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Old Dec 14, 2012, 09:01 PM
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First pour some boiling water on the crack (just before water boils, don't want the water to be too hot otherwise you get alligator skin!). You can even pour some over the deformed part of the nose and try to bend it back. The trick is to get the right temperature (when it starts to form medium bubbles), once the water boils its too hot to use. Do this several times and then glue them together with something strong and light. That's how I do all my repairs.

My F-22 nose was crushed inwards during a crash. Boiling water, glue, coat of paint, and several hours later its back in the air!
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 12:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheese5 View Post
First pour some boiling water on the crack (just before water boils, don't want the water to be too hot otherwise you get alligator skin!). You can even pour some over the deformed part of the nose and try to bend it back. The trick is to get the right temperature (when it starts to form medium bubbles), once the water boils its too hot to use. Do this several times and then glue them together with something strong and light. That's how I do all my repairs.

My F-22 nose was crushed inwards during a crash. Boiling water, glue, coat of paint, and several hours later its back in the air!
Good repair job...
I totaled my f9f and repaired it 3 times this week ... i have a t45 on its way i hope its a bit easier to manage...I only have approx 15min total flight time on the f9f.....Yesterday it was awesome first flight even did rolls and loops...then second flight bad launchy...then i taped and my cg was way forward and i totaled it again..today 3 cash launches then a bad crash...i will hope i can master it next time out...not sure how much more gorilla glue and CF it can handle...
Old Dec 15, 2012, 02:37 AM
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Originally Posted by AirbusDriver View Post
Never!

Should I use foam safe or epoxy or what? Obviously I'm gonna need some reinforcing too.
Foam safe doesn't seem to work well on this EPO. Regular CA + accelerator works. It does stick instantly so you have to have it aligned. Beacon Foam tac works great. It is a contact cement. I find it to be a little more flexible (less brittle) than the CA fix but very strong. Epoxy and hot glue work also.

I use all of the above. CA+acc or Hot glue for quick fixes at the field.

I've heard people say they use gorilla glue, but I've never tried that.

Oh, and in case you are wondering... I do have LOTS of experience repairing crashed foam planes
Last edited by Tom77; Dec 15, 2012 at 02:50 AM. Reason: wording / More
Old Dec 15, 2012, 08:59 AM
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I'm just starting out learning to fly Jets but my jet will fly 100 mph

Link - My jet will fly 100 mph

Larry
Old Dec 15, 2012, 10:10 AM
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Now if I had $1 for every one of those I have met in the last 30 odd years.............lol

Dave
Old Dec 15, 2012, 10:15 AM
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I've heard people say they use gorilla glue, but I've never tried that.
Please, don't use Gorilla Glue. I used it on my old F-16 to glue the stabs and wings on. After it cured I gave them a tug and they came off cleanly at the glue joints. I was also able to peel off the cured glue without damaging the EPO surfaces.

Any CA other than odorless/foam safe works well. If you're paranoid about the brittle properties of cured CA, flexible CA works too (clear or black).

I haven't used epoxy on these planes, but the manufacturer's instructions recommend to use it. I personally will not because the EPO is similar to Multiplex's Elapor and they recommend not to use epoxy in their manuals.
Old Dec 15, 2012, 10:19 AM
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bunkx9

here is page from Rclogbook for my F9

Total as can be seen is actually 112 flights.........

Average flight 3m 48s....so only quick ones, nothing gets too hot.
Last edited by dav3uk; Dec 15, 2012 at 10:27 AM.
Old Dec 15, 2012, 11:07 AM
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Just noticed, after my crash I'm missing the aileron control rod. Has anyone flown the F16 elevons only? I'm sure finding a new rod won't be that hard but just gives me another option.
Old Dec 15, 2012, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by AirbusDriver View Post
Just noticed, after my crash I'm missing the aileron control rod. Has anyone flown the F16 elevons only? I'm sure finding a new rod won't be that hard but just gives me another option.
I taped off my ailerrons and only fly elevons and it has more than enough control.
roll rate is still very quick and tight.
try it i think you will really like it.
Old Dec 15, 2012, 12:08 PM
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Taped mine too. No problems. BTW,

Beacons Foam Tac is great glue. I also you a light bead Welders when the control surfaces start detaching. Works really good cause it stays plyable.
Last edited by dahawk47; Dec 15, 2012 at 12:17 PM.
Old Dec 15, 2012, 02:25 PM
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lipo location and CG on F-16


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Originally Posted by AirbusDriver View Post
In spectacular fashion my maiden didn't go well to put it nicely. I strongly urge any F-16 owner to go for at least 65mm. I was right at 60mm after adding weight and needed 3/4 up elevator to fly level...

Stu.
I still don't understand what's going on, here two pics of lipo placements of people running stock motor & fan - RCmodelreviews even has the 850 lipo in the FRONT compartment, and as you can see in this video, it flies great

Review: SkyAngel F16 EDF RC model plane (3 min 4 sec)


The other pic is from a German who moved the lipo back to where it is in the pic and claims CG is way behind recommended, and it finally flies superb. My 1000mA lipo sits exactly there, my CG is even further aft because of 7-blade rotor and Turnigy 2610 3600kV motor - but I am really at the rear end of the range, it's still twitchy and you have to be careful, even at low elevon throws. I don't know of anyone (excpt for you) who had to add weight on the tail. I've seen pics in this thread of big lipos all the way in front of the compartment...
EDIT: Ray posted a pic of his 4s lipo all the way in front here:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=1832
Don't know why yours is heavier, hey I don't have a pilot in my plane. Maybe there are other differences
Good luck for the remaiden, you'll like it.
PS: tailplane incidence angle seems to be too low, even with rear CG I need a bit of permanent uptrim, so you need to dial that in. For a maiden I ALWAYS dial in some uptrim BTW
Last edited by mopetista; Dec 15, 2012 at 03:29 PM.
Old Dec 15, 2012, 02:30 PM
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weights of the 50mm jets


finally got myself a scale, and put everything on it, with surprising results (all ready to fly including RX etc., just the lipo is missing, so for a 850mA add 70g, for a 1000mA 80g etc.)

AMX: 228 (tailerons only)
F-16: 250 (tailerons only, 7-blade rotor, Turnigy 2610 motor in 6-blade shroud)
L-39: 247
F9F: 272
MiG-15: 275

For comparison, the Funfighter Spitfire weighs in at 247g sans lipo

cheers
Clemens
Old Dec 15, 2012, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by mopetista View Post
I still don't understand what's going on, here two pics of lipo placements of people running stock motor & fan - RCmodelreviews even has the 850 lipo in the FRONT compartment, and as you can see in this video, it flies great
For the record my elevators were perfectly neutral. I should have dialled in some up trim but was fearing stalling more than pitching down. Theoretically, the aircraft should fly with close to neutral trim if the CG is correct, while at cruise speed. Agreed, as you speed up it would require down trim and vice versa. What I experienced was either an incorrect CG and/or as Mope said, the angle of incidence on the tail is off.

One I get her rebuilt, I'll take a photo of her on my little CG stand and let you be the judge. Of course now I'm going to have to compensate for all the glue and reinforcing.
Old Dec 15, 2012, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Whiskey Whiskey View Post
Please, don't use Gorilla Glue. I used it on my old F-16 to glue the stabs and wings on. After it cured I gave them a tug and they came off cleanly at the glue joints. I was also able to peel off the cured glue without damaging the EPO surfaces.

Any CA other than odorless/foam safe works well. If you're paranoid about the brittle properties of cured CA, flexible CA works too (clear or black).

I haven't used epoxy on these planes, but the manufacturer's instructions recommend to use it. I personally will not because the EPO is similar to Multiplex's Elapor and they recommend not to use epoxy in their manuals.
I thought I tried every type of glue to repair my foam planes,but never knew there was a flexible CA glue which seems it might be the best of all..especially for cosmetic reasons as well.what brand? and will any accelerator work?thx
Old Dec 15, 2012, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiskey Whiskey View Post
Please, don't use Gorilla Glue. I used it on my old F-16 to glue the stabs and wings on. After it cured I gave them a tug and they came off cleanly at the glue joints. I was also able to peel off the cured glue without damaging the EPO surfaces.

Any CA other than odorless/foam safe works well. If you're paranoid about the brittle properties of cured CA, flexible CA works too (clear or black).

I haven't used epoxy on these planes, but the manufacturer's instructions recommend to use it. I personally will not because the EPO is similar to Multiplex's Elapor and they recommend not to use epoxy in their manuals.
Another minus for gorilla glue is that it dries white, but over time it turns yellow. Its good for gap filling (cheap light) but for EPO it doesn't work that well.


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