is all welded. I can only find 8 big bolt heads which fix it to the firewall, two brass MS logos (I'm waiting for a MicroMark etch kit) and an aluminium ring around the opening. Of course there are a bunch of holes and slots at the bottom and a drain plug of some sort....oh boy, it sounds more of a project than I thought!
Rob, you can be a bad influence...........

Pat
Jan 20, 2011, 06:31 PM
Senile Member
Lnagel's Avatar
Thanks for the reply. I'm going to have to try that on one of my Rake planes.

Larry
Jan 20, 2011, 08:09 PM
Registered User
Very nice Pat.

Inspired to try the Glassing my self now.

Don't add to much mud to the tail skid, you will have to add more nose weight!

Cheers,

Hugh
Jan 21, 2011, 02:09 AM
Registered User
rdsok's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by maltone
Craig - I doubt I'll need dummy grass on the skid - my field will provide the real thing

Pat
Can we then assume that the "real thing" is also going to be "to scale"?

I'm just saying ....

Randy
Jan 21, 2011, 11:58 AM
Registered User
Re The MS logo that is riveted on each side of the cowl- I have drawn one in CAD (dxf file). if anybody wants a copy just PM me.
Pluriel
Jan 23, 2011, 05:00 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Thread OP

Enough cowl for now...


With the cowl filled and primed, the exhaust exit slots were cut into the bottom and a lightply ring epoxied into the rear. The rectangular hole in the firewall is from Pete's plan and allows the battery to extend under the motor if balance becomes an issue. Eight rivets were glued in place where the real cowl had fixing brackets.

The cowl is fixed by a ply 'hook' at the top and two 4-40 captive nuts at the bottom. The hex-drive bolts are easily accessible through the bottom hatch. This fixing method is another rip-off from my BUSA SPAD

The two main parts to do now are the lower hatch and the top forward deck - the latter is rather complex as it houses two Vickers in a 'hump' which then flows back into the cockpit surround which doesn't follow the fuselage top curve. I may have to think about vac-forming......

Pat
Jan 23, 2011, 06:36 PM
Neophyte hacker
portablevcb's Avatar
I think the 'hump' could be done pretty well with litho hammered over a crude form.

Looks really good so far.

charlie


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