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COnverting Server Power Supply - EMERSON
I was able to get a couple of these power supplies and would like to convert them.
This thread has been very helping but I still need a little more help to get it to work fully. The power supplies are: rated at +12.v ---- 55.0A MAX at +3.3Vco -- 0.2A MAX EMERSON Module 7001484-J000 or ACBel FS7923 These were removed from IBM X-Servers. I have attached a image of the connections 8 signals top /bottom 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 P-P-P-P-P-P-P-P-P <--Top 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 p-p-p-p-p-p-p-p-p <--Bottom if I short 07 and 15 the fan starts but as soon as I place any real load 2amp or more the power supply shutsdowns. I do get a reading from the power pins between 12.2 - 12.4 when I try to get readings of these pins these are teh readings: Top 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 G 4.2 G G 4.8 G G G G = reading 0.0 V Bottom 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 0.2 G 0.2 G 0.1 4.6 4.6 4.6 Electricity is not my thing, understand the basics ANy help or suggestions on what to try or how I can determine the pins would be greatly appreciated. Thanks |
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You mite want to go to www.wikihow.com/convert-a-com...b-power-supply pretty good article , should be all you need .
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A better place to look.
This thread may be more informative to your questions
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1292514 |
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Quote:
"Top row, pin 1 and 2"...do you short them together? Connect with a resisitor? Find 12V across the pair? |
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Emerson 7001484
I finally got the stones up to try shorting upper pins 1 and 2 together, and sure enough, the LED labeled DC turns on (on the back), the fan turns on (very low) and there is +12V on the large copper pin, on the topside of the connector. Ground is at the large copper pin on the underside of the connector.
Right now I am charging four 3S batteries in parallel, at 12A with no apparent problems. I think I'll put a small switch between pins 1 and 2, to use as an off/on switch. |
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No, a 5v load is NOT needed to turn it on. It really couldn't be simpler. Four wires soldered to the PS's connector board. (OK technically 6, because I soldered a 12V LED strip across the output, so I could be certain when it is turned on) The 2 thin wires from the off/on switch are soldered to the 2 endmost pads at the left. The +12V output is soldered to the large pad at the right, on the top of the board. The -12V is soldered to the large pad on the bottom side of the board. HTH |
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I found one of these in the recycle pile, it's my new favorite power supply. Very quiet, the fan ramps up from almost silent as the temperature rises. I soldered a pair of wires to an XT60 on the output pads and tied the second pad to the far left to the one just to the right to turn it on. I've been using it on my 400W charger.
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I spent some time yesterday working on this PSU to determine if it could be modified for series operation for 24V. It turns out it can, although it's not quite as straightforward as some of the others but given how quiet and compact these are I think it was well worth it.
Internally the unit is split up into two separate boards. A small one on the input side holds the input filter and the status LEDs while the main part of the power supply is on a second larger board and the fan sits between them. The DC ground connects to the case through the two screws at the output end so I isolated these by placing several layers of polyamide tape over the bottom of the pads and then replacing those two screws with nylon screws. Now is when I discovered that the status LEDs are grounded through the case rather than having a separate DC ground in the cable that connects between the two boards. If you ignore that, the LEDs don't work and stray currents confuse the protection circuitry and cause the power supply to shut down. Unplugging the LED cable is a possible solution but then you lose the LEDs. The input filter/LED board is multilayer and of course the LEDs ground to the middle layer so you can't simply cut the trace. What I ended up doing was desoldering the LED assembly, bending over the cathode pins of the LEDs and soldering a wire to those. I put a piece of polyamide tape over the original ground pads and soldered the LEDs back into place, then connected the new ground wire to the now-floating DC ground on the main PSU board. I buttoned it all back up and verified that I now have a floating DC ground and the power supply works perfectly in series with another. It sounds more complicated than it is in practice, having worked out the details I think I could modify another one in 20 minutes. I ended up buying several more of these on ebay for only 8 bucks each shipped. I love these things, they're super compact and exceptionally quiet, under light load they're almost silent! In comparison my Dell 700W PSU sounds like a hair dryer even with the fan as low as it will go. |
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