Originally Posted by Jovanx

I don't have enough mixes on my DX6i to make the flaps follow the ailerons, but I am curious...when do you use it? What type of conditions make this increased roll control necessary? One example I can think of is when coming in for a landing and the winds are gusting all over the place. I am guessing the extra roll control would help you keep the wings parallel to the ground.

Yes, windy conditions both when I am flying and when I am near the ground.

Originally Posted by rcoconut

WOW Easter.... First your micro MiG 15 awesome pics and now the RP!!! Great shots!!! Waiting for Jumpy's turn with his night ops when he's all finished setting her up!!!

Thanks coco, wait to you see the vid when it's dark out.
I'll edit it tonight after work UA is delayed AGAIN...story of my life.

Originally Posted by Eastcoast78

Thanks coco, wait to you see the vid when it's dark out.
I'll edit it tonight after work UA is delayed AGAIN...story of my life.

I haven't read the instructions yet. Can I connect these light strings to a 3c battery? I think they are 5 volt strings, but a 3c is more like 12 volt, right? Showing my ignorance.

EDIT...I see now that they are 12 volt, so I will have to use the 3c 1800ma battery as the source. That gives me the standard 1300ma to fly the plane plus 500 ma to run the lights.

I'm thinking of splicing together a string of red, white and blue out each wing, then pulling the end through the wingtip camera holes so that a few lights are on top of the wing (you know why). So that set of old wings can do double duty, either running lights or cameras, or maybe even both...I'll put the switch for the lights on channel 7 and use the flap switch on the tranny to operate the lights. I'll copy my existing program to a "night" version where the flaps will operate off the throttle switch and the flap switch will be the light switch. The day version has 45 degrees flaps on the flap switch plus proportional flap on the throttle stick when motor switch is off.

While I'm doing this I should go ahead and rig up the multiplex quick connect wing system so I can quickly swap out the stock wings with the camera/light wings.

Anyways, advice appreciated!

Originally Posted by JumpySticks

I haven't read the instructions yet. Can I connect these light strings to a 3c battery? I think they are 5 volt strings, but a 3c is more like 12 volt, right? Showing my ignorance.

EDIT...I see now that they are 12 volt, so I will have to use the 3c 1800ma battery as the source. That gives me the standard 1300ma to fly the plane plus 500 ma to run the lights.

I'm thinking of splicing together a string of red, white and blue out each wing, then pulling the end through the wingtip camera holes so that a few lights are on top of the wing (you know why). So that set of old wings can do double duty, either running lights or cameras, or maybe even both...I'll put the switch for the lights on channel 7 and use the flap switch on the tranny to operate the lights. I'll copy my existing program to a "night" version where the flaps will operate off the throttle switch and the flap switch will be the light switch. The day version has 45 degrees flaps on the flap switch plus proportional flap on the throttle stick when motor switch is off.

While I'm doing this I should go ahead and rig up the multiplex quick connect wing system so I can quickly swap out the stock wings with the camera/light wings.

Anyways, advice appreciated!

Sounds good!
yes a 3S/12v battery is the norm for LEDS. Im assuming oyu got your from HK. They burn 400Mah per yard. keep that in mind.
So if you have 6 feet of lights.a 800mah batt should last a hour! But thats not to account for a Lipo. you dont want to drain your battery. You have the esc so you'll be fine.

But for me, running on its own batt. a full charged 500mah 3S gets me about 30mins. I have about 2 yards of lights, when i come down batt is around 3.7v per cell.

I've ran LEDS on my quadcopter from the main flight battery. once your batt gets around 3.5v you lights well dim with throttle!
those 6 pin molex connectors are perfect for the job,one connection for your AIL,Flaps and LEDS

Here is one of yesterdays flights using P&T with a head tracker I haven't used for years. I forgot how much I loved it

thermal to 793m.....prop came loose on finals (36 min 34 sec)

I'll get some photos of my setup today, but I warn you it's not pretty.
Cadders

First of all this forum is killing me. Every time I think I have my RP just the way I want it, then BAM! This forum gives me more ideas. Now I want to add LED’s. Also here is an idea for some people that want to reinforce their RP. I discovered this on my own but that doesn’t mean other people have not done it but anyway I use bright colored duct tape to enhance my RP visually at altitude and it also reinforces my flaps, ailerons and wing tips. I seem to get better control. I use the light duty duct tape and not much of it; it’s thin so it does not add much weight.

I do have a question though. I just moved my throttle from stick to switch. By default the ESC is set to .25 seconds. Should I program the ESC for 1 second or will it be fine?

Radian Pro Night flying (4 min 36 sec)

For the folks using the RP as an FPV, does the stock motor have the power to carry the extra gear or did you upgrade it? If so, to what?

Originally Posted by eroeder

For the folks using the RP as an FPV, does the stock motor have the power to carry the extra gear or did you upgrade it? If so, to what?

Idontfly FPV with the RP,but with a Wing. I think it well handle it fine. But if i were to
fpv with it, i wouldat least get a 10x8 prop. so i guess it would not be stock.

On mine.i carry 8 oz GoPro in its case, a extra 500mah 3S, that battery is 50grams. so im looking at at least 10oz extra.

Id like to see the lay out of the fpv gear on a RadinPro. cause I've thought about it a few times. lol

Originally Posted by Eastcoast78

Sounds good!
yes a 3S/12v battery is the norm for LEDS. Im assuming oyu got your from HK. They burn 400Mah per yard. keep that in mind.
So if you have 6 feet of lights.a 800mah batt should last a hour! But thats not to account for a Lipo. you dont want to drain your battery. You have the esc so you'll be fine.

But for me, running on its own batt. a full charged 500mah 3S gets me about 30mins. I have about 2 yards of lights, when i come down batt is around 3.7v per cell.

I've ran LEDS on my quadcopter from the main flight battery. once your batt gets around 3.5v you lights well dim with throttle!
those 6 pin molex connectors are perfect for the job,one connection for your AIL,Flaps and LEDS

Thanks EC.

Now after reading the schematic for hooking up the switch device (controlled by extra receiver channel), I'm even more confused. It says to connect the switch power leads to the BEC output, but my RP has an ESC with a built in BEC. If I connect the lights to that they will go out when the throttle is off. I guess I will have to just hook the lights to a separate battery or get a BEC with a separate speed control.

Any experts out there?

which unit are you using?
this one?
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...d_Switch_.html

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...17X46219X9.jpg

what they mean by BEC is your ESC. On/off switches usually have a servo lead? the only way the lights would go on/off with Thr input is if the switch lead were plugged into the THR channel. So unless you Y harness in the Thr channel, and run your switch and esc lead into the Y would the lights go off with Thr input.
I tested it with the flap channel. when i was trying to set up without a spare channel. it worked, as the flap is a 3 pos switch.
flaps up, light is on. flaps mid position flaps stay on. Flaps Full lights would go off.

it took a bit of adjusting with the flap EPA's so i knew when i moved the Mock set up over to the RP the flaps would be messed up! So i didn't bother. the separate battery is more covenant.

The switch only taps into your esc to get power. whichever port you plug the switches lead into should activate the switch.
thats how the one above works.

Originally Posted by Flux Cobalt

First of all this forum is killing me. Every time I think I have my RP just the way I want it, then BAM! This forum gives me more ideas. Now I want to add LED’s.

LOL, I hear ya, always something huh!! But I've been wanting to put LED's on my RP for a long time!! Wasn't sure how to go about it so I started with my PZ Super Cub BL first and it's so cool!!
Eastcoast is the first and as you can see Jumpy will be next!! (first night flyers as far as the "regulars" here in this forum)
Night flying is so much fun and the audience you get is crazy!! People will FOLLOW your plane with their car and hunt & find you wondering what it is!
So c'mon Flux, we need to get on it!!! (who am I kidding, LOL, I still need to place my order with HobbyKing for all the LED's, but she WILL be rigged for night running!!)

Thought you might appreciate this.

My maiden flight of my RP ended in disaster. Replacement for my radian (eaten by a cloud a few weeks back). First few flights were hairy, but I was starting to get it trimmed, when the rudder clevis came loose (my bad, apparently hadn't replaced the rubber band after the last adjustment). Dive bomb out of sight. 3 hours to find it gently in a tree, 30' up. Another two hours to get it down (tail broken off, but otherwise ok).

Ordered a replacement fuse through Amazon. The first is repairable, but for $35 I figured why not. Below is a picture of the fuselage as delivered. You can see the telescoped "box" in the background. No packing material whatsoever.

Originally Posted by Eastcoast78

what they mean by BEC is your ESC. On/off switches usually have a servo lead? the only way the lights would go on/off with Thr input is if the switch lead were plugged into the THR channel. So unless you Y harness in the Thr channel, and run your switch and esc lead into the Y would the lights go off with Thr input.
I tested it with the flap channel. when i was trying to set up without a spare channel. it worked, as the flap is a 3 pos switch.
flaps up, light is on. flaps mid position flaps stay on. Flaps Full lights would go off.

it took a bit of adjusting with the flap EPA's so i knew when i moved the Mock set up over to the RP the flaps would be messed up! So i didn't bother. the separate battery is more covenant.

The switch only taps into your esc to get power. whichever port you plug the switches lead into should activate the switch.
thats how the one above works.

Yes, the switch has a servo lead which I will run to channel 7. But if the power leads are spliced into the esc output wires, they won't get any juice when the throttle is off, will they? If there was juice there then the motor would be turning....? The esc has its own lead attached to the throttle channel, and when the throttle is off, it seems to me that no juice should be coming through the hot leads out of the esc....

I guess I will just wire it according to instructions, treating the esc like a bec, and see what happens. IMHO I'll get nothing when the throttle is off.