Before it does shutdown, you should hear the motor pulsing. Sure enough, it will pulse for a little while with a new battery, but sadly, sometime with an old battery, the low battery warning doesn't last long.

I prefer to trust the good old timer. Going into pulsing is already going too low and may damage the battery. Another way to do it is to land when you feel that the power is not good enough anymore. If I want to test a battery, I simply go into a hover, which really tax it. If I can't pull out vertically anymore, it's time to land.

Originally Posted by RealGambler

Before it does shutdown, you should hear the motor pulsing. Sure enough, it will pulse for a little while with a new battery, but sadly, sometime with an old battery, the low battery warning doesn't last long.

I prefer to trust the good old timer. Going into pulsing is already going too low and may damage the battery. Another way to do it is to land when you feel that the power is not good enough anymore. If I want to test a battery, I simply go into a hover, which really tax it. If I can't pull out vertically anymore, it's time to land.

I remember pulsing from the mini vapor. This is just stop!!~

So you do get a pulsing when the battery gets low?

Bill

wow, I tried 2 new e-flite 1s 150 45c lipos today on my UMX Extra 300 and man more than just a solid hover, I was climbing like never before
I usually use 1s 180mah 25c Hyperions, but these new e-flite 1s 150 45c lipos breathe new life into my 2 year old Extra 300! you can hear the higher rpm, and 1/2 throttle hover, full throttle it's climbing to the ceiling of the Mall of America field HHH metrodome ceiling fast.
if you have a UMX Extra 300, try at least one of these e-flite 1s 150 45c lipos. at $4.99 they are amazing!

btw, I've noticed y 1.5 yera old 1s 180mah 25c Hyperions are a little goofy with the power depending on the connection. if I put a lipo on, sometimes it's weak, or peters out quickly. so then I set the throttle to 1/3 and gently giggle the wires/connector and after a bit I get a lot better power out of them.

Yes i did too and the results were great!! I think the older battery's and cold may have been my esc problem.

Bill

I have some trim questions, maybe someone here can point me in the right direction. I have my 300 balanced and trimmed both inverted and upright for around 1/2 throttle. Full up elevator for a wall, for instance, into hover, is fine. But when I push over, like to do a waterfall or any full down elevator, its accompanied by a right hand roll and quite a bit of it too. Is that due to flexing? Is there any way I can alleviate that? I'm trying to get more precise with snaps and inverted flight but it's throwing me off quite a bit. Help?

Thanks!
Ben

Originally Posted by bhoov128

I have some trim questions, maybe someone here can point me in the right direction. I have my 300 balanced and trimmed both inverted and upright for around 1/2 throttle. Full up elevator for a wall, for instance, into hover, is fine. But when I push over, like to do a waterfall or any full down elevator, its accompanied by a right hand roll and quite a bit of it too. Is that due to flexing? Is there any way I can alleviate that? I'm trying to get more precise with snaps and inverted flight but it's throwing me off quite a bit. Help?

Thanks!
Ben

Probably flexing. My Extras are all getting old and "rubbery". They do some profoundly unexpected things at times.

A monokote trim iron set on low and applied to the creases can help a little. I've found breaks need both adhesive and tape. I use canopy glue and clear tape. CA is too heavy and brittle. I have a fresh replacement air frame that will probably get a carbon fiber strip glues onto the wing leading edge before being put into service.

FWIW: The replacement air frame for the new AS3Xtra are less costly than the org. orange one for some reason:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...3xtra-EFLU5170

Originally Posted by Tim Wolff

Probably flexing. My Extras are all getting old and "rubbery". They do some profoundly unexpected things at times.

A monokote trim iron set on low and applied to the creases can help a little. I've found breaks need both adhesive and tape. I use canopy glue and clear tape. CA is too heavy and brittle. I have a fresh replacement air frame that will probably get a carbon fiber strip glues onto the wing leading edge before being put into service.

FWIW: The replacement air frame for the new AS3Xtra are less costly than the org. orange one for some reason:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...3xtra-EFLU5170

Cool, thanks. It's weird, as the tail section hasn't really ever had any issues, the wings have taken most of the abuse. They're already shored up with strip CF on the leading edge and I added a few 1mm CF pieces on the underside of the wing where it was prone to folding and to the rear of the aileron as well. a 1mm CF joiner between the two elevator halves, and some CA bracing around the control horns for slop... It seems straighter and tighter than ever. Maybe I'll use some of my 2mm Depron and add a brace on both sides of the tail section.

found it!!

Originally Posted by bhoov128

I have some trim questions, maybe someone here can point me in the right direction. I have my 300 balanced and trimmed both inverted and upright for around 1/2 throttle. Full up elevator for a wall, for instance, into hover, is fine. But when I push over, like to do a waterfall or any full down elevator, its accompanied by a right hand roll and quite a bit of it too. Is that due to flexing? Is there any way I can alleviate that? I'm trying to get more precise with snaps and inverted flight but it's throwing me off quite a bit. Help?

Thanks!
Ben

Have you flown much 3D before in larger aircraft? The reason I ask is because all of mine need varying degrees of rudder correction when extreme pitch manouvers are excecuted. It's because of gyroscopic precession of the prop and other aerodynamic interactions from the rotation of the propeller.

You've said it's a roll response to elevator, though are you sure it's not yawing first? Normally, a rapid pitch down will result in a yaw to the left, and a pitch up will result in a yaw to the right. You can trim the aircraft to alleviate yaw response in pitch up or down by changing the thrust line, but it most often makes the opposite worse.

Like many things in aircraft setup, it's always a compromise.

Good pilots make the rudder corrections automatically as required. No amount of mixing helps them. I once spoke to a really good 3D pilot about his falling leaf manouvre. Basically the aircraft travels a vertical downline alternating between upright and inverted harrier, flipping about the pitch axis. The inputs are alternating full up and down elevator, with a blip of throttle to help the airflow over the tail to get the aircraft to flip. Alternating rudder (and aileron) corrections are required at each flip to keep the aircraft straight, and vary depending on how much throttle is used / wind direction / strength etc.

Not easy!

I haven't flown a lot of large plane 3d... I just got my first balsa ship, and I'm still practicing the basic stuff with tough foamies and sims. I'll try a little rudder correction when I do it next. I have no yaw / roll coupling whatsoever on hard elevator up, it's pushing over that does it, but it does in fact roll to the left.

Unfortunately it'll be a bit before I can try it. I'd put about 8 batteries through it, no crashes whatsoever, basic stuff, some hovering (I'm not very good at keeping it in a hover )... then I went and did it. I told my daughter I hadn't crashed it in a long time and I was getting pretty good at it. Needless to say 3 minutes later my prop shaft was broken

Thanks, subsonic. All these little nuances are so valuable but hard to come by!
Ben

My Extra has about had it

What are some other options for an aerobatic micro other than the Horizon choices?

Thanks
Bob

You could put the guts of your 300 in this:

http://www.profileplanes.com/index.p...product_id=122

What a ko inky dink!

I have one of those, and one F3P that should arrive today.

Can't wait.

Thanks
Bob

if I buy an MSRX heli motor to replace my worn stock motor, do I need to swap the gear on the end? if so, how hard is it to do?