Originally Posted by kidlat

I don't remember where I read it but the reason I'm switching to Pro is it has better aerobatics? I just read it somewhere.

I've seen the Pro and the Sport flown just the same. They both can do the same things. Just check out youtube and you'll know what i mean. What you need to ask yourself is will the Pro make you a better pilot? Can the Pro turn your current skills into a Pro Pilot. I've seen people buy the protos thinking that their skills would improve. Not much has changed over 2 years.

So summary it's just like 2Doggs have said "it horses for courses."

You're right. I don't know why I bought it. Maybe because I haven't bought anything big since Father's Day I just hope it's at least as good as my V2 so I can sell the V2 frame.

I don't think you'll be disappointed. I'm sure you're aware of the tighter electronics install in the Pro, since there's only 25mm between the frames, and everything that's been said about the difficulty of working on it. Whilst I'd agree with PitchP that flying skills are the major factor in how any given heli design can fly, the Pro design does make it slightly more agile, and in all my crashes to date, I've yet to break a main frame, so it's a tough little so and so.

Just to add my ha'peth to the discussion, I've got a Pro and 2 V2's, and have had Tarot, HK, Copterx and generic (Skya etc.) - my experience is that the Pro flies slightly "bigger" than the V2 and can be set up slightly more aggressively. However the biggest difference is in the quality of the kit - there is undoubtedly a difference in the quality of parts and from my experience it is somethine like

1. Align
2. Tarot
3. ALZRC
... a bit of a gap
4. Copterx
.... a big gap
5. HK / Skya / Generic

A flyer at any level would notice the difference (if not immediately then after a little use) as the HK / Skya / Generic will have more slop and worse bearings to start with and get sloppy much quicker. Add in the poor quality electronics found in the cheap combos and you can create a ropey clone if you buy all cheap parts - for a little more you could build a very different heli

Just my humble opinion
Mike.

I'm flying an HK450 Pro belt tail.

Been really happy with it.

I just noticed that the tail pitch arm (the l shaped pivot between the tail pushrod and tail pitch slider) has finally cracked.

I've been happy with the HK so far, but the tail is very sloppy. I never notice it flying, but it is very sloppy at the connection between the pitch arm and slider.

I would like to replace the whole tail with align parts, but since this is an HK450 Pro (belt) version, I'm not sure what align parts to go with.

I'd rather not convert the thing to toque tube pro tail, since I frequently land in high grass and am afraid of stripping gears.

Does anyone know what align 450 tail setup is compatible with the HK 450 Pro Belt version?

I've been using this



Tarot TL1200-02 tail slider and arm on my HK 450 Belt Pro - and it's been working really well. I got mine for $8 from Value Hobby in the US, but oomodel sell it for $5 if you're ordering from overseas. It's plastic, but it's light. It's taken out most of the slop in the tail, and I've been able to up my tail servo gain by 5%. The only downside is that the crank in the control arm is more than needed for the Pro, so I need to find longer tail pitch rod guides to get rid of a bend in the rod.

I don't think there's anything wrong with the HK tail gearbox housing itself. It will benefit from using better quality bearings, but mainly from a better tail rotor shaft and slider.

If you still want to go Align, the Sport tail should work on the belt Pro. Align tail rotor shafts are a tighter fit in the tail bearings than HK or other clone ones, but the Sport shaft is only 41mm long, compared with 43mm for the HK Pro belt shaft. You can cheat the tail rotor hub 1mm or so past the end of the shaft though.

I'm currently using a shaft made by Steve (Kauaiguy) that's much stronger than even the Align shafts, being made from 3mm ejector pin rod.

Thanks for the great reply 2doggs.

That is exactly the info I was looking for.

Hi Richard

Few things to catch up on.

First of all, not sure what you mean by ' your charger will do 8s'. I think you may be confusing the one I am recommending, the Accucel 6

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...cessories.html

with its bigger brother.

The Accucel 6 will do up to 6s, but at 50W, the charge time is longer.
I suppose it will charge a 4s 3000 in about an hour.
To be honest, I don't worry too much about charge time. One of the characteristics of LiPo packs is they retain their charge for a long time. I find if I charge my packs when I get home, they are ready for the next session, however long it takes.
I also charge mine at 1c. I know some charge at up to 6c, but that is only safe with new packs, and a charger with a very accurate balancing set up.
Since you are using your ex plane packs, I would suggest staying with 1c as well.
TBH, if your next flying session is maybe a week away, what difference if you take 15 min or an hour to charge?
While we're on it, quick note about flight times. I know some set up for the longest flight times possible.
When you are learning, the concentration level is so high that you won't be able to fly for too long.
In my opinion, 6 minutes is your target. Any longer than this, and you may be flying, but you won't be learning anything.
If your set up will give you this, far better to land, have a breather and fit a fresh battery before you go again.

Now, that combo you linked to.

The motor is fine, but the esc is the one AS tells us caught fire on him.
AS, can you confirm?
To me, it looks like another rebadged Hobbywing, but I defer to someone who has first hand experience.
Also, the gyro is the HB730, not the 790 we all like.
I notice that Hobbycool also do Hobbywing esc, so it might be worth while calling them to see if they will do a deal on the HB790, Hobbywing 40a and the 2835 motor as a combo.
If you don't ask, you don't get.
I do like the idea of purchasing as much as possible from one shop, especially if it is in the USA, and you might be able to talk them into free shipping.

Otherwise your list is a good starting point.

Couple of things you might need as well.
Connectors from the motor to the esc
The 3.5mm ones shown will do fine.

Connectors from battery to esc.
I am not a fan of Deans connectors. I know many use them, but I find them difficult to solder neatly, and tough to pull apart.
Also seen some reports of clone Deans which are even worse. Not sure what connectors you already have on your plane packs, but it's worth staying with those for the heli as well.
If they are Deans, buy some genuine ones for your esc. Only a few pence for peace of mind.
Don't forget heatshrink for whatever connectors you use, make them look pretty, and safe as well.

At some stage, you will need a blade balancer. I use one of these

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Red_color.html

mine came from HK, but they are available everywhere, and work fine.

Also a pitch gauge for setting up. No need to go overboard, this one or similar looks good

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...tch_Gauge.html

Finally, one item worth spending a bit on.
You will need a set of hex drivers, like these.

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...river_set.html

Might be worth looking around your local stores. Without going crazy, get the best quality you can afford, it will pay off in the long run.

Not entirely necessary, but these are handy

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...liers_5mm.html

Don't spend too much on tools at the start. Just pick up what you need, when you need it, and you will find you have a collection in no time.

I am sure others will suggest things I have missed.

Almost forgot, power supply.
You can get dedicated power supplies, but I would suggest trying locally. They are heavy and postage will be high.
Google 12v power supplies, and see what comes up.
I would suggest one that gives at least 10 amp. This will cover future needs as well.
Doesn't need to be dedicated for model use, 12v is 12v wherever it comes from, so Radio Shack or the like could be a source.
Couple of other ideas.
Check back in the forums, I read somewhere about using a computer power supply.
If I remember, some worked, some didn't so might need a bit of electronics knowledge. If you have a computer shop handy, see if he has a second hand one, and will help in getting it going.
Not sure about over there, but here we used too have a thriving amatueur radio hobby. All the equipment is 12v, so if you wanted to set up a home station that would need a power supply.
I got one, years ago, home built and dirt cheap. Still going strong and enough power to jump start a jumbo jet,lol.
Your equivalent would be CB radio, so might be worth checking out.
Don't spend too much. You can always use a car battery until the right power supply comes along.
That's given you a little to think over, keep in touch.

Atomic Skull
Many thanks for your input as well, all good stuff.
Could you confirm if it was a Pentium, or a Hobbycool that caught fire on you.
Also puzzled by your reference to heatsinks on both sides. Can't imaging why you would want two heatsinks.
I do know that esc now come with a tin box over the electronics, to cut down on interference, and under the covering that could feel like another heatsink. Possible?
I have always regarded Hobbywing, Turnigy Plush, and for that matter, Robotbirds Pro as being the same unit. Never caused me any problem.
Must admit, I never use soft start. I always open the throttle slowly anyway, and with some setups, the combination of a soft start and slow throttle causes a stuttering motor. Don't suppose it hurts, but sounds awful. I now rely on the radio CONTROL bit.

Cheers

Jeff

Hi all,

I have just received and setup my hk450gt. All parts have been supplied from hobbyking.

Setup is:
Hk450gt
Turnigy h2218 3550kv motor 11 tooth pinion
Turnigy trust 45a esc
Assan ga250 gyro
Hkscm9 servos
Hk wooden blades

I am a noob, I have been flying planes for a few years though.

Had the first flight yesterday. All went well, basic hovering and not much more.

I was surprised how smooth it was out of the box.

Originally Posted by dceng888

Hi all,

I have just received and setup my hk450gt. All parts have been supplied from hobbyking.

Setup is:
Hk450gt
Turnigy h2218 3550kv motor 11 tooth pinion
Turnigy trust 45a esc
Assan ga250 gyro
Hkscm9 servos
Hk wooden blades

I am a noob, I have been flying planes for a few years though.

Had the first flight yesterday. All went well, basic hovering and not much more.

I was surprised how smooth it was out of the box.

Very nice setup. Change the main blades to CF Blades also the gyro to HB790 gyro

Originally Posted by dceng888

Hi all,

I have just received and setup my hk450gt. All parts have been supplied from hobbyking.

Setup is:
Hk450gt
Turnigy h2218 3550kv motor 11 tooth pinion
Turnigy trust 45a esc
Assan ga250 gyro
Hkscm9 servos
Hk wooden blades

I am a noob, I have been flying planes for a few years though.

Had the first flight yesterday. All went well, basic hovering and not much more.

I was surprised how smooth it was out of the box.

If this was your first heli (not even a coax or FP?!) and you built it and set it up and got it off the ground and back down again?!?!!!?!!??!? Then yahoo! Congrats! Amazing! You have no idea what a big deal that is!

Thanks guys, I'm not a complete noob but I'm no Alan szabo Jr.

I tried a walkers 450 sized 3d heli 4 years ago, the walkers was complete rubbish and just broke. I flew fixed wing for 3 years and then got a solopro v2 fixed pitch heli. I have spent a lot of hours on the sim, turned up the wind and simulation speed. I can do crazy 3d on the computer but not real life.

So this is my first real attempt at cp.

I used the wooden blades because I read they will break and take the impact in a crash. The plan is to go to cf when I get better.

The ga250 gyro feels rock solid in hh mode but drifts in rate mode. If it works do i need to upgrade it?

Also I have jiggered with the pitch curve to make it more stable around hover, I guess this is the right thing to do?

Originally Posted by dceng888

The ga250 gyro feels rock solid in hh mode but drifts in rate mode. If it works do i need to upgrade it?

yes because it's been reported many times by a lot of people that it fails after so many flights

get this quark clone you won't regret it
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/US-Stock-...item2a23521c46

hb790 SKYA 250 (6 min 25 sec)

as for the wooden blades, there have been reports of the HK blades blowing up in mid air. Pilot onus. save yourself and get some cheap CF blades. If you don't believe me just ask the guys here what they think about HK wooden blades

CF is cheap now days

Originally Posted by pitchp

as for the wooden blades, there have been reports of the HK blades blowing up in mid air. Pilot onus. save yourself and get some cheap CF blades. If you don't believe me just ask the guys here what they think about HK wooden blades

CF is cheap now days

For learning simple FF, I think good quality woodies are okay. Damage in crashes is often restricted to only main gear and blades. Just make sure you keep the head speed low, and switch to CF when you improve.

Wood blades are fine for some pretty fast FFF, loops rolls and such. had no problem but then fluttering a little in fast rolls. Upgrading to CF makes the rolls more ture and easier to control.

For damage, i always broke more than the wood blades. "Safety" is a plus. Id take a wood one to the leg anytime over a CF if i had to choose.