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Nov 24, 2010, 09:01 PM
Thou who know not
Po73's Avatar
I'm happy to see it on there, you have good taste in antenna. :P
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Nov 24, 2010, 09:20 PM
USA: LakeGeorge, New York
This guy (Link down below) had a nice SummitFPV,
I don't know what happen after this video he posted....
he is here on this Summit Forums, somewhere?
....Dentman is his name here
besides Wobby's revolutionary SummitFPV, this guys is my
2nd Favorite, (Dentman).....but ReplayReb, your very close to 2nd...

:-) :-)

his post starts at #1335
Last edited by rclab1; Nov 24, 2010 at 09:29 PM.
Nov 24, 2010, 10:25 PM
Registered User
replayreb's Avatar
That is so cool! I wish he would post more videos; I loved the air freshener! I have something similar planned but shipping takes a long time from'll see.
Nov 24, 2010, 11:03 PM
USA: LakeGeorge, New York
in that YouTube video, there is absolutely no shaking/vibration in his video.
his mount is really good, and Solid!!!!

he (Dentman) has a simple flat board as his base and worked from there.
.....soo simple, but the function is fantastic.....
Nov 26, 2010, 09:07 AM
Flying FPV from the lab.
aaron_gx's Avatar
Crashing, rolling and cruising (3 min 51 sec)

Here's my "caged beast" FPV summit. Ugly as hell, but extremely functional.
Nov 29, 2010, 12:23 AM
Registered User
replayreb's Avatar
I received the white Chevron Tonka I bought on eBay and tried the roll cage on my truck and although I love the way it looks it won't work with my camera mount the way I made it...the mount is too high. I will have to make another mount to use with the roll bar but that's OK since I haven't used the extra 12"x12" sheet of aluminum yet. I am going with the regular roof for now and will play around with the roll bar later. I have also decided to sell my Dragon Link radio system. I did a range test today at dusk when I got back this evening and Wobby is right in that you run out of video range far sooner than RC range and I can't have a $300 radio lying around that I'm not using so I put it up for sale in the FPV sale forum. I'm still hoping I get a chance to make a video Wednesday if the weather is OK.
Last edited by replayreb; Nov 29, 2010 at 01:27 AM.
Nov 29, 2010, 09:14 AM
SENTRY 62's Avatar
I'd add an arm to a RC truck if I wanted to pilot it kms away. Kinda like a "self-righting" system in case it rolls over.
Nov 29, 2010, 09:17 AM
SENTRY 62's Avatar
SRIMECH : (Self RIghting MECHanism)

Demon srimech lifter test (0 min 33 sec)
Dec 01, 2010, 11:21 PM
Rubbin's Racin

FPV Tonka Summit too, Update

So, I have received all of my gear minus the pan/tilt from Globe-Flight which is on the way. Everything is installed, together and working except the pan/tilt, camera, tilt stablization gyro and headtracker. I have not been able to do a range check yet. I have driven the truck in my backyard without FPV and all seems to be okay but do still have some issues.

The biggest problem I think is going to be the weight of the truck and the excessive body roll and brake dive. I purchased and installed the optional heavier 5.9 rate 33.7 lb/in (blue dot) springs on the front and moved the standard front 5.4 rate 30.8 lb/in (double orange dot) springs to the rear. I put maximum preload in both with coilbinding at full bump. This was actually worse than stock because the optional heavier springs (both blue and purple dot) are actually much shorter in total length than the stock springs. Although they are stiffer, on the shocks they are actually less stiff because there is less spring to compress I don't know if there is an aftermarket solution but stiffer springs would definetely help. I ended up getting a second pair of stock front springs (double orange dot) and put on all four corners with maximum preload. This did help some but could still be better. I may try heavier oil which will help dampening and should also increase spring rate?

In addition, I think that a better wheel set with stiffer foam might help body roll. I like the Pro-Line setup HariEdo has on his Summit but don't know it they will work for me? The wheels/tires are made for the T-MAXX® 3.3, E-MAXX®, REVO®, REVO® 3.3, REVO® Platinum, E-REVO®, Savage XL, Savage Flux, Savage x 4.6, Savage X SS 4.6, LST XXL with no mention about Summit. I do get some rubbing on the Tonka body (doesn't affect handling) front and rear with stock tires and cannot tell if the width and/or offset of the Pro-Line setup will make this a problem.

Another small problem is using the 9C to control a truck. I initially had the steering and throttle both on the right stick but had to switch the steering to the left stick because of problems with throttle inputs while turning or vice versa. It is better now but still tricky compared to a normal car/truck Tx, but I'm sure I'll get used to it.

I am really hoping to eventually get some good long range with this vehicle so I got a 2500mW 1280MHz video Tx from RMRC to go with the Advanced FPV Starter Package 1.3GHz. Like replayreb, I really do not like the stock rubber duck antenna that came with the 2500mW Tx. I do have the antenna for the 1280MHz 300mW Tx that came with the starter package which is much smaller and more flexible but am uncertain it will work properly or if I'll loose range by using it? I would ask Tim @ RMRC but he is out of town and not answering email right now, do you guys think it will be the same as the rubber duck?

The next issue is with the RC Rx. I'm using a Futaba 319DPS which I hope will get some good long range. I haven't been able to test yet but what I already do not like is the antenna wire is 38" long and when mounted vertically is almost 4' up from the ground. I mounted it thru 3 antenna tubes taped and supported with a straightened metal coat hanger. I can forget going thru any tight areas with this setup. I've read about people using whip antenna's on their Rx and even found this helpful blog about this and other methods of shortening an antenna. To sum up their experiment results all forms of shortening a Rx antenna from stock resulted in decreased range potential. I wonder if the metal coat hanger that supports my antenna setup will also have negative effects on range? Any antenna guru's? I can tell that I will not be satisfied with this setup regardless of range over time so I'm seeking a better solution. So, replayreb I now have some questions for you about your setup and the DragonLink.

In a previous post you mentioned that you are going to sell your DragonLink because it was unnecessary to have your RC control range so much farther than your video range. What were the results of your range test? How far did your video range go? Do you know the limits of the DragonLink on a ground based FPV setup? You are using a 800mW video Tx, where I opted for 2500mW, this should give me increased video range, correct? Did rclab1 buy your DragonLink setup or is it still available?

Gyros, gyros, I seem to be cursed with my gyro luck. I'm having problems with both my head tracker and my tilt gyro. I believe them both to be faulty or maybe it is me? I purchased the AEORC XGYRO100 HeadTracker from RMRC. The instructions are hard to understand but after reading several times the programming should be pretty simple but I am getting zero servo response with it. I emailed Tim but haven't gotten any response yet due to his vacation. I have read that others have had problems with this HT and also some stories that it can possibly fry a 9C? Does anybody have a clue about this thing? I think it is a dud. For tilt stablization I got a Futaba GY401 which also isn't working correctly. I figured out how to setup my transmitter for it but when I move it the servo just shuttlers around violently. These two items have so far been the biggest headache of all I think I'm going to ditch the tilt gyro idea and ask for a refund but I do want to have a headtracker so I hope I can get it to work.

On the positive side, my truck is looking pretty sweet. Some cool features are turning steering wheel, Barbie and Joe, remote on/off lights with roof light bar, remote on/off 12V motorcycle horn, lexan windshield and 2 way walkie talkie. Mirrors to come, I keep forgetting to do them. I was going to do movable shifter handle but couldn't find anything that would work so I canned the idea. I do have a bug to work out with the horn but I'll get it. I just can't wait to finish and finally drive this thing from the cockpit.

As you all can probably tell I am no electrical genius. This is my first try at FPV and I know that what I'm going for is pretty optimistic but I'm doing my best to research so I can make it possible. I'm hoping to get at least a 1 mile radius without glitches. I know this post is very long but I have found RCGroups to be my best resource for information on this topic. Any and all help and suggestions are greatly appreciated. After my project is complete I will gladly share what I have learned to help out others with their setups. Thank you.
Dec 02, 2010, 12:42 AM
Registered User
replayreb's Avatar
I haven't had very much problem with dive although I half intentionally did a front tipover by goosing the throttle forward and then slamming the brakes (reverse) and it tipped over on it's roof. After the testing/bashing I plan on swapping to a nicer, rust-free body when I've gotten more comfortable driving at high speeds. After that I set the endpoints on my reverse to 50% so I can't brake too hard and also I don't need to go 20 mph in reverse. So far as tire rub I haven't had a problem with that. I swapped the front and rear shocks and kept the front suspension fairly soft to absorb speedbumps and potholes. The adjustable retainer is about halfway on the fronts and the rear retainer is about 3/4 of the way to keep the rear from sagging too much when accelerating. It's worked out fine so far. I experimented briefly with putting the steering on channel 6 or 7 and assigning that channel to one of the rotary dials at the top of the 9C and that gave me really good intuitive control driving around the house but after real-world tests outside having everything on the stick turned out fine. I did set a -50%/-50% exponential curve on the steering (aileron) stick so the wheels move only slightly when first moving the stick and then it finally gives me full steering angle at the end of stick travel so I can still fully navigate around obstacles at slow speeds. I also set dual-rates for the throttle (elevator) and assigned it to one of the 3-way switches on the 9C so switch up gives me 100% throttle endpoints for high-speed driving, center gives me 50% throttle for normal driving and switch down takes it all the way down to 25% throttle so my kids can drive it around the yard without me fearing they will disintegrate the whole thing into a brick wall.

When I switched back to my regular Futaba receiver I just used a Dubro 36" antenna tube and cut it down to 2 feet or so and heatshrinked the base of that to the Tonka's antenna and fished the antenna wire up through the tube and left a few inches hanging out the top. The Tonka's antenna is stiff enough to hold it up but luckily will give and allow the truck to rollover without damaging anything.

So far as the Dragon Link it will go for miles even on the ground. I don't know how far but I saw a video where they setup a Dragon Link transmitter with only the little duck antenna and set the radio for servo test and then drove away with the Dragon Link receiver sitting on the dash of the car with a couple of servos attached and the servos moved back and forth at a steady rate and just started to glitch at 15 miles out.

I switched to a 2.4GHz video transmitter I had bought from Tim at a while back because, most importantly, the range was as good or better for me than the SunSky 1.2GHz setup and, secondly, that allowed me to ditch the safety helmet setup and just use the FatSharks' built-in 2.4GHz receiver which simplified everything.

I am still waiting for my new Tonka body and a servo shaft adapter to arrive before I post any videos. When I removed the Tonka's steering wheel previously the drill bit caught the rivet holding it on and spun it and softened the plastic and made the hole bigger than I wanted and that made the steering wheel wobbly when turning. I didn't like it so I drilled out the steering wheel on my backup Tonka's dashboard much more carefully and decided to use a 3/16 servo shaft adapter instead of my tee-nut solution for a much cleaner install.

You're truck is looking sweet! The horn is very stealthy and really looks cool. I wish I could make clean cuts like that! I don't plan to do anything else major to my truck after I get this new body and steering wheel issue fixed but I had an idea for a shifter you can use: Connect a servo Y-adapter to the low/high transmission shifter channel, file down flat the Tonka's molded plastic shifter boot, cut the tabs off a micro servo and stick it on it's side with servo tape where the shifter boot used to be with the servo spline pointing toward's the passenger side and mount one of these aluminum CNC machined servo arms on it and then you can put a screw through the end of the servo arm to give Mr. GI Joe something to hold onto when he's shifting!

Dec 02, 2010, 09:41 AM
Registered User
replayreb's Avatar
UPDATED 1/1/2011: I found that the FPV180 servo from Hobby Wireless is in fact the D933MG on Hobby King's website BUT, and this is a big BUT, Hobby Wireless's FPV180 has been modified for 180 degrees operation by modifying both the physical stop in the internal gearing and the servo's potentiometer so it is well worth the small extra cost to buy it from Hobby Wireless. The D933MG will not do 180 degrees stock.

Here's a test video I made yesterday. The steering wheel doesn't move because I redesigned the linkage and I'm still waiting for a part for it to arrive and I'm still waiting for the nicer Tonka body. The pan servo is a little noisy but that's OK because it works great and I found out I can get that same servo from Hobby King for $9.79 so it will be cheap to replace if it fails. I smacked the metal drainage grate at the bottom of my driveway pretty hard because I forgot about it amd it was covered with pine straw and didn't see it through the goggles. Oops. So that was an unintentional test of the worthiness of the Tonka body and camera mount and they both passed. The part where I am parked for a few minutes is because I was playing around with the dual rates on the 9C to set the throttle endpoints to 25, 50 and 100% endpoints with a 3-way switch. I didn't charge the batteries so I only got about 10 minutes of driving time and the part where the camera is looking off aimlessly is because I took the goggles off for a few minutes to watch how the truck handled. I am going to order a 8dbi patch antenna to see if I can make it all the way around the block with my 500mw 2.4GHz video transmitter but if I can't that's OK because I can see now that I can have a lot of fun with this without going far. All in all it was a good first test. I can't wait to get it finished and just start having fun like this! I showed my wife the video and all she saw was the leaves in the yard.

FPV Tonka Summit Test Drive #1 (9 min 51 sec)
Last edited by replayreb; Jan 01, 2011 at 10:37 PM.
Dec 02, 2010, 10:57 AM
Flying FPV from the lab.
aaron_gx's Avatar
that camera mount is amazingly solid!!! You dont have any vibration going on, and thats hard to accomplish. Great test!
Dec 02, 2010, 11:26 AM
SENTRY 62's Avatar
I'd put a cheap(er) rear cam and a camera switcher on there so you can look back if needed. Or maybe integrate a mini DVR into the front bumper (recessed a bit just in case you hit something) w/ a switcher so you get a bumper view
Dec 02, 2010, 01:55 PM
Registered User
replayreb's Avatar
Originally Posted by aaron_gx
that camera mount is amazingly solid!!! You dont have any vibration going on, and thats hard to accomplish. Great test!
I am very relieved it worked so well after cutting and shaping all that aluminum. I didn't want to have to start over. Now I need get the video range extended and I'll be happy.

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