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Sprague Condenser/Capacitor
Hello All -
Wondering what the vintage of this condenser/capacitor is? From my research it appears to be 1950s or so. Has anyone seen a similar condenser/capacitor used on an ignition engine? Thinking of using this is a display with a Hoof Fleetwind .60. Regards... |
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TerribleT, your capacitor is larger than needed, but will work. The following is from the Model Engine News web site:
The Capacitor One authoritative source who should know better says that there is a difference between a capacitor and a condenser. There isn't. When two electrically conductive surfaces are separated by an insulating dielectric—which may be air—they exhibit an electrical property which we can measure, and call "capacitance". Once upon a time, and principally in the US, such devices were known as condensers. Regardless of what you call them, the property in question is measured in Farads (after Sir Michael Faraday), but since a whole Farad is a very large and dangerous thing not often encountered anywhere, we conveniently prefix it with "micro" as it's much easier to say "I'd like a 0.2 micro Farad capacitor please", than "give me a 0.0000002 Farad condenser", which is what you'll be looking for as the thing to wire across the ignition points mentioned above. The normal abbreviation for a micro Farad is "μF", "uF", or "mF". The F is always a capital letter because it's a person's name. The lower case "m" is an abbreviation for "micro", which should be represented using the Greek letter "mu" (μ). The use of the lower case "u" is a convenience for representing μ using typography that lacks Greek letters. Aside: Astute readers will be wondering how we differentiate between "milli" (10-3) and "micro" (10-6) using this scheme. We don't. Seems everyone agreed that there is no such thing as a milli-Farad! The optimum value required will vary with coil design and characteristics, but it is not particularly critical; a value between 0.1μF and 0.5μF will be fine. However, another property of a capacitor is its working voltage. This is the maximum voltage that can be safely applied across it before the insulating dielectric breaks down. For reasons lost in time, the working voltage is represented as "VW" (volts, working). For our requirements, a component rated for about 150VW is required. More does no harm, but as expected, a higher working voltage imposes a thicker, or different dielectric material, requiring more plate area for the same capacity, so size and weight go up. |
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Not sure if it was the Model Engine News web site but I've read the same somewhere. Nonetheless thanks for providing the information Steve_P.
Still trying to establish if the pictured condenser/capacitor is period correct for use in a display of the Hoof Fleetwind 60. No one thus far has been able to confirm such but from what I've read so far (several other sources) the pictured condenser/capacitor is one used in earlier applications. Thanks again. Regards, |
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I have restored antique radios, and that type of capacitor was commonly seen in sets of the mid 30's to probably after WW2, so it is most likely period correct. Some have date codes on them, such as 39-11, which would be the eleventh week of 1939.
Be aware, though, that if you plan on using it, you may be disappointed. These old paper caps will slowly absorb moisture through imperfections in the wax coating and become leaky, which means they won't hold a charge properly. Much better to use a modern replacement for running. Good luck, Paul |
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Good information Paul.
I've checked closely and there doesn't seem to be a date code on this one. Good info to know for later use. Don't / didn't intend to use the condenser/capacitor to operate an engine. Just to use it in a display of an engine and the associated components needed to run said engine. Learning something new every day. Thanks Paul. Regards, |
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Last edited by Terrible T; May 02, 2017 at 08:23 PM.
Reason: grammer
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Today's "Mystery Sparkie" (thought to be pre-war Japanese)
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O&R 23 needle valve question.
Hi everyone,
I'm looking for some information regarding the thread on the O&R 23 needle valve. I have just bought an engine but the needle won't screw down more than about a turn before it tightens up. A different needle (not mine) screws down properly so the problem appears to be in the needle itself and not the tube sticking up out of the tank. Can anyone tell me the thread size as I need to remove the actual needle so as to be able to re-tap thread. Thank you, Dave. |
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G WILLIE,
Thanks for the reply. The photo I enclosed was just to illustrate he point, but was not actually of my engine although mine does look the same so it probably is and Auto Craft universal as you say. Many thanks again for the information. Does anyone know what the correct O&R thread should be as it will probably be easier to make a new one than to try to find one here in the UK. Dave |
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Dave, PM me your address and I'll send you the correct needle.
Are you certain that you have the right fuel pick-up tube? |
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Spark plug Adapter?
Hi,
I'm looking for a 3/8-24 to 1/4-32 spark plug adapter. A 10MM to 1/4-32 adapter is easy to find (see pic below) but 3/8-24 spark plugs are a very old standard and I've been unable to find such adapter. Any information or link will be appreciated, thanks. Chris. |
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