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Nov 16, 2010, 11:43 PM
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For Sale

Heavily Modified custom built 2.4ghz radio, Comparable to 4PK. $250

Ok well this has been my project for the last few weeks and it is now Complete I am selling because i have had requests for a diy thread and i am working on a ultra advance radio, and it seems to have the potential of double what the 4pk has to offer but its carrying a hefty price tag that my wallet can't afford to complete anytime soon. I have about 8 hours of testing on it now it seems great and wonderful to use. I'm selling the radio, rx, programmer cord, and bind plug. All for $250. Additional RXs are about 10-15$

If you have a star i'll take $5 off the price:mrgreen:

Ok so i am going to be taking snipetts out of this pdf

I will say now, all features below need to be programmed on a computer with windows OS. All software will be included. There is a throttle trim, steering trims and a ch 4 reverse switch for the rtc lever. That is all, most the other stuff doesn't usually ever need to be trimmed hardly ever after set up so i didn't worry about those.

So if you are interested in what you read here visit the pdf for all the info.

2. Radio Features

This radio will be completely computer programmable featuring

-3 mixs or 1 if you use channels 5&6
-Trim on all 6 channels, physical trim pots on channels 1&2 for throttle and steering
-Epa's on all 6 channels
-Virtually unlimited model memory
-Channel reversing on all 6 channels
-Dual rates on channel 1, 2 and 4, can be programmed to a switch
-Also this was originally a airplane radio so throttle and pith curves are also programmable but i don't know how to work them.
-Frequency hopping 2.4ghz technology.
-4 aa cell battery compartment to keep weight to a minimum.

Ch1. Is controlled by the steering wheel, ch1 is marked on the rx, this should position is for your steering servo

Ch2. Is Controlled by the throttle trigger, there is a small silver round piece that extrudes from the plastic case this is a potentiometer, it is connected to the trigger please do not apply excessive pressure as it may damage it.

Ch.3 Is Controlled by a momentary 3 position switch located on the far back side of the upper portion of the radio. . Ideal for digs or winches because it will spring back to center after pressure is released

Ch4. Is Controlled by an rtc lever. This lever is used for rear dig, overdriving/underdriveing the rear axle, or possibly a winch.

Ch.5 Is a virtual channel it can either be controlled by the non-momentary 3 position switch located by the steering wheel The use of this channel requires the use of 1 of your 3 mixs. You can also use this Ch as a mix alone and not have it to a switch it can also be used as your rear esc ch for the 4ws steer switch. Ideal for lights, diff lockers, tranny speeds, winches because it has locked positions

Ch.5 Is a virtual channel it can either be controlled by the non-momentary 3 position switch located by the steering wheel The use of this channel requires the use of 1 of your 3 mixs. You can also use this Ch as a mix alone and not have it to a switch it can also be used as your rear esc ch for the 4ws steer switch. Ideal for lights, diff lockers, tranny speeds, winches because it has locked positions

Vr's are located in the 4ws switch and on the ch 5, 6 switch by the steering wheel

Switchs (A-B) one is located in the 4ws switch and the other is the blue button on the handle

One of the most unique features on this radio not found on others not found on other radios. I have installed a rtc stick which can give you complete rear dig, or tone it down for a low percentage to overdrive or underdrive the rear axle. So this is how it works.

You push the button on the handle and this will mix and un mix the rear esc to the front esc. It will also turn the over/under drive off. The front esc is Ch2 which is the trigger, and the rear esc is ch.4 the rtc stick. So when it is un mixed you have front only with your trigger. And rear only on the rtc lever with full 100% variable rear dig. This will allow complete independent control of both escís at the same time. Now if you don't have it pushed in you will be in the mix position The front will mix both front and and rear together with the trigger but still allow you to use the rtc stick to perform its functions, So you can overdrive/underdive your rear axle actively as your driving and set the max percentage for under drive and under drive controlled by the rtc lever. Also in the mix you can adjust the up and down rates if you want a permanent overdrive/underdrive and use the rtc stick to cancel it out or make it greater.

The Overdrive/Underdrive feature on the radio activates and deactivates dual rates. So when it is in the position where dual rates is off you will be able to have full rear digging power from the rtc lever, but if you have it on you can control the percentage of full power to be your maximum amount power available to the rear controlled by the rtc stick. Dual rates donít affect the mix.

Ok now I have installed a reverse switch for ch4 only. Located in the batt box. This is so you can change the direction of travel that the rtc lever does. If you use the digital mix in the software it will work like crab steer, not good when used on escís. So I fixed it with a manual switch. It is hard to explain so you will have to try it for yourself. Make sure the radio is turned off though when you flip this switch, you can when it is on but may ruin the radio on a rare occasion.
There are also two little pots (blue things with a white top) These are passive trim for the 4ws selector switch, basically in the different positions these will trim out your rear esc or front esc (dependent on the pos) so you will have all the same center points in the different position. The reason for this is because the 4ws switch is analog so variances in wire lengths solder joints, quality of switch will all affect center so when changing in different positions will cause the centers to change a little, so these will trim it out. I'm not sure which one does which positions, you will just have to guess and check. You shouldn't have to mess with these that often

Ok So thats about all so i will include a TX, RX, USB Programmer cord, Bind Plug, software to use, manual, and my help if needed. The price is $250 shipped here in the US or $240 for local pickup. I will warranty this for 1 week after you get it, this should cover you if it doesn't work, (It will be a insured package so if the usps trashes the box for some reason its covered, it works when it leaves my hands) and if it just stops working in the future (from now till i remember how i built it) i will also be willing to fix it to the best of my abilities to get it fixed right, dependent on what caused it i may charge for parts, (30$ max plus partial shipping)

Heres a pic of what you will get

More pics can be found here

in the pics theres velcro on the backside, that will be removed (unless you want it) and you will see there is a gap where the cases splits apart, thats because there was no screw holding it together when i took the pics. And the holes in the upper part of the case is plugged

I'm running tight on pm space so if it fills up email me at [email protected]

Thanks for looking through the whole post if you made it this far, sorry if got bored, mad, confused or fell asleep"thumbsup"
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