Originally Posted by 1911tex

I do not understand the need for aftermarket props.

Speaking for myself...it's about quality and efficiency not blazing speed or 3D performance.

One only has to look at a stock prop and a pair of Aeronaut or Graupner blades to see the difference. Further still, I dislike the plastic yoke and setscrew adapter of the stock setup. I have the full Aeronaut setup on both Radians.

But then if Horizon hadn't equipped the original Radian with a spontaneously exploding prop I probably never would have though about aftermarket props.

......Mike

Originally Posted by jchunter

Yes, I would rather explore stock FW than to jump into modified FW that probably has its own (different) bugs. Moreover, there is no guarantee that the modified FW will be supported or bug fixed in the future.

I was surprised that so many of the 9X sailplane mixes were such a trainwreck (Butterfly, Camber, Reflex,..). Even the custom mixes have many side effects and exceptions. Seems like a bad case of spaghetti coding.

In any case, full span aileron mode works fine and it extends the aileron differential settings to the flaps. Rolls seem quite axial, now.

I tried to custom mix a camber switch but the ailerons insisted on cambering one wing and reflexing the other. Not a good solution. Then I tried cambering just the flaps, which did work and they were still able to follow the ailerons as flaperons. However, this mix had some unfortuate side effects if the pilot fumble fingered the switches.

So, I ended up with a second flight mode, using ID1, which decoupled the flaps from the ailerons and used a knob (Pitch Trim is easier) to experiment with slight flap camber for thermals and max camber for landing. The main drawback is that I can't see the degree of camberfrom a distance and the knob gives no hints ...
I'll take a look at your mixes.

Yeah, so true! I fly helicopters too with the Th9x v2 which fortunately is a basically bugfree part when helicopters are concerned. The knob thing is problematic, also takes too much time to activate.

Originally Posted by dee-grose

What color are the blades? Did it come with a spinner? Are they in a package?

I picked up some more of those 11X6 props at the LHS today.(I know I posted that they where 11X8 but that's what it looked liked was stamped on the prop. It IS an 11X6 not an 11X8.) Here is the link:http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...odID=EFLP1106F
Part# EFLP1106F

Rick

Originally Posted by hammer833

I picked up some more of those 11X6 props at the LHS today.(I know I posted that they where 11X8 but that's what it looked liked was stamped on the prop. It IS an 11X6 not an 11X8.) Here is the link:http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...odID=EFLP1106F
Part# EFLP1106F

Rick

I was thinking you may have been referring to that 11x6 prop. That's the one that comes with the E-flite Ascent 450. Let us know how it does.

Originally Posted by dee-grose

I was thinking you may have been referring to that 11x6 prop. That's the one that comes with the E-flite Ascent 450. Let us know how it does.

I tried it last weekend and the RP climbs almost vertical, about 80* to 85* at a good clip. After a 30sec motor run it is at about 1000'. I know this because there was a 1000' ceiling that day and at 28sec the RP was starting to disappear into the base of the clouds. I put the Amp meter on it today and it pulls a peak of 20.31 Amps and 19.54Amps after 30sec with the stock battery. It's about the same speed in level flight but pulls like the dickens in a climb, a vast improvement in vertical performance over the stock prop!!

Rick

I may have missed your mentioning it, but does the 11x6 of the Ascent have to be modified to fit and does it fold nicely along to fuse.

Originally Posted by e-gull

I may have missed your mentioning it, but does the 11x6 of the Ascent have to be modified to fit and does it fold nicely along to fuse.

You have to drill the holes for the pins bigger and that's it for the mods. And it folds back nicely against the fuse.

Rick

Someone was asking awhile back if the HK orange Rx worked with DSMX. I just up graded the firmware on my DX8 to DSMX and the orange Rx works fine.

Rick

Well NOW I UNDERSTAND! I just got my props in the mail and put on an 11x8 and WOW! A totally different plane. Climbs to well above my eyesite comfort in seconds. I was so disappointed with the pro in comparison to my R-1 but now I have to say the R-1 will be getting some much deserved rest. The pro actually climbs better and faster the the original now. I balanced it withe a 3s 11.1 2100 and I couldn't be happier.

this 11x6 sounds interesting I will have to investigate this at my LHS or next time I make a HH order. Didnt I need to get one of those new mCPx helis

Originally Posted by JumpySticks

Not sure if Santa buys in bulk or when he made the purchase, but as of Christmas at least the plane is being sold with the correct prop, a 9.75X7.5_1.

The new "Good" props are marked exactly the same as the old "Bad" props so you can't tell the difference by looking at the factory markings. The pitch difference at the tips is so small I couldn't tell the difference by looking at them side-by-side. I'm glad I marked the new ones as soon as I got them out of the package so I didn't get them mixed up on my work bench. Now I'm sure that everyone else's workbench is a lot more organized than mine, so that step may not be needed by most folks .

The only way to tell the difference between your original blades and the good replacement blades is to put them on the motor and run them up on a wattmeter and see the difference in power input (Watts). The higher wattage draw blades are the new design blades. If your power draw is the same for both sets of blades, then they are both of the new design.

McD

Be certain to check the amp draw with any non original equipment prop. The 480 motor is said to be rated for 20 amps continuous. A 10x8 Graupner pulls 21 amps on mine with a freshly charged battery (after 20 seconds its down to ~20. An 11x8 pulls 25 - 26 amps which is not good.

Originally Posted by PHMX

Yeah, so true! I fly helicopters too with the Th9x v2 which fortunately is a basically bugfree part when helicopters are concerned. The knob thing is problematic, also takes too much time to activate.

I tried to use the "Offset" parameter in the mix for camber/flaps to establish -say- full clockwise for a small camber (for thermaling) and the other extreme for full flaps. However the Offset parameter has no effect, leaving a large dead zone. Just another annoying 9X bug. If only it worked, the two knob extremes would let me preposition the right knob position so it would be instantly available when the switch if flipped. I also tried using mixes 6 and 7, which have a custom mix but couldn't get them to work properly either.

Flap servo signing or squealing. I can minimizes the noise by adjusting sub trim but once I cycle the flaps the noise returns. I have seen this issue discussed on other threads and for the most part they say you just have to live with it and horizon doesn’t offer any help.

I'd just like to get some thoughts from other radian pro owners. I’m using the dx6i with the flaps on the gear channel.

Originally Posted by KDunk

Flap servo signing or squealing. I can minimizes the noise by adjusting sub trim but once I cycle the flaps the noise returns. I have seen this issue discussed on other threads and for the most part they say you just have to live with it and horizon doesn’t offer any help.

I'd just like to get some thoughts from other radian pro owners. I’m using the dx6i with the flaps on the gear channel.

The Flap servos are digital and make that noise.