Originally Posted by gpm

Sounds like your motor might be suspect ?
I've had the pro out for about 9 flights now, and using the hyperion emeter and rdu, the average static current draw at launch is usually 19.6A/233w, using Rhino 3S 1850 cells. This varies slightly depending upon the IR of what battery pack I'm using.
(ps, the supplied pack has quite high IR, measures about 30mohm, the Rhino's are between 3 to 6mohm, haven't even bothered to use the parkzone 1300......)

What kind of climb are you getting. I would expect something around 60 degrees or better.

Originally Posted by FZS

I sold my Radian to a buddy so I could buy the Radian Pro. We have been flying them together for the past two days and my conclusion is the Radian is much better design than the Radian Pro. The Radian Pro has a smaller motor, producing about 2/3 the power of the Radian (18amps FP Radian versus 12 Amps FP Radian Pro). This makes for a very wimpy climb that requires pilot attention continiously to prevent it from 'falling off' the climb.

This would be a serious issue in my opinion if true, so I put my Eagle Tree Data Logger on my Radian and Radian Pro to provide another set of data points for reference.

I used a Flitemax 2200mA 25C battery on both planes, as I did not want current limiting imposed by the battery for the test. Both planes have the stock motors, props and ESC's. I ran each plane up to full throttle for approximately four seconds on the bench. The data charts are attached below.

The average data values for the 4 second full-throttle runs shows:
Radian: 15A / 158 watts
Radian Pro: 12.5A / 135 watts

The data shows an approximately 15% lower wattage and current draw for the Radian Pro in this test. So for my Radian Pro, the difference in the power systems is not as drastic as the 33% difference measured by FZS, but it is still a significant amount lower than the original Radian.

I was also expecting the power systems to be the same for the Radian Pro as the Radian after seeing the original Horizon Hobby Radian Pro presentation video. Needless to say, the power systems in the Radian and the Radian Pro are not identical as originally stated, and it is disappointing to see the Pro with less power than the Radian if the data holds true, and is not simply an anomaly in the first lot.

Of course, the ultimate test in my mind is just how significant the lower power will affect the flying qualities the Radian Pro. I am hoping for suitable weather for some time flying the Radian Pro in the next to days, and will be watching this thread with great interest.

Considering this is a new product, I am not ready to jump to any conclusions. My experiences with Horizon have always been top-notch over the years and I expect this will not change.

Tom

I would call Horizon and start asking questions.

My Radian pulls about 17 amps on the bench with a fresh 20C 1500 mah pack.

I'd check you have the throttle end points set correctly with the ESC.

Mike

I noticed an enormous dead band in the elevator.

I removed the elevator servo arm and tried working the elevator push rod by hand.

The amount of friction in the system was extraordinary.

I ended up cutting the glue on both sides of the push rod outer on the side of the fuselage and removing it. I then dug out the channel where the outer had sat until the original sharp dogleg became a sweeping curve.

I then moved the elevator horn in closer to the fuselage.

Problem solved.

Still trying to use a 9503 and the 6 channel receiver, without much luck. How about it Horizon, help us out!

Originally Posted by v9climber

Well I am just waiting till more people who have a DX6i try the support page set up. Thanks to Mike I got it to work but not through the mixes. Have it basically 2 seperate switch throws.

Matt from Horizon Hobby please take a look at this setup and tell us what is wrong. Thanks in advance

Could you post or PM you fix

Thanks

Originally Posted by MS_in_NY

Well I've spent a little time turning my Optima 7 rx every which way. I gotta hand it to Horizon, they are really good at making sure installing anyone elses gear in their planes is a royal pain in the @zz.

I'm sure I could make the Optima 7 fit but it might require cutting out some foam in the servo compartment or mounting it right next to the ESC (probably very bad idea). I think I'm gonna try the smaller Optima 6 instead. I only have the Optic 6 channel tx anyway so I don't really need to use the O7 rx.

.......Mike

Hi Mike.

I have managed to get the Optima 7 in the space available. It did require cutting a little bit of foam but nothing major. It slides in under the battery quite nicely. As per standard channel assignment, ESC is ch7 and flap2 ch6 so you will need to bring the extension back for the flap. I think I'll use a drop of goop to hold it in place. I haven't decided how to mount the BODA yet. I may just let it flop about in the space.

Cheers
Dean

Originally Posted by Dean.roberts

Hi Mike.

I have managed to get the Optima 7 in the space available.
Cheers
Dean

Hi Dean,

Thanks a bunch for posting the pics. Glad you worked it out. I think I'm gonna wait till an Optima 6 rx gets here cuz I don't need channel 7 and the O6 rx is about 3/8 inch shorter than the O7. It may still have to go in there under the battery, but I've got this crazy idea I might be able to just tywrap it to the inside of the hatch.

On the antenna...I'm thinking of hot-melting a shallow slot into the fuse, insert the antenna and tape over it. But don't hold me to that idea yet.

.......Mike

Originally Posted by Graeme Marion

The amount of friction in the system was extraordinary.

This is the only "bug" I noticed with mine. Upon removing the control rod, I noted that whatever coating is on it actually felt tacky. Some light passes with micron cloth and a rub down with powdered graphite and its action was silky smooth upon re-installation.

No chance to fly it as of yet as it has been pouring here ever since it arrived Tuesday morning.

Ok, I think I owe Horizon an apology. I 'carefully' went back and re-did the setup as instructed in this pdf...

http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo...DX6i_setup.pdf

...and from what I'm seeing on the monitor screen of my DX6i it works as advertised.

This is a better solution than the one I posted, I think. The Horizon mix essentially uses the 'flap' switch as as a mix/no mix selector ('norm and land' are left at 0 in the flap menu).

In other words with the gear switch 'off' nothing should move when you throw the flap switch. The position of the flap switch merely determines what you get when you throw the GEAR switch.

Flap switch in the up position = Gear switch operates flaps down only.

Flap switch in the down position = Gear switch operates both flaps down and ails up (CROW).

Sorry if I led anyone from the path of righteousness with my previous criticisms of the Horizon mix instructions. Near as I can tell they do what they say they do.

.....Mike

Originally Posted by Chuck Yeager

Still trying to use a 9503 and the 6 channel receiver, without much luck. How about it Horizon, help us out!

Hi Chuck, I'm using the aus equivalent of the 9303 tx, have a look at the attachment and see if it's any good for your 9503
Regards, Glenn

I have managed my optima 7 in the original location by cutting some foam.
Haven to have it under the battery might not be so good from a heat perspective.
I do think that the flaps will be on a Y connection as it gets to crowded in there.
This will still allow me reflex,crow and flaps on my Aurora 9.
Moved the battery forward about an inch and will ad a little ballast on the tail should do it.

Originally Posted by MS_in_NY

Ok, I think I owe Horizon an apology. I 'carefully' went back and re-did the setup as instructed in this pdf...

http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo...DX6i_setup.pdf

...and from what I'm seeing on the monitor screen of my DX6i it works as advertised.

This is a better solution than the one I posted, I think. The Horizon mix essentially uses the 'flap' switch as as a mix/no mix selector ('norm and land' are left at 0 in the flap menu).

In other words with the gear switch 'off' nothing should move when you throw the flap switch. The position of the flap switch merely determines what you get when you throw the GEAR switch.

Flap switch in the up position = Gear switch operates flaps down only.

Flap switch in the down position = Gear switch operates both flaps down and ails up (CROW).

Sorry if I led anyone from the path of righteousness with my previous criticisms of the Horizon mix instructions. Near as I can tell they do what they say they do.

.....Mike

Ok then I guess its just me with something setup wrong. Here is what I am getting Mike:

-Flip the gear switch from #1 position to #0 I get flaps

-Flip the flaps switch #1 to #2 the ailerons pop up (guessing this should not happen as it suppose to be mixed with the gear switch)

-With Flaps in #1 position (ailerons both up) I flip the gear switch from #1 position to #0 and flaps deploy but ailerons go back to neutral position.

Questions:

Does it make a difference what Aileron lead is in the aux1 channel?

What position do your flaps deploy from switch position #1 or #0?

Thanks in advance for any help



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Originally Posted by v9climber

Does it make a difference what Aileron lead is in the aux1 channel?

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Usually the left aileron goes into the AUX1 port.
MR2