I just ordered my Radian Pro! I can't wait to try her.
A while ago i asked here if 2200 batteries would do, and they would. But i wonder wich battery is the goldspot between floating and duration?
As i can think the 2200's are so heavy that she will loose altitude faster then a smaller battery?

Edit: Very nice video Brookfreeman

Originally Posted by brookfreeman71

4th flight of my Radian Pro. Nice calm evening at Woodlawn Lake in San Antonio, Texas

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Npi3Oa-xkfA

Brook,
Very nice video and nice flying. That landing was super smooooooooth!
Thanks for sharing it with us.
Bill in MO

Thanks Coenraad, and Bill for your comments! The Radian Pro makes an awesome camera platform. I can't wait to get her in some lift while I am filming.

What kind of camera were you using, and how is it mounted? Very nice video!

Originally Posted by Coenraad

I just ordered my Radian Pro! I can't wait to try her.
A while ago i asked here if 2200 batteries would do, and they would. But i wonder wich battery is the goldspot between floating and duration?
As i can think the 2200's are so heavy that she will loose altitude faster then a smaller battery?

It all depends on conditions, Coenraad. My RP with a 1300 weighs 980g all up, and balances almost perfectly with the battery jammed all the way into the slot. When I toss in a 2200, I need 10g of coins (2 US 5¢ pieces) taped to the tail to balance it out, for a total all-up weight of 1060g.

I'll use the 2200 if I feel more like motoring around for a while, or if there is a strong wind. The extra weight seems to help the RP penetrate into the wind a bit better.

I'll use the 1300 if I have good lift conditions, and need few or no motor runs. There is plenty of juice for 1+ hour of flight when you're not running the motor much.

I once had a 61 minute slope flight with perhaps 6-8 short motor burns of about 5 seconds each, with the 2200 pack. I was still pretty new to the plane, so I was stunned to find that I only had to put ~780 mAh back into the pack. At that rate, I could have easily flown for well over 2 hours!

Originally Posted by aeajr

Here is another set-up for an Eclipse 7 that I found. I did not write it as I have never owned an Eclipse 7 myself.

Full house 6 servo setup on the Eclipse 7 Transmitter

The Eclipse 7 transmitter can be setup to have all of the following surface movements in a full house Thermal Duration, or Slope Racing Sailplane:




• Proportional 4 wing surface movement, for TE camber control, with elevator compensation, if needed.
• Proportional 4 wing surface TE ‘snap flap’ with application of elevator.
• Flaps mix into the ailerons for increased roll response.
• Rudder mixed into the ailerons for coordinated turns.
• “CROW” braking, (Flaps down, ailerons up, and elevator compensation) proportional on the throttle stick.
• Extra rudder / aileron coupling, on landing mode, to assist with lateral control, during “CROW” mode, if desired.



Channel Assignment-

1. Left Aileron
2. Right V-tail
3. N/A or ESC.
4. Left V-tail
5. Right Aileron
6. Left Flap
7. Right Flap
8. Battery

After the basic first three screens, which are EPA, D/R, and Expo, There is a screen for Flt.C. (Flight Conditions), which I leave inhibited (Inh.).
Next two screens are Sub trim, and Servo Reversing, which will vary by model.
Then we come to the Programmable Mixes. PM1, and PM2 are left inhibited.

But, the GEAR switch, which controls PM3, can be used to give more V-tail mixing in the CROW landing mode, which is helpful with the ailerons up in the CROW position.
To do this, enable the mix, and keep the top arrow (master) on channel 1(ailerons). Move the bottom arrow to channel 4 (rudder). Then adjust the percentage of mixing to get the desired results. Don’t forget to adjust both sides by moving the right stick on the transmitter.
This Aileron / Rudder mixing on the gear switch is independent of the setting that you program in on the standard Aileron / Rudder mixing menu. I like having more while landing for better directional control.

PM4 is left inhibited.
PM5, when activated, is controlled by the Flight Condition switch on the right side of the transmitter. This is where the Ailerons will be slaved to the elevator, for full trailing edge snapflap.
To accomplish this, move the top arrow (master) to channel 2, and the bottom arrow (slave) to channel 5. Then adjust the percentage to match the flaps, or use a little less to prevent tip stalling. For my slope racing gliders, I leave the mix at 0% for down elevator, but in an aerobatic plane, it could be useful I suppose.

The next two screens are Aileron Differential, and V-tail mixing on or inhibited, and are explained in the manual.

The next screen is Elevator / Flap mixing, and gives you the flap droop when you pull on the elevator stick. Adjust the percentage after enabling this mix, to suite your needs. The Flight Mode switch, on the left topside of the transmitter, must be back for the mix to be on. This, combined with the Flight Condition switch forward, will give 4-wing servo snapflap on the elevator.

The next screen is Aileron / Rudder mixing, which is on when the rudder dual rate switch is in the low position. Adjust as needed.

The next screen is the Flap / Aileron mix, which gives the full trailing edge camber on the VR1 knob. Enable and adjust this percentage, and do both sides if you’d like to have reflex as well as camber. This is on with the channel 7 switch in the down position.

The next screen is Flap / Elevator mixing, also on with the channel 7 switch down. This is used to add some down elevator with the 4-wing servo camber on the VR1 knob. Enable, and adjust as needed.

The next screen is CROW, activate and adjust per the manual, and remember that it is on with the Gear switch, and that it is proportional on the throttle stick.

The next two screens are Sub Trim 1 and Sub Trim 2, which I’ve left inhibited.
And the next screen is the Aileron Trim screen. I did nothing on this screen.

The next screen is Aileron / Flap. This is where you can slave the flaps to the ailerons to give better aileron authority. Remember to adjust the throw in both directions, and for both flaps. This function is switched on via the Flight Condition switch, which also gives you the 4-servo snapflap, so, unfortunately, if you want them both, but independently, you’re out of luck…

The next screen is Dual Flap Trim, and I have not enabled this function.



So there we have it; all the functions that you really need to slope race or winch launch a 6 servo, full house sailplane with the Eclipse 7 transmitter, also capable of frequency and shift selection.

When racing, I use the transmitter with the Gear switch back, Flight Condition switch forward, Flight Mode switch back, and the channel 7 switch down.
To land move the Flight Condition switch back, Gear switch forward, for crow enabled, with extra v-tail mixed to the ailerons, and proportional CROW on the throttle stick.

aeajr,

Thanks for your reply's I think I have enough info to get it programed.
Phil

Ok, thanks for the info RCRod. I will buy 2 1300 packs then.

Originally Posted by edpirnak

Almost ready for maiden, one thing is remaining. Any ideas how to straighten it?

Just came on and noticed your comment. Mine looked the same as yours (and as others have experienced). I inserted/wedged small strips of some scrap 1/64" plywood that I had on hand, between the stab and mounting platform. Added them to underside side (side that was low), and then to the opposite, upper side that was high (i.e. tilted up). Everything is a little tight but now everything is lined up.

Originally Posted by bdshort

What kind of camera were you using, and how is it mounted? Very nice video!

bdshort-

Thanks for the comment! I am using the GoPro Hero 960; much like the GoPro Hero HD, but will not shoot on 1080p or 720p 60 frames per second. I shot my vid in 720p @ 30 fps.

To mount my camera, I took a standard GoPro flat mount, and removed the double sided tape. I measured the CG with an 1800; temporarily attached the camera and mount to the plane (with a small piece of double sided tape) to measure where the camera should go, as not to affect the CG (but it will cause some drag).

I traced the shape of the mount on the fuse then carefully scored the line with my knife and pieced out the foam. I applied a thick layer of Gorilla Glue 2X white on the mount, and then dampened the fuse where I would place the mount.

Hope this helps!

Brook

Originally Posted by Krazykayak75

I'm the one that did the popsicle trick. It worked Great. But now the other side is broke.

Any ideas on how to do both sides ? I was thinkinging aluminum flat stock.

I posted my version of a fix somewhere near your original fix post but I think it's worth repeating (although I guess it doesn't help you because of your total mod ... but when one tab broke on me, I removed the insert halves from the fuse completely, pressed the good tab into a 2 inch block of clay until it was flush with the clay block surface. then I pulled it out and laid the broken tab (they seem to break right at the screw hole, ) into the impression left by the good tab. This leaves a perfect 'well' impression of the missing tab tip. I then poured a speck of quick setting liquid epoxy into the missing tip impression and also allowed the epoxy to glaze over the intact part of the tab. The result is a perfectly formed tab that is overall a tad thicker, super strong, and accepts the screw length with no problems ... In fact, I do not think this tab can be easily broken by hand, not at least with the syringe epoxy I used.

Saw one fly a couple of weeks ago and just had to add it to get one.

When at the hobby shop was confused by the ARF, BNF, PNP and RTF versions ??

The hobby shop owner turned me on to the **IAGAMSAESCBYUYORAL version.

**It's already got a motor, servos and ESC but you use your own radio and lipo version.

Joe M.

Originally Posted by brookfreeman71

bdshort-

Thanks for the comment! I am using the GoPro Hero 960; much like the GoPro Hero HD, but will not shoot on 1080p or 720p 60 frames per second. I shot my vid in 720p @ 30 fps.

Brook

NICE video!! And cool it was the 4th flight!! This vid makes me think more about the GoPro Hero 960?! I think all the vids I've seen have been shot with the Hero HD, but what a nice picture with the 960! I've been dissappointed with my FlyCamOne2 so I switched to the cheap 808 Key Chain Spy Cameras.

Had my 7th flight today but the wind was blowing too hard for me here in Southern California. At full throttle had just enough power to fly forward back to my launch site. Landed after 6mins getting tossed around in the sky, but the approach to landing was a piece of cake! So much wind over the wings providing lift I landed with the plane at a stand still!! Added flaps for fun and she floated wings level right at me feet.

Originally Posted by Wizardofozone

... (they seem to break right at the screw hole, ) ...

The stock tab is not a great design... When plastic has to flow around a pin to create a through-hole in a mold, it forms a "knit line" or "weld line" where the flow meets up again on the other side of the mold pin. This will always be a weak point in the plastic. No avoiding it, unless the hole is later drilled as a second op.

To compound the problem, the designer then added a countersink for a flat head screw. Thin plastic hates countersunk screws. The taper of the screw will place increasing stress on the perimeter of the hole as it is tightened. Add that to a weld line, and you're just asking for trouble.

I'm keeping an eye on my tabs after every landing. I feel it's just a matter if time before the inevitable crack at the hole. Maybe I'll get some crummy no-fly weather before then so I can have an excuse to do my planned magnet mod!

Not sure what you mean by dampened the fuse, but the rest makes sense... the GoPro is on my list of things to buy, and I think the RP will make a great video platform. Is there a size difference between the 960 and HD?

I got one of these a few weeks ago, and on the maiden (unmodified) the right aileron servo pooped out in a way that also caused the left one to stop responding (I had them on the supplied y-harness). I was giving aileron input when this happened, so there wasn't much hope of recovery and the model hit the ground pretty hard. Fuse was broken into 3 pieces.

I called horizon support and they agreed to send me a new fuse and a servo, and additionally threw in the qualifier that "this is a one-time thing, we can't be responsible for flight damage". This kind of pissed me off but whatever, I figured at least I was going to get the fuse replaced and have a more-or-less like-new plane, which I figured they owed me given that the one I paid $whatever for was defective from the factory.

Parts arrived yesterday. Replacement servo has a long wire, but not long enough to reach the wing root. For a model that was supposed to be "ready to fly in the time it takes to charge the battery" (I think that's a more or less direct quote) I'm pretty disappointed. I'm going to replace all the servos (since I have to reinstall all but one anyway) with ones I don't think are going to fail in 10 minutes, and I expect to enjoy the model again, but dang, is this an outlier or has anyone else had an experience like this?