2Doggs....You can eliminate the binding by opening up the fork at the top at the expense of more slop.

Originally Posted by ridge_racer

2Doggs....You can eliminate the binding by opening up the fork at the top at the expense of more slop.

I'm not getting any binding - and the fork-pin fit seems to be where my slop is developing!

It think it was mhills that pointed out the faults with that arm setup to me about 1.5 yrs ago..Probably the best solution is the new Align setup for the Pro.

OK someone is making me feel old! lol! I still think it was one of the best setups.

If there is one part of the heli to be anal about it is the tail setup. Hook everything up except the servo and move it around, loosen a screw here and there. You will be amaze at how that little bit of resistance will magnify under pressure and in the air. Sometimes we just get lucky!

yes, I reckon most tail gyro problems are actually tail problems....

The problems you are getting 2Doggs could be from the tolerances of the leaderhobby parts. The original should be just as good as the ball and slider most of us are using today, but with the benefit of having the forks to help it from any binding. One of the problems of the setup is if the play is so bad that the forks become the binders.

I have brought this up with the newest setup Align is using. It should work great until one little thing is out of alignment and then it WILL lock up. Right now if your shaft is a tad bent you could fly, but not with the new setup. The new set up should be fantastic until things go bad. Maybe the zero tolerance is what we want. I can just see in the future a lot of people saying, "what were they thinking?"

I have to admit I've not tried the stock Align slider - so all I can compare is the HK clone slider with the plastic Tarot ball and pin type slider.

No matter what I did with the HK slider, it was sloppy. Much of that came from the loose fit of the ball in the cup, which I improved by lining the cup with 3M Magic Tape - a fiddly procedure, but it worked.

That still left slop resulting from the slider tilting. Even if the Align slider is a closer fit on the tail rotor shaft, any play is magnified at the linkage ball.

When I initially fitted the Tarot ball and pin slider and arm, most of the slop was eliminated - since the slider doesn't rock, being moved by both the cup and fork end of the control arm, instead of just on one side. So even with play between the slider bush and the tail rotor shaft, there isn't any tilting of the slider.

Now, after maybe 50 or so flights with the Tarot slider and arm, there seems to be a bit of play developing between the plastic pin and the plastic fork - and the metal yoke seems to have developed a bit of play on the swaged-in brass bush but the tail is still significantly less sloppy than it is with the stock HK parts.

I can see that the new Align tail mechanism, which looks quite similar to the type used by Thunder Tiger on the Mini Titan, promises to give very little slop. Trouble is it only fits the TT tail, (and even then you have to use it with a revised tail housing) and I have the belt tail on my 450's.

My favourite tail mechanism, that seems the least sloppy of all, is the one on my Kyosho Caliber 5 nitro. The tail is mostly plastic, and it uses a double sided control arm, with two replaceable metal pins that operate on a plastic grooved drum on the slider. That eliminates the extra pivots you need on the new Align type mechanism.

I wonder if it's now cheaper to machine stuff from aluminum alloy than to make plastic parts? I can see no other reason for tails on small helis being all metal. After all, properly designed plastic parts can be strong enough, durable, and lighter.

Molding plastic cost a lot more and is harder to duplicate. That is why align is starting to use so much in their new helicopters. Adding all kinds of plastic moldings to the frames so the old cnc parts won't fit. I think Logos showed that making critical parts from plastic makes them lighter and stronger that 90 degree metal and carbon.

(ignore that, wrong thread)

Can someone tell me if there is a good HK 450 GT CCPM Full Alloy ...Build Video online?

I have everything purchased and ready to start my first build.

Richard

I don't know about video, but here are some manuals http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=43239

Originally Posted by rnorth

Can someone tell me if there is a good HK 450 GT CCPM Full Alloy ...Build Video online?

I have everything purchased and ready to start my first build.

Richard

HK450 Build 1 In the box (6 min 2 sec)

Heliflightcenter.com now has Ino-Lab gears and cases.

http://www.heliflightcenter.com/category_s/162.htm

Good to have another source for the gear sets.

They sell the servos for a lot more than what HK sells them at though.

Originally Posted by rnorth

Can someone tell me if there is a good HK 450 GT CCPM Full Alloy ...Build Video online?

I have everything purchased and ready to start my first build.

Richard

I'd recommend this: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL18C3065DA3A05A3C

I just did a 450 build with these videos!

Hi,

Can anyone give a list of what's good to have extras and spares for when dealing with a 450 heli? I mean, having spares for everything is good but pricey. What are the parts that break/wear out the fastest or have the highest turnover rate?

Thanks!