Originally Posted by Plane Insane RC

I just ordered 2 JR DS285 digitals for the rudder and elevator for now. I might try the HS-5045 for the wing.

Atta boy, there is hope for you yet!

Ryan - they Hyperions, which most of the "big boys" use, are only $2.00 more a piece.

Jim, I found the JR's for under $18 each shipped.

I just broke down and ordered some Airtronics for the wing. For some reason I feel better about spending money if I complain about it first and then make multipule purchases. Getting the "We miss you save $20 on a $50 purchase" from Tower Hobbies helps too. So much for starting with cheap $5 servos. I blame you guys for this.

I still need to figure out the power setup. I'm pretty sure I have a small lipo. I just hope it fits.

Ryan wrote: I just ordered 2 JR DS285 digitals for the rudder and elevator for now.

Oh I am sorry. I wasn't clear. Yeah you definitively want the 285s for rudder and elevator, so you did great there, and the price you got is good too.

I don't want to belabor the wing servos. You choose what seems you good. I just recommend the Hyperion DS09 servos.

Adrian's idea was good too. With my B3 I use a Lipo 360 and have to use a voltage regulator, which Adrian does not have to use.

Originally Posted by jfinch

Jim, I'm currently using 0.020 music wire I bought from McMasterCarr. I've got a big roll. If you need some just stop by. Mine is not stainless either.

JonF - Thanks for the offer. After reading your post, I began rethinking what I will do. I also have a roll of 0.020 wire, which is the one that got corroded. So I tried an experiment. I put some WD-40 on a paper towel and wiped the wire down well. Then as I inserted the rod into the Teflon sleeve, I spread on a little more.

I am in the process of putting the rods back on now, so we will see what happens.

I don't like doing that Jim. The liquid lubricant will attract dust and will eventually gum up. A dry graphite lub might be a better choice. I completely clean my wires using acetone on a rag to get all the oils off before installing into the tubes. This really minimizes drag. Just keep them out of the rain and they'll last longer than the plane.

Ryan, unless the world stops spinning, which there is a chance.......... you will want a 4 cell pack of AAA batteries in the nose of the TS for balance. Lipos are sexy and cool, but you will need the weight up in the nose so it might as well be a battery vs lead.

Go to Cosco and get the Eneloop rechargable packs as they dont discharge and have good capaicity. Seriously, just go get 4 rechargable AAA's right now and solder up a 4 cell pack. DO IT NOW!!!!!

Prepare to fall off your seats.... Oleg confirmed the ob on the first flight....

Damn he flew the last 2 mean....

Looks like I'M in good company. OB is my middle name. I promise to work on that this weekend...

Originally Posted by JONBOYLEMON

Ryan, unless the world stops spinning, which there is a chance.......... you will want a 4 cell pack of AAA batteries in the nose of the TS for balance. Lipos are sexy and cool, but you will need the weight up in the nose so it might as well be a battery vs lead.

Go to Cosco and get the Eneloop rechargable packs as they dont discharge and have good capaicity. Seriously, just go get 4 rechargable AAA's right now and solder up a 4 cell pack. DO IT NOW!!!!!

Four AAA cells is a lot of weight! Are you sure you need that much? That much capacity is nice. But if you build the tail end light, and shorten the boom a bit like a lot of guys do, you might get away with 2/3AAA cells instead (400mAh).

Is the 'Viper' config (3 + 1) the best shape for a NiMH pack on the TopSky?

I dont know if that would be any better mike as it puts 3 of the cells a ways back vs all 4 almost all the way forward. I did a 4 cell brick on my TSOL and it balanced purfekt.

I saw those Eneloops at costco and nearly purchased them as I was thinking of making some battery packs. How hard is it to solder? How did you configure/solder your 4 cell pack JonB?

Big Hot solder iron and a little servo wire is all you need. Then just use a little goop or CA to hold the cells together, and then do a thin wrap of strapping tape to hold the cells tight.

Hey loosers going to NM. Make Team UT proud and put the hurt on em down there.

And dont forget to adjust your rudders for the different launch conditions down there!!!!

Originally Posted by JONBOYLEMON

I dont know if that would be any better mike as it puts 3 of the cells a ways back vs all 4 almost all the way forward. I did a 4 cell brick on my TSOL and it balanced purfekt.

A brick pack would never fit in the Stobel nose. A viper pack will barely squeeze in. But I guess the TopSky nose is a bit fatter.

Make sure the iron is very hot and don't hold it on the battery terminals very long as it will degrade the cells, especially the Eneloops. I usually sand the ends of the batteries a little and wipe on some flux to help the solder flow.