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Now it flies the way I want it to, and there are a couple of important side benefits. The ailerons are more responsive, and that makes it feel that I am more in control. The difference is immediately obvious when coming in for landings while gusty winds are pushing the plane around. Another benefit is less compression of the wing roots and fuselage cutouts, so slop doesn't build up as much as it does with the stock rod. It's also lighter, and that can't be a bad thing. |
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Last edited by Jovanx; Aug 23, 2012 at 02:41 PM.
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I have been buying my 0.375 pultruded cf spars from Goodwinds (p/n 020975):: http://www.goodwinds.com/index.shtml |
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Got my first few flights in this morning on my first plane lol. Good times, no crashes. This thing is smooth.
I am using a program on my a9 from another guy and never did anything to it, i found even when moving the cg around it was doing the porpise and would pitch upward lots. I am guessing i should get all trims to zero and trim my own plane... call me a bonehead for not doin this before. EDIT the only trims are on the throttle stick which i thought is only used in crow. I want to start a model from scratch but honestly its a bit overwhelming to hax to make all my own mixes and ive been reading lots lol Ill have to figure out proportional stick control. Full throttle is too fast all the time for a noob |
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Last edited by elliott000; Aug 24, 2012 at 10:33 AM.
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I would suggest that you start simple, and fly it like a basic 4-channel airplane and put the flaps on a switch. Throttle, rudder, elevator, and ailerons would be on the sticks. Once you are used to that, you can tinker with fancier settings. |
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You might suggest this mod to you friends at the field. I put a .380 CF tube on my RP and it's probably the single mod that most changed the flight characteristics of the plane for the better. Much less flutter, better aileron response, better elevator response, just to name a few. It simply flies much more "crisply" with the stiffer and lighter rod.
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I'll second Jovanx's suggestion, elliot.
Especially when one is learning I think it's essential to have the option of using a little proportional throttle to stretch landing approaches if nothing else. Waiting just a little too long and then being forced to go to full throttle can get hairy for anyone. Proportional flaps are more of an intermediate to advanced skill set. One needs to mix some elevator and/or be ready to correct and that just takes a while to learn. And, you're right. Ultimately one needs to find one's own best setup but a friend/instructor can get it close enough to avoid disaster. Re: porpoising. You're friend probably set it up to be closer to his skill level than yours. It might be just a tad tail heavy for a beginner and/or have a bit too much elevator sensitivity. A little expo on the elevator and moving the CG forward a couple millimeters can make a big difference. I would guess it's really close to where you want it or you would have suffered worse than some porpoising. |
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Then the new Radian arrived. I chuckled to myself upon discovering that the spar was the same length but even wimpier than the one that comes with the RP. Unfortunately, the holes in the wings didn't allow for the extra length of my CF rod. I was forced to fly it for 2 weeks with the stock RP wing spar. The idea of using the stock Radian spar was never an option. I had to really hold myself back from chopping that extra 1-1/4 inches off the CF spar so it would fit in the Radian. I flew it every day, in spite of that mushy, floppy feeling, and it was obviously taking a step backwards. Now both of my Radians are happy with their CF rods, and so am I. What a relief! |
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Thanks guys, ill try a fresh setup with 4 on 4, any mixing i need to worry about since i wont be using flaperons, ill mix a little ail and rud. Sh#t ill just have at it and see what happens lol i thought setting up my swash mix and flight modes was serious
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Hey guys, I have my RP set up with flaps and crow on a DX6i. How do I set up flaperons? I know I'll loose the crow (ailerons up) but I would like to experiment.
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I set mine up initially with the Radian Pro Setup available on the SpektrumRC website for my DX-8, and, other than adjusting some of the throws to make them more (flaps, etc.), I've been using them as is. This is my first glider/sailplane experience, and frankly, my first plan much bigger than a 1/2A or UMX sized plane, and I've been having a blast playing with the Crow switch, Flaps, etc., just to see what effect each of them have. Haven't crashed her yet, and have more than enough adjustability to make her float, etc. Throttle, with this setup, is preserved on the left stick, which is right where I prefer it to be. |
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Sorry guys, I figured it out, just reverse the crow, duh... How much down aileron is a good starting point?
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Hi, av8ersteve.
You want to be careful with flaperons on a glider. Moving the ailerons down adds "wash in" and can create a serious tip stall problem. It's not always dangerous, depending on the plane, but you should experiment at altitude before you try to make the last turn onto final approach. Most people who droop the ailerons use it to increase camber and maximize lift. This only takes a couple degrees of throw and is not generally used in landing configuration. That's why maximum crow is flaps down and ailerons up. This configuration makes the center of the wing stall before the tip and that's a good thing. Cheers! |
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Thanks for the input peterlngh. A tip stall during landing is the last thing I want. I'm setting it back for crow. Not even going to take the chance. I love this forum, r/c'ers helping r/c'ers.
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