New Glider from HobbyKING-Phoenix 2000 - Page 142 - RC Groups
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Aug 09, 2012, 07:00 AM
christian theme park operator
H2SO4's Avatar
Originally Posted by uberjay
If I need to drop the lipo down to a 1600 I have one or two of those.... just would like to have more if I can do it.
It depends on what characteristic(s) of the plane you wish to emphasise. Floating is this one's forte, so it stands to reason that you may wish to maximise its float-ability by using light batteries. I rather like my P2K on a 1000mAh lipo

2200mAh will of course yield more flight time, but the motor will have to work harder and the plane will lose altitude much more noticeably once you cut the throttle. And besides, with the stock equipment and stock tray positions, it's necessary to shove a 2200mAh battery so far back that it's essentially no longer sitting on the battery tray

Give it a go with the 1600mAh. I'm confident you'll prefer the way it flies with a lighter battery.
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Aug 09, 2012, 09:45 AM
Registered User
Originally Posted by uberjay
The CG question still stands... for a noob at sailplanes, any suggestions / recommendations on a starting CG?
It's my opinion that the stock CG of 70mm is not a good CG for this plane and I would not recommend anyone to start at this. Ditto for a 2200mAh battery.

I find it easier to fly with CG at 80mm or more. The whole plane becomes a joy to fly with faster and tighter turns. You feel much more in control. Use a 1000 to 1600 mAh battery and try to get your receiver and ESC as far back as possible. My RX is in the tail and the ESC is near the servos.

I lifted the LE of my Horiz stab by 2mm and at 85-90mm it will fly nicely inverted with only a smalle amount of down elevator needed to hold it level. Also due to the reduced UP elevator trim needed the plane doesn't try to loop under throttle.

In light winds I have flown at CGs over 90mm. Here things are really agile and you can float nice and slow, but you need to watch out in steep dives as it will really pickup speed and wont pull out without your help. It will start to 'tuck in' a little as speed picks up.
Aug 09, 2012, 09:49 AM
Registered User
Originally Posted by uberjay
The CG question still stands... for a noob at sailplanes, any suggestions / recommendations on a starting CG?
Get the feel for you Phoenix and try different CGs with hand launches across an oval, trimming for level flight (good excercise running to pick up your plane after each). If you can't get a nice gentle smooth landing on it's belly then shift your battery back more and retrim elevator on the next throw.
Aug 09, 2012, 10:04 AM
Registered User
Originally Posted by Sir Dumb Thumb
I would start at 70 mm
Thanks a bunch. I wound up a shade less than that with a 1600 mah lipo this morning for the maiden and it flew great... kept it simple and only did one roll ;-). Landed fine and everything was good.

Aug 09, 2012, 09:56 PM
Old Prop Buster
Sir Dumb Thumb's Avatar
Originally Posted by andyqbutler
Hi guys, new to this thread and RC in general after a few years away.
Used to love gliding and bought the Phoenix 2000 when it appeared in the UK warehouse. Using a Turnigy Aerodrive 2836 and a Hobbywing 40A ESC with a seperate 5A UBEC.
I'm using and Aurora 9, so would any of you like to share your setup?
Welcome Andy, I am a Spektrum user but try searching the thread with "Aurora 9" and you get 14 results. Maybe ask over in the Aircraft General / Radio section?
Aug 10, 2012, 12:26 AM
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HoosierGuy's Avatar
I received the two shafts from Hobbyking but both seem too short. I guess I will order this motor from hobbyking now:

With this motor do I need a 9x6 folding prop? Will this one work?

Based on the discussion for this prop on the hobbyking site, I'm not sure it's actually a 9x6 prop or 8x6 prop.
Aug 10, 2012, 03:18 PM
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fbm224's Avatar
Originally Posted by HoosierGuy
With this motor do I need a 9x6 folding prop? Will this one work?
Your altitude above sea level also plays a role on selecting the right prop, and check that the shaft diameter on the motor matches the one on the propeller hub (in this case it does).

You can use to evaluate different propellers

And before flying, test your setup with a wattmeter to make sure you are not to close to the limits of your components (motor watts/amps, ESC amps, LiPo discharge rate).
Aug 10, 2012, 03:41 PM
Registered User
JLT_GTI's Avatar
Well i cant believe this..

today i was fixing the motor mount as the exterior metal one had detached due to vibrations and after some trying i discovered that the internal plywood one too had snapped as well.. so i have to get the motor out and figure what to put from the inside now... this is bad news as unless we have lift days the Phoenix is out for now
Aug 12, 2012, 12:32 AM
Registered User
Jeebs77's Avatar

servo tray cover

I added a servo tray cover to make sure my wing wires don't get caught up in and inhibit the servo movement. i had seen a couple of posts expressing concern about the wires interfering with servo operation so this is what I came up with. I simply cut it out of a soda bottle and inserted it into the space between the wing bolt tray and the fuselage. I will try it without glue first since it seems to fit pretty well.
Aug 12, 2012, 04:53 PM
Registered User

Phoenix Evolution


Im a past flyer getting back into the hobby (after about 18 yrs away) and have ordered an RTF Phoenix Evolution 1.6 - 2.6.

I have read a reasonable amount of the posts on this forum and am keen to recieve any comments/advise on the glider I have ordered.

Most of the posts here focus on the P2K, how many of these issues are also issues with the Evolution? It is clear that the clevis are below par so I have ordered replacements. Are there any other things I need to look at on the Phoenix?

My plan is to initially start out as 'stock' as possible while I get back into flying. The box should turn up in the next day or to I can't wait...excited, and a bit nervy on it.

Cheers. Peter
Aug 12, 2012, 05:05 PM
Registered User
Hi, Peter, and welcome back!

I picked up the hobby after a 7 year layoff in March and I'm extremely excited by the new technologies. I'm pretty sure that the fuselage is the same for the 2000 and Evolution. Aside from the clevises about the only thing is to just make sure that the joints, and screws, and fittings are secure. The stock setup seems to be pretty good unless you find something you want to tweak to suit your style. Have fun!
Aug 13, 2012, 12:48 AM
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HoosierGuy's Avatar
Go the Turnigy 2836 1000kv ordered! Now the typical three week wait.
Aug 13, 2012, 07:25 AM
Registered User
Hi Peter,
used to live in New Plymouth ( many moons ago ) but still have family connections there.
I can imagine flying over Back Beach with a mini camera on board and getting some great video.
Very sorry to hear about the tragedy with the Spotswood Teacher and students.
I have a Phoenix 2000 and as per a couple of posts earlier I think they are the greatest
bang for bucks ever and could not believe how good it was stock. I fly mine every other day in all sorts of conditions and have thrashed the proverbial out of it. I use a 2200ma in middle of
battery former and that works for the COG for me.
I have seen the Evolution on Ebay but have not seen one in the flesh yet. Interesting to see if the extra 600mm w/span would up the anti with thermal lift. Knowing the Naki weather conditions I reckon you are going to be flying with the smaller wing in stiff conditions !!!
Woulnt mind a pic of the engine mount set up and what motor prop combination you get.
Aug 13, 2012, 09:03 AM
Registered User
Little Black Duck's Avatar
G'day all,
Hmm, this has proved to be a very interesting thread, especially as I'm expecting a P2k to be delivered shortly.
However although I learned a great deal about the aircraft and some of the related problems with it, it would have been less involved if I'd not had to wade through the many camera related posts, which although of passing interest, should, I think, have been located elsewhere in a separate thread ...
I will be scrapping all the electronic bits, together with all the servos replaced with improved quality 9gm servos in the wing, and possibly larger for the R & E.
I asked for guidance elsewhere in RCG as to whether the motor/ESC combo I've chosen would be suitable to replace the obviously unsuitable ones supplied, and received a positive response to what I've chosen to use.
I'll keep you posted on how it goes together, with any improvements deemed necessary ... Several gleaned from this thread ... Thanks. ...
Usually in the past this Little Black Duck has designed and builds his own RE only, spoiler equipped e-Sailplanes, as being good enough for my type of sport thermalling, but having been persuaded to try Ailerons, together with Flaps, it was suggested that the P2k would be a relatively good training aircraft on how to do this before trying to design my own with a more 'full-house' wing.
Any comments welcome .?
Aug 13, 2012, 09:19 AM
christian theme park operator
H2SO4's Avatar
Originally Posted by Little Black Duck
Any comments welcome .?
The stock motor is fine for 30sec bursts or less, and for general flying. The only thing it can't do is rip up the sky like a hotliner at constant WOT.

The stock ESC is dodgy but probably OK for 4 servos (without flaps). It's the BEC that is the most suspect part. Load it up with 6 servos and configure 5 of them to auto-deploy on a switch (crow), and the transient current spike might just cause the BEC voltage to slip to the point where the Rx shuts down or reboots.

A 40A ESC with a switching 3A BEC (or greater) is a good bet for this bird.

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