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Dec 16, 2010, 11:08 PM
www.gunnphotoservices.com
Matt Gunn's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by MS_in_NY
Yes bench test inside. I stuck my finger on the back of the motor several times after the longer runs and didn't notice any significant heat buildup. But I'm sure it takes time for the heat to get from the coils to the bell. I'm just guessing but I have a feeling a 12x5 might top out in the 18-22 amp range.

I should also mention...the Aeronaut 4mm collet adapter, 52mm yoke, and 50mm spinner ARE NOT a perfect match to the Radian nose. The spinner is a bit small in diameter and sits with about a 3/16 gap behind it. The Aeronaut 4mm setscrew adapter fits a little closer. Only about a 1/8 inch gap.

.......Mike
is the spinner nessicary? I asked earlier but I want to confirm.
Will the CAM blades fit and fold back all the way with the stock spinner and hub?
Matt
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Dec 16, 2010, 11:27 PM
Registered User
MS_in_NY's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by webdr
is the spinner nessicary? I asked earlier but I want to confirm.
Will the CAM blades fit and fold back all the way with the stock spinner and hub?
Matt
For Aeronaut blades you really need to replace everything. They won't (easily) fit the stock spinner. The shoulders (the part where the pin passes through) is too thick and would need some fairly heavy sanding to make them fit. (Balance and strength issues doing that.)

The complete Aeronaut setup folds perfectly.

Graupner blades are far easier to mount on the stock hub/spinner assembly. You just have to drill out the pin holes from 2mm to 3mm. (I think.) I don't know how that setup folds.

......Mike
Dec 16, 2010, 11:36 PM
Not your average DiggsyBear
Diggs's Avatar
I used the stock Multiplex Cularis setup (spinner blades and all) on my original Radian. I think the blades are 12x6. I used a motor with a 4mm shaft and the spinner and blades fit and fold as well as the stock setup. What is the shaft Dia. on the stock Radian Pro motor? If it is 4 mm, and the nose is the same as the original Radian, then this works perfect
http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id...9&pid=E1055866
http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id...9&pid=C2330017

I wonder if that motor would swing these?

Diggs
Dec 17, 2010, 12:15 AM
'Sky' King
tking2097's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by MS_in_NY
snip...

Graupner blades are far easier to mount on the stock hub/spinner assembly. You just have to drill out the pin holes from 2mm to 3mm. (I think.) I don't know how that setup folds.

......Mike
I enlarged the existing mounting holes in the Graupner 10" x 8" props using a #31, 0.120 inch drill. This allowed the retaining pins for the stock props to fit through the Graupner props, and no mods need to be made to the stock spinner. Once installed, the Graupner props to fold back the same way the stock props do. This fix was very quick and easy to do.
Dec 17, 2010, 12:46 AM
R/C is a SICKNESS
Duncandiver's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kingsflyer
From my experience there may be more of a prop issue than a motor issue.

Here's my story ---- I got my new Radian Pro and the motor seemed to be a low Kv, low performing motor. I was measuring 12 amps and 130 watts on a freshly charged stock 1300 mah 3-cell Lipo battery. I called HH and they said to send the motor in, so I did. They sent me a replacement motor - a stock plastic end bell Radian motor and a replacement stock Radian prop. I installed the Radian motor on my plane with the original set of Radian Pro blades and got 13 amps and 140 watts on the same freshly charged 1300 mah battery. Not much of an improvement! I then put the stock Radian prop blades on the motor and got 15.3 amps and 165 watts with the same 1300 mah battery.

After all the electrons have settled, I really wish I had kept my original metal housing Radian Pro motor and had just bought a new prop.

For those of you who are thinking about sending your low performing Radian Pro motor back to HH, I'd advise you try a new prop first.

McD


Great stuff… is the P/N for the Radian propeller = 9.75 X 7.5
P/N for the Pro propeller = 9.75 X 7.5_1
Dec 17, 2010, 01:38 AM
Dixie Normious
Eastcoast78's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duncandiver
Great stuff… is the P/N for the Radian propeller = 9.75 X 7.5
P/N for the Pro propeller = 9.75 X 7.5_1
The Props that used too break on the radian were 9.75 X 7.5,but HH re-did the Props to the new and Improved 9.75 X 7.5_1
I don't think you'll find the 9.75 X 7.5 anymore.
theres a bulletin on HH website.
As for the Connectors i cut the EC3's off and used XT60's from HK,they are Very nice and super easy too soldier,well the (helping hands) helps too.... lol
I think you can get the Xt60/EC3 adapter on HobbyKing.But i don't have any and all my Batts are from HK and have the Xt60's. I love them.

:{Note} Good idea when soldering put the M/F together.The XT60s are strong and resistant to heat but after some time the bullets well heat up too the point where it melts the Hard Plastic housing.Have the Male and female together keeps them lined up.



Quite the birds nest in there.I added the servo extensions.But man its still a pain trying too fit the extra wires
in the hole.And you need every bit of the wires in,If not the Wing well not go all the way too line up with the Wing Screw...its too the point where they start too come in the Fuse lol...
Last edited by Eastcoast78; Dec 17, 2010 at 02:58 AM.
Dec 17, 2010, 03:33 AM
Registered Abuser
Kentucky's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kentucky
I got some Graupner blades in the mail today, unfortunately I won't have time to fit them or fly again for a couple of weeks.

If this is all it takes to get her climbing right I'm happy.
The suspence was killing me so I just had to go and fit them.
These are Graupner 10x6 with a hub size of 6mm and a hole size of 2mm.
http://www.aircraft-world.com/shopexd.asp?id=1249

All you need to do to make them fit the stock spinner is the enlarge the holes to 3mm. I did this with a rat-tail file.
They fold pretty well, half of the the way round they fold completely on the fuz and sit up slightly the rest of the time.
You can see this in the pic. This is because of the built in right thrust.

10.91V
21.1A
230W
6810 RPM
Stock pro motor (low Kv)
Dec 17, 2010, 03:50 AM
Ozzie Express wiggy pilot
SON OF PALEFACE's Avatar
I just downloaded the Radian Pro updates into my DX8 , can anyone point me to how to set it up
Thanks
Ian
Dec 17, 2010, 05:47 AM
We shall serve the Lord
kingsflyer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SON OF PALEFACE
I just downloaded the Radian Pro updates into my DX8 , can anyone point me to how to set it up
Thanks
Ian
HiYa Mate! You got a Dx8? I'm impressed. Good to see you posting on this thread. You can check back on some of my posts and see what an adventure I've had with my Radian Pro. Sorry I can't help with your setup, I'm still working on sorting out my own setup. PM me when you get a chance.

Mike McD
Latest blog entry: LEDs on my T-28
Dec 17, 2010, 06:58 AM
Registered User
rahtware's Avatar
The data from my kit motor/prop and the replacement motor/prop that HH sent me, as I originally posted on:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...308946&page=83

Condensed version of data:

Kit motor/kit prop: Average Amps = 11.83; Average Watts = 130.05

kit motor/new prop: Avg Amps = 13.43; Avg Watts = 146.27

new motor/kit prop: Avg Amps = 12.17; Avg Watts = 134.37

new motor/new prop: Avg Amps = 14.29; Avg Watts = 155.26

Seems like the new prop makes up for most of the increase in power... Might just keep the old motor (with the all metal bell), but go with the new prop.

Biggest problem with my data is I don't have a thrust meter. I thought I could feel a difference in "pull", but no way to prove it. And, as Dr Kiwi and others have proved, an increase in power consumed does not always translate to an increase in thrust.
Dec 17, 2010, 07:32 AM
Proud member of LISF and ESL
Rahtware

We owe you a big thank you for running and reporting these thests. What you have shown is the problem is both the motor and the prop.

Even thought the numbers on the props may be the same they apparently are not. You can have two props that are 9.75X7.75 that have different characteristics based on the airfoil of the blade. (yes, prop have aifroils. They are spinning wings.)

So, it seems they have a motor that is lower performance than the original AND a prop that does not pull as hard as the original. So both need to be changed which yields about a 20% improvement overall. That is significant improvement.


I look forward to hearing your flight reports and a comparison of the climb performance.
Last edited by aeajr; Dec 18, 2010 at 07:02 AM.
Dec 17, 2010, 07:52 AM
Registered User
rahtware's Avatar
I've noticed that there are different Cam prop models, does it matter which one I order? The link that Kentucky posted leads to props that are printed with "Cam Gear Prop", Hobby-Lobby.com sells a prop that is marked "Cam folding Prop". http://www.hobby-lobby.com/10x8_cam_...s_425_prd1.htm

Also, I think you are all talking about the 10X8, not the 10X6 as Kentucky wrote (but his link was to the 10X8)...

I like the look of the metal-bell motor that came with my RP-Pro much more than the plastic/metal bell of the replacement motor that HH sent me, and am trying to decide which one to send back.

I already posted these pics on the other thread, but am re-posting them here as this thread seems to be focused more on the "prop" issue than the other thread. Motor on the left is the metal bell motor that came with my RP-Pro, motor on the right is the plastic/metal bell replacement that HH sent me.
Dec 17, 2010, 08:14 AM
Registered User
rahtware's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by aeajr
Rahtware

-snip-

I look forward to hearing your flight reports and a comparison of the climb performance.
I don't know if HH would let me "fly" both motors... the original deal I set up with them is: they send me the replacement motor, I was to send back the original motor (or they would charge me for the replacement).

I figured I wouldn't be stretching that agreement too far in bench testing the motors to see if the replacement motor was truly an improvement over the original. Not sure if I want to pay $45US for a second HH motor when a Turnigy of (roughly) the same specs costs $16.

I guess I need to call them back to see if I can keep the old motor and send back the replacement, or if I HAVE to send the kit motor back or be charged.
Dec 17, 2010, 10:30 AM
Never enough time to fly!
ecase's Avatar
I am getting the BNF version of the Pro. What is esc set to, Brake on or Brake off? I have looked at the manual on line but don't see the info.
Dec 17, 2010, 10:46 AM
Dixie Normious
Eastcoast78's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahtware
I don't know if HH would let me "fly" both motors... the original deal I set up with them is: they send me the replacement motor, I was to send back the original motor (or they would charge me for the replacement).

I figured I wouldn't be stretching that agreement too far in bench testing the motors to see if the replacement motor was truly an improvement over the original. Not sure if I want to pay $45US for a second HH motor when a Turnigy of (roughly) the same specs costs $16.

I guess I need to call them back to see if I can keep the old motor and send back the replacement, or if I HAVE to send the kit motor back or be charged.
Tell yea the truth i would send back the the Plastic one/Replacment
So so the Turnigy fit perfect? .I like the Turnigy stuff.I can get 3 for the Price of one ;0)
Do you have a link to the motor?
my 10x8s were sent yesterday.What there Shipping times like? I find the norm for stuff from Asia is 2-3 weeks.


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