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Feb 25, 2014, 02:22 AM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2500GENE
...tape from the top with a V cut as not to disturb airflow over the top of the wing. This will give you the mechanical aileron differential ...
I like this... and see it in my future.
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Feb 25, 2014, 08:21 PM
Registered User
hawl131's Avatar
Ok, I have look for a while on this blog. I have a buddy that is thinking of getting a red super cub that uses the nicd battery, I want to switch it to a lipo, can the stock esc/receiver handle the voltage increase? I have been flying for 3 years and I will be mentoring him, I fly gas, glow and electric.
Last edited by hawl131; Feb 25, 2014 at 08:46 PM.
Feb 25, 2014, 08:23 PM
We Begin bombing in 5 Minutes
quitcherbitchen's Avatar
No you have to buy a separate ESC, but you can still use the receiver.
Latest blog entry: Freewing V2 Me 262 revival
Feb 25, 2014, 08:28 PM
Why so serious?
2500GENE's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by hawl131
Ok, I have look for a while on this blog. I have a busy that is thinking of getting a red super cub that uses the nicd battery, I want to switch it to a lipo, can the stock esc/receiver handle the voltage increase? I have been flying for 3 years and I will be mentoring him, I fly gas, glow and electric.
Yes after you pull the jumper.
Are you buying a used one?
Feb 25, 2014, 08:34 PM
Registered User
hawl131's Avatar
He is, Its new in box, never flown. Where is the jumper, is it on the RX circuit board? I tought myself on the LP, I know the cub like the back of my hand but the LP was different.
Last edited by hawl131; Feb 25, 2014 at 08:46 PM.
Feb 25, 2014, 09:13 PM
BANDITRCN28
cvoyles's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by hawl131
He is, Its new in box, never flown. Where is the jumper, is it on the RX circuit board? I tought myself on the LP, I know the cub like the back of my hand but the LP was different.

Yes it is on the esc close to where the ACT sensors plugged in at. just pull it out.
Last edited by cvoyles; Feb 25, 2014 at 09:41 PM.
Feb 25, 2014, 09:21 PM
Registered User
hawl131's Avatar
Ok, thanks guys, I saw one thing on it as well I should prop it down to a 10/6? Any one use a APC electric?
Feb 25, 2014, 09:39 PM
BANDITRCN28
cvoyles's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by hawl131
Ok, thanks guys, I saw one thing on it as well I should prop it down to a 10/6? Any one use a APC electric?

I never did prop down I continued using the 10x8 prop because I wasnt planning on flying wide open all the time. but the choice is yours or your friends. You can start with the 10x6 and go from there.

Added picture in above post about jumper.
Feb 25, 2014, 09:58 PM
Registered User
hawl131's Avatar
Thanks for the picture, that will help, as for the prop, while he is training he won't need speed and learn throttle control anyways. As for me I love speed, that is why I have gassers. Lol
Feb 25, 2014, 10:11 PM
BANDITRCN28
cvoyles's Avatar
You are welcome for the pic. I cant believe I still have my original receiver here and was able to walk right up to it..
Good luck to him on his flying!!
Feb 25, 2014, 10:41 PM
Epilepsy Awareness
Flying High Mike's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2500GENE
Sounds like a wiener.

Hinge and or tape from the top with a V cut as not to disturb airflow over the top of the wing. This will give you the mechanical aileron differential you will need. Once everything is cool sailing then work the flaps in when you're ready to float that boat.

Oscar says Hi.
Quote:
Originally Posted by North_of_49
I like this... and see it in my future.
Sorry Guys, I don't get this. Is that the same thing that guy did in the beginning of that vid I posted (page back)?

BTW, any opinions on the way that Guy did the 90* cut and then taped on both sides? I know it's not pretty but, it does seem strong, easy and practical.

@north, I may give the flaps a tad more. I still have a bit of room to play with between the edge of the flap and the wing root. I'll have to double check that. BTW Bro, that concoction of micro balloons and Super Phatic is awesome

Thanks for all your input Guys. Much appreciated.

Mike.
Feb 25, 2014, 10:49 PM
Registered User
Griphin's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by North_of_49
Mike,
4" width is more than a little on the anemic side for flaps on a plane of this scale... if you're going to go through the trouble of adding them, you'll want to actually get some performance out of them. If you're going to leave them that short then you should do the slotted flaps like on my Glasair that I know you've been following... significantly more lift. They still might be too short.
My Glassair flaps are 10"... slightly larger scale plane... still shorter than on the full scale plane
Those hinges look pretty good. I've ordered some different one to experiment. Some of them are hatch hinges.
Feb 25, 2014, 11:18 PM
Registered User
hawl131's Avatar
Thanks again cvolyes. It is amazing what we have still laying around. I think he will like having the extra flying time.
Feb 25, 2014, 11:59 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chap1012
Sorry Guys, I don't get this. Is that the same thing that guy did in the beginning of that vid I posted (page back)?

BTW, any opinions on the way that Guy did the 90* cut and then taped on both sides? I know it's not pretty but, it does seem strong, easy and practical.

@north, I may give the flaps a tad more. I still have a bit of room to play with between the edge of the flap and the wing root. I'll have to double check that. BTW Bro, that concoction of micro balloons and Super Phatic is awesome

Thanks for all your input Guys. Much appreciated.

Mike.
Mike, if I understand correctly, what Gene was saying is to cut the V only on the bottom of the aileron but cut it full depth so your tape hinge, placed on the top-side, is the only thing holding the aileron on. This will give the aileron full surface area in the UP position but less surface area in the DOWN position... effectively giving you a bit of mechanical differential.

It's the same thing as doing a tape hinge with a V cut both top and bottom with the tape hinge in the center, but this will give you the different (effective) throws due to the difference in effective surface area when UP or DOWN and due to the geometry of the offset location of the hinge (I think).

Gene can confirm if this is what he meant.

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Last edited by North_of_49; Feb 26, 2014 at 12:12 AM.
Feb 26, 2014, 12:18 AM
Epilepsy Awareness
Flying High Mike's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by North_of_49
Mike, if I understand correctly, what Gene was saying is to cut the V only on the bottom of the aileron but cut it full depth so your tape hinge, placed on the top-side, is the only thing holding the aileron on. This will give the aileron full surface area in the UP position but less surface area in the DOWN position... effectively giving you a bit of mechanical differential.

It's the same thing as doing a tape hinge with a V cut symmetrically both top and bottom, but this will give you the different (effective) throws of mechanical differential due to the difference in effective surface area when UP or DOWN.

Gene can confirm if this is what he meant.

Attachment 6544031
OK, Cool Bro. Now I get it. I wonder if the angle cut is similar as if you were doing plastic hinges whereas there is a cut on both sides. I'm thinking about 35º cut on both the underside of the wing and aileron. That would give it a 70º overall down aileron. Does that sound too much?

The diagram almost looks like a 45º cut.

Oh GENE, thanks for the great idea

Mike.


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