Looking at my bird, it appears the tail block and the holder for the tail drive gear are all one piece. Can you retrofit with the Align parts? I checked EXI and theirs is like the Align, two pieces.

Looks like you'd have to at least replace the upper frames as well to make the Align or EXI parts work.

Originally Posted by fatalsync

Looking at my bird, it appears the tail block and the holder for the tail drive gear are all one piece. Can you retrofit with the Align parts? I checked EXI and theirs is like the Align, two pieces.

Looks like you'd have to at least replace the upper frames as well to make the Align or EXI parts work.

it all comes apart , once you take the screws out it will pull apart with some force .

is there a problem with the one you have ? i only had a problem with the tail pully on the tail slider.

at the risk of being boring, and repetitious, do remember to use a good amount of heat from a soldering iron on the screws or the threaded plate that they screw into before attempting to remove them, since the factory threadlock is overly tenacious, and the screw heads almost as soft as irradiated California tomatoes....

Originally Posted by jombo

it all comes apart , once you take the screws out it will pull apart with some force .

is there a problem with the one you have ? i only had a problem with the tail pully on the tail slider.

I think the threads stripped on the lower holes in my last crash. I got a new boom and put everything back together but it doesn't clamp down on the boom as tightly and it has a little bit of play in and out of the block.

I hovered the heli today and it doesn't seem to be affecting flight, but if I can be prepared with a replacement part ahead of time, that would be better.

What sort of grease are people using? did a quick search, haven't found a good answer.
Cheers

Originally Posted by foot8sativa

What sort of grease are people using? did a quick search, haven't found a good answer.
Cheers

I think it depends on your blade grips. If they're plastic, you need to avoid petroleum based greases that might soften or attack the plastic. That might point you towards silicon. For metal blade grips, I think you can use just about any sort of grease, and any is better than none!

Originally Posted by fatalsync

I think the threads stripped on the lower holes in my last crash. I got a new boom and put everything back together but it doesn't clamp down on the boom as tightly and it has a little bit of play in and out of the block.

I hovered the heli today and it doesn't seem to be affecting flight, but if I can be prepared with a replacement part ahead of time, that would be better.

if it still moves in and out the boom try pulling it making sure the belt is tight and put a screw through the block and the boom. that should hold it tight. i would definitly look into getting either new parts to replace the broken screws or just get another 29.00 kit and start fresh , the parts will probably be half that anyways. check here i order stuff from them all the time , or use the USA hobbyking site , they may have it in stock .
http://www.valuehobby.com/products.php?category_id=35
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...obby_Warehouse

Originally Posted by foot8sativa

What sort of grease are people using? did a quick search, haven't found a good answer.
Cheers

i use lithium grease and turbine oil for all my bearings , sometimes i use both. i use the oil to thin the lithium grease and sets into the sealed bearings . havent had a problem.

Originally Posted by jombo

if it still moves in and out the boom try pulling it making sure the belt is tight and put a screw through the block and the boom. that should hold it tight. i would definitly look into getting either new parts to replace the broken screws or just get another 29.00 kit and start fresh , the parts will probably be half that anyways. check here i order stuff from them all the time , or use the USA hobbyking site , they may have it in stock .
http://www.valuehobby.com/products.php?category_id=35
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...obby_Warehouse

The thing is, the screws aren't broken, I think it's actually the holes in the plastic block that have stripped.

Thanks... I might just buy a set of Align uppers so I can use those parts when the HK stuff breaks.

My HK is slowly becoming an Align as things break.

Or I might just put a few of the 9.99 kits on order...

i have to say , its the luck of the draw. i had one kit go together so smooth i knew something will go wrong and never did , then i get a kit that has nothing but stripped screws , bad bearings , missing those tiny washers in the head all little stuff that drives you crazy. i usually just make a big order of some things i found with my kits that break or bend , like flybar feathering shaft , main shaft , links , tail parts . now you can get the whole metal tail for 5 and change for the 450. i learned to fly on the plastic v1 , and went through 3 kits before i put all metal stuff on. it was for me cheaper to break the plastic kit than learning on something that was too expencive .

maybe its just me , but it is easier to get a whole new kit than try fixing a crashed kit. i know when i was learning , the parts all looked ok but ended up replacing half the kit with new hk parts . after that , i just salvaged the electronics if they were still good and threw them in a new kit . no more chasing vibrations , or something binding or bad bearing somewhere , these things are disposable ,..... untill you get into the metal pro version

Originally Posted by jombo

maybe its just me , but it is easier to get a whole new kit than try fixing a crashed kit. i know when i was learning , the parts all looked ok but ended up replacing half the kit with new hk parts . after that , i just salvaged the electronics if they were still good and threw them in a new kit . no more chasing vibrations , or something binding or bad bearing somewhere , these things are disposable ,..... untill you get into the metal pro version

Personally, the electronics tuning was the part that took the longest so if I didn't have to move servos and wires, that would be better!

see , i say the same thing. setting up the head and tail for me is about the same ammount of time loctiting the whole heli up and putting the electronics in . my links are never the same as in the align manual , we dont use the same electronics lol.
i always start with my calipers and pitch guage to find +10-10 and mark that on the shaft and measure the distance with my calipers. then i size up all the head links apropriatly to give me those settings ,then set up the servos with the radio and links to adjust the height i need for the servos to give me 10-10 . its alot of work but it hovers like no tomorrow and pretty much flyes itself . between the calipers and swash leveling tool i can take about 4 to 6 hours (taking my time to do it right) to get it perfect and all the links smooth with no binding . one of the reasons i like the pro , alot of the links are fixed so no more measuring like i do with the v1 or v2

they improved the boom block on the 450 Pro - instead of the screws going into plastic, there are hex metal inserts, so you can really tighten the screws with no danger of stripping. Perhaps it would be possible to drill out the boom block and use long bolts all the way thru the frames for a similar effect.

Originally Posted by 2Doggs

they improved the boom block on the 450 Pro - instead of the screws going into plastic, there are hex metal inserts, so you can really tighten the screws with no danger of stripping. Perhaps it would be possible to drill out the boom block and use long bolts all the way thru the frames for a similar effect.

That's a great idea. I'll have to take it apart and over to a friend that has a drill press so that the holes stay straight. Then I can use the long bolt as you mentioned with a nylon-insert not. Should be pretty solid after that.

how do you get the oil/grease in the bearings?

Originally Posted by foot8sativa

how do you get the oil/grease in the bearings?

I got myself a bottle of this .. seems to stay a little cleaner than lithium.

You really need to only grease the thrust bearings. I'd lube the main and tail shaft - grease is a bit thick for those IMO. teflon or silicone spray stays cleaner. I also use silicone on the tail belt.

make sure thrust bearing is from inside out: larger diameter retainer, bearings with cups facing inwards, smaller diameter retainer. Check the v2/pro manual for reference

edit: oops! had order reversed