Nice Piper L4 at Nitroplanes - Page 4 - RC Groups
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Dec 08, 2010, 06:47 AM
Boogie_'s Avatar
I'm using a 3s 3000mAh 20c pack.
And the prop is a Turnigy 14x5. Not really sure if it's true electric prop although it is listed as a "Turnigy Type E". Whatever that means.

The plane is really light. Anything over 300 watts will fly it well.

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Dec 08, 2010, 09:14 AM
Team Wack-a-Mole
Melnic's Avatar
Boogie, what did you use for the glue to hold the windows in?
I've been debating using 15 minute epoxy (let sit for 8-10 minutes before applying thin amount) . Letting is sit hardens it up so it does not leak and flow out
or canopy glue.
I'm leaning towards the pre-cured epoxy method.
I just feel like canopy glue does not hold well.
Last edited by Melnic; Oct 07, 2011 at 07:36 PM.
Dec 08, 2010, 09:16 AM
Boogie_'s Avatar
I used canopy glue for the first time.
We'll see how it holds up.

Epoxy would work I'm sure. Just a few dabs would do it.
Dec 09, 2010, 09:48 AM
Team Wack-a-Mole
Melnic's Avatar
All but my main window is in. I'll add that when doing the side, do the side with the DOOR first so you can reach in easier from the other side before the windows are in.

I wonder if putting in the windows first will make it harder to work on the servo installation

Here's the manual scanned to PDF

WARNING: Correction to step #17
there is a supplimental manual page showing the correct mounting distance for the landing gear to be 125mm from the front of the fire wall and NOT 115mm with gap between the sets of holes being 75mm.
Correction to step #22 And the wing struts being 223mm and not 230mm from the front.

I will scan this later and post.
Last edited by Melnic; Dec 10, 2010 at 08:55 PM.
Dec 09, 2010, 10:04 AM
Ham Call Sign: KK4KGJ
Buzz Bomb's Avatar
Thanks for the manual. Now I wanna see one flying.
Dec 10, 2010, 11:30 AM
Team Wack-a-Mole
Melnic's Avatar
Hopefully I'll have more time this weekend to finish it. Windows are all in and I think I may be able to put a pilot into it. Maybe pull the hands, head and upper body clothes then stuff foam in the inside and affix to a plate above the servos. General Joe is too heavy the way he is right now.
Dec 10, 2010, 01:12 PM
RC Paraglider / Sailplanes
Charlescd's Avatar
Question: ( i don't have the plane yet - should arrive next week).

do you guys think that hs-422 servos will be ok?
Dec 10, 2010, 01:40 PM
Registered User
nutzaboutharleys's Avatar
I got delivery confirmation from Nitroplanes, mine is supposed to be here Tuesday. My plan is to put bush tires on it with detachable skis. I'm still unsure of motor to use, I have a bunch of 3s 2200mah LIPOS already and wonder if I could hook 2 together to get 3s 4400mah. The pics of the crappy cutting on all the window cutouts makes me want to paint the entire interior and window frames.
Dec 10, 2010, 05:47 PM
Boogie_'s Avatar
I'm sure those servos would be fine Charles. This plane is almost a park flyer, it's so lite.

The window frames weren't that big a deal to clean up. I got after it with some 180# sandpaper and it took no time. But some interior detail would make this thing really pop.
It was a snap putting the sevros in with the windows installed Mel.

I've got the struts finish. I was wondering whether they are functional or not. I'm thinkin' not, by the way the end wire is glued in. Not much strength there.
Be sure not to glue the piece of wire into the end of the strut until you have determined the correct length.
Get the wing all assembled and lay out the strut parts on the inverted plane.
I had to trim the wire back on one side.

Still no servos.
But the weather will be crappy down South so I probably wouldn't have flown it anyway.
One of my flyin' buddies told me not to get any servos for it because he had scored a good deal on a batch of Futaba 3003 servos on ebay.
They were "Futaba" alright. least the sticker was. What junk. They jittered, wouldn't come back to center, dead around the center of the stick, you name it.
I've got some Hitecs ordered, should be here Monday.

And I beefed up the cabin door.
Probably went a little over board. As ham fisted as I am it can't hurt.

Dec 10, 2010, 08:15 PM
Registered User
Keep the build photos coming! I'll be tearing into mine the day after Christmas.
Dec 10, 2010, 08:21 PM
Team Wack-a-Mole
Melnic's Avatar
Front window. Did you cut out the area that the wing contacts the fuse? If I follow the outline on the window, the window will be sandwiched between the fuse and the wing. that kinda makes a little gap there.

BTW, about the windows. I should have taken a black sharpie and darkened up the wood that the windows sit into. That would have made it look better.
Dec 10, 2010, 08:39 PM
Boogie_'s Avatar
Yeah, I left the plastic between the fuse & wing. The slight gap didn't bother me.
I found the outline in the front windshield was a little off up at the top. Too much plastic up on the roof by the two front greenhouse windows. But the sides and the front lower edge were right on.
I kept trimming it off the top, and the short line on the side, a little at a time until the w/s set down and matched the curve of the airfoil.

The black Sharpie trick is a good idea. ...wish I wasn't in such a huury to put mine together now.
Dec 10, 2010, 08:56 PM
Team Wack-a-Mole
Melnic's Avatar
I just found a supplimental manual page under the wings. I updated my post for the manual scan. Will scan that in later. Maybe I'll re-scan the manual and somehow place the suppliments over the originals.
Dec 10, 2010, 11:05 PM
Team Wack-a-Mole
Melnic's Avatar
Tail wheel:
The tail wheel black plastic piece mounts 90 degrees to the axis of rotation.
But the back of the fuse is sloped so if you bend the wire, the wire will be under stress as you rotate the rudder.
How did you guys deal with that?
Dec 11, 2010, 07:00 AM
Boogie_'s Avatar
I've run across that on the last three Cubs I put together, including this one.
It's really not a problem. After you make the bend, cut the wire going in the rudd a little on the short side. Like a 5/8" long or so.
It looks like the angle will be extreme when you rotate the strut in the bracket all the way to 90 degrees. But in real world use the rudder doesn't swing that far.
Toughen up the hole with some CA glue and then re-drill it and install.
Good to go.
Last edited by Boogie_; Dec 11, 2010 at 07:05 AM.

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