Originally Posted by symdnn

Thank you for that
Here is the charger I use http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dyc-1004.html

Yep, you are good to go. Just be sure to set it up according to the directions that came with it.

Originally Posted by wyldkrd

About 80% complete with mine. I ordered the smaller 3548 900kv...That's actually the motor it states in the manual

"The 3548-09 is a 5.8 ounce, 900KV direct drive outrunner brushless motor capable of producing 70 oz of thrust from a 3 cell Lipo battery and a 13 inch prop. It will also provide very nice performance with a 4-cell Lipo battery when using the TP 11x5.5E prop.

The 3548-09 is close in performance to a 40 size glow engine, and will power 40 class trainers very nicely. I installed the 3548-09 in a 40 size trainer, and I used the APC 13x6.5E prop and two Power Up 11.1v 2200 20C Lipos connected in parallel with a Parallel Battery Harness. This combination provided a very good rate of climb and I could fly for over 20 minutes doing touch and go landings".

I have it on the plane using Flightmax 30c 3300 3s, Hyperion 60a ESC with the APC 13X8E. I did not hook up the wattmeter yet but ran it up to full had tons of power and nothing seemed to overheat or even be warm. Gonna wattmeter it when I get home. I have other big motors if the numbers don't look good.

Wattmeter gave me about 39 amps peak at 413W. I think I'm going to go with this motor. I have a 4s batt I'm picking up tomorrow, that might be the absolute ticket.

Originally Posted by wyldkrd

Wattmeter gave me about 39 amps peak at 413W. I think I'm going to go with this motor. I have a 4s batt I'm picking up tomorrow, that might be the absolute ticket.

ok, so you had:
3548-09
39A
13x8 e Prop
413W
Powerup 30C 2200mAh battery

Did you tach it when you had the 413W?
Tach it while it's getting the 39A/413W or if you can tach it and post the wattage/current your getting at the time of taching.
thx

Hey guys. I received the Arf today and thanks God everything is good and all the parts are in perfect shape.

I will start building it soon however I will have to buy a glue before I start so is there anyone who knows where can I buy ca glue locally?

Originally Posted by Melnic

ok, so you had:
3548-09
39A
13x8 e Prop
413W
Powerup 30C 2200mAh battery

Did you tach it when you had the 413W?
Tach it while it's getting the 39A/413W or if you can tach it and post the wattage/current your getting at the time of taching.
thx

No Tach until tomorrow, It's actually a Flightmax 3300 30C.

That's funny, I found out that the CA glue is the super glue that we use all the time. The CA is a chemical combination that makes the super glue. You can buy a pack of six at the dollar store. I thought that was funny

Originally Posted by symdnn

That's funny, I found out that the CA glue is the super glue that we use all the time. The CA is a chemical combination that makes the super glue. You can buy a pack of six at the dollar store. I thought that was funny

They blend them differently to get thin, medium, thick etc as well as foam safe to there are some differences but yup, Superglue is CA.

I started to build this morning and I broke the taile wing. yep I did.

Do you guys know where can I buy a replacement?

I don't think Nitro sells parts for these planes.

How bad is it? It would have to be really demolished not to be able to be repaired.
You may have to recover and paint it. Piece of cake.

Post a pic.

You guys may be interested in this if you don't have a WATTMETER already:

My AEO P0 Wattmeter from Hobbypartz came in today. there are bare leads on it. Based on the instructions, you can't calibrate the P0. I tried it and you can get into the setup menu for the P0, but the voltage adjustment does not keep. No matter though, my Fluke DMM, Eagletree V3, AEO-P1 and AEO-P0 all aggreed with the voltage within .01V

The current is another matter. I did not have my Hall affect Fluke attachement but I'll assume the Eagltree was more accurate, the AEO-P1 read .3A higher at around 10A and the P0 was within .1A. At 40A, the P0 read about .6A higher and the P1 was within .1A.

All 3 of them in series drops the wattage down about 5% but when I ran them one at a time, the wattage agreed with each other within about 2% or less.

So my conclusion is that for $18, there's no reason not to have a wattmeter in your tool box. I put bullets on my P0 so I'd have one I could use without grabbing adaptors. My P1 and Eagletree have Deans on them.

Originally Posted by Boogie_

I don't think Nitro sells parts for these planes.

How bad is it? It would have to be really demolished not to be able to be repaired.
You may have to recover and paint it. Piece of cake.

Post a pic.

Unfortunately I can't take a picture because after I broke it I had to take it out of the tail so I had to cut it in pieces. It is totally gone. It is actually the just the fin not the tail wing so I just need to buy a new fin but I have no idea where to find one.

Hey my dear hobby pros.

I found a very practical and super easy way to remove the tail wing from the canopy after I glued it with epoxy. Here is the miracle:

Get a floss thread (yes a floss thread)

Put your plane on its nose up right.

Run the floss thread through the opening at the end of the tail opening in the canopy behind the tail wing.

Hold the thread with two hands as if you are going to floss.

Keep wiggling it as you go down on top of the wing.

Once you are down at the end pull the thread back up and do the same thing at the bottom of the wing this time.

Once you are down at the end, the tail wing will detach and you will be able to pull it out.

WOW I must say, this is a super easy way with no single scratch.

remove the tail wing from the canopy

I'm trying to understand what your referring to here.
A Cub really doesn't have a typical "canopy" and I'm guessing the tail wing is the stabilizer?

But it sounds like you sawed the stab off the end of the fuse with some floss.
Good job.

If you can't find a replacement fin, you'll probably have to buy some balsa and make one.

Originally Posted by Boogie_

I'm trying to understand what your referring to here.
A Cub really doesn't have a typical "canopy" and I'm guessing the tail wing is the stabilizer?

But it sounds like you sawed the stab off the end of the fuse with some floss.
Good job.

If you can't find a replacement fin, you'll probably have to buy some balsa and make one.

Thats exactly what I did and it worked so easy.

I contacted Nitroplanes and asked them for a tail set replacement and they will locate one and ship it to me by Tuesday or Wednesday so I am waiting to hear from them. I will keep you posted

I flew on the MP 32 and 13x10 prop with parallel 3S 2200 batteries. It's flyable but not the power of a 4S setup. I did 2 flights on 3S then put my 4S setup back in. 3S is not a bad stopgap measure but I highly advise 4400mah total 3S for it.( 2 parallel 3S 2200 packs)