~UTILITY HANGER~ Tools / Tips / Tricks & What Not! - RC Groups
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Oct 16, 2010, 07:59 PM
"Auntie Samantha"
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~UTILITY HANGER~ Tools / Tips / Tricks & What Not!

This is my...~Utility Hanger!~

I'm going to use this page for all my miscellaneous stuff! I get a lot of request for pics and info of something I've done, so I'll post that here as well.

This page will be UP-DATED quite frequently, so if there's something you like, copy/paste it to your 'puter, 'cuz it may not be here next week?

UP-DATE 2/11/2013: Canopy Slider!

I thought I would share some info on how to make a simple canopy slider.

In anticipation of getting my new FMS P-51B I thought I might venture into the possibility of mounting a Malcolm canopy, and make it slide. To do so I needed info on how to accomplish this task so I contacted Lou/LDM "Pilot is now in!!" and was able to get some valuable info from him. He led me to the Evergreen site where I was able to obtain info on the pieces I would need. Once I knew what I needed, I paid a visit to Hobbytown USA, the LHS in Springfield, and was able to acquire the 2 pieces I would need. First I needed the Rectangular Tubing #EVG258, and then a couple strips of H Channel #EVG287. Now all I needed to do is get them to interact with each other?

A slot needs to be cut in the rectangular tube so the H channel will slide inside. Lou suggested using a Dremel cut-off wheel, but I found trying to accomplish that task a bit daunting, especially when trying to keep a straight slot for 14"!

Awhile back I had purchased one of those 4" Mity Mite saws from HFT thinking it would save me from making numerous trips to the main shop to use my Craftsman, but it didn't work out that way, so I shelved it. Remembering it came with a 4" diamond blade, it got me to thinking? I got it back out, removed the 4" Carbide blade I had purchased for it, and installed the diamond blade because of it's .038 thickness/width (perfect for a slot). I had to make a surface plate so the rec. tube wouldn't fall into the gap around the blade. Once that was done, I set up a fence, set the correct depth, and I was off to the races!
Perfect straight line slots every time!

~~See Thumbs below~~

UP-DATE 12/14/2012: ~.50 cal Guns~

I've made up a set of .50 cal. guns with LEDs to simulate the actions of the real deal.

I used K&S 1/4" x .049 aluminum tubing to make the barrels. To get the gun flash like I wanted it I radiused the muzzles with a Dremel cutter so that the light from the LEDs would reflect around the circumference of the barrels. That way the flash could be seen from the sides as well.

Initially I used some 3mm white LEDs, but I wasn't pleased with the effect. I decided to try a set of 3mm orange/amber LEDs and WALAH! that was the effect I was looking for!

I used the GT Power RC Car Flashing Light LED System I have on hand to simulate the sequenced effect for the guns. I have to say, this GT unit is pretty kewl, although not really adaptable to aircraft, unless of course your intentions are to put on a really kewl light show in the air over your favorite field!

50 Cal Guns 1 (2 min 6 sec)

~~See Thumbs below~~

UP-DATE 5/06/2011: ~LED's~
Although LED's are expected to last 100,000 hrs. it has been my experience that "it ain't necessarily so!" The best Nav light system I have found, excluding those expensive programmable strobe systems, is the RC Lander Lighting System. The Landers has proven to be a very effective Nav light system for the planes I have installed them in, but occasionally I have experienced a "brown out" with an individual light. Instead of ordering a complete system, I decided I would build my own individual harnesses.

The Landers use's a controller to manage the 5mm Red & Green LEDs for the wing tips, and 5mm White LEDs for the 2 blinking beacon lights. The larger 10mm LED is used as a landing light. The 10mm LEDs are also what FMS and Starmax are both using for Nav lights and landing lights in their latest planes.

One thing you must note, these LEDs are rated at 3.6v max., so a resistor is required on the power/red line so our 4-7v systems won't smoke 'em. I found such a resistor, a 1200 ohm resistor used for the motors on electric trains believe it or not! I have found 2 sources for the LEDs. My original search led me to VirtualVillage.com where I found these 10mm White 40 (viewing angle) bulbs. 30 bulbs may be a bit overkill, but it was all I could find at the time. Since then I have found another source, UniqueLED.com which handles both the 5mm & 10mm LEDs in a full range of colors, Red,Green,White,Amber,Blue etc. You can also order any quantity you prefer. RadioShack also stocks 5mm & 10mm LEDs, but all I could find at my locals were the White & Red ones, and of course, they're a bit more expensive.

~~See Thumbs below~~

UP-DATE 5/26/2011: ~Lazertoys~
I just received two new sets of Nav Lights from Lazertoyz. These are the Lazertoyz V3 57" 5 LED Nav Lites w/Strobe. The V3's are a complete set of lights ready to be installed.

The second set is the Maxi-Light System. This is a controller only, and comes with 10 JST connectors. With the Maxi-Lite controller you have 10 channels to configure what ever system you choose. I set up a demo board to show all the functions of the Maxi-Lite.

I've gotten the Maxi Light system installed in the Starmax P-51 now, and it really enhances the Nav Lights on that big bird!

Maxi Light Nav Light system on the Starmax P-51.

Starmax P-51 Nav Lights (2 min 50 sec)

The V3 System.

Lazertoyz V3 Nav Lite System.mov (2 min 45 sec)

The Maxi-Lite System.

Lazertoyz Maxi-Lite System (2 min 9 sec)

The Maxi-Lite System with a set of 1W 90LM High Intensity LEDs.

Maxi-Lite with 1W High Intensity LEDs (1 min 10 sec)

~~See Thumbs below~~

~Quanum V3 Telemetry!~
*Here is how I made an adapter to to fit my Quanum V3 Telemetry Receiver to my new Futaba 8FGS TX.*

I installed the optional Flexible antenna and it gives multiple location options for the Tx, not to mention the ease of moving it from plane to plane.

I have also acquired the new TEMP/AMP add on module so I can monitor the Amps as well as the lipo temps. on the V2 display.
Because of the various battery connectors on the market, you do have to modify it to accept the connector you happen to use. I use the XT60's so I modified the module to accept the XT60 terminals by filing reliefs on the board for a good fit. I then soldered the XT60's on and finished up with a band of 25mm heat shrink.

UP-DATE 1/29/2012: I found, thru the help of John/jj604 on the "The Quanum telemetry unit - a useful idea: Part1" how to use the Quanum Telemetry system to remotely monitor my battery charging process. I can now monitor the amp input of each cell, the total voltage, and even the temperature of the battery from anywhere within range without having to stand over the charger.

Knowing that the IMAX B6 will shut off when the charging is completed, I needed another way to hook up an additional balancing harness for the Quanum. To simplify this process I got a XH-XT60 30A ParaBoard from EPBuddy. I then made a 6S balancing harness from 2 pigtail male JST-XH connectors so I would be able to monitor Lipos from 2S-6S.

To use the TEMP/AMP module to monitor mAh into the battery as well as temp and voltages the input & output terminals have to be reversed because the the current is now flowing in to the module, and not out of, the battery. The Quanum only reads positive current flow, so to accomplish this I soldered to male to male & 2 female to female XT60 connectors together to make reverse adapters when I'm charging batteries.

Now I can monitor the state of charge from both the B6 and the Quanum, and with the temp sensor taped to the Lipo I can also monitor the battery temperature as well, from anywhere in the house or shop!

~~See Thumbs below~~

~The Dyno~
*I built a Motor/Prop dyno so I can evaluate motors / ESC's / and prop & spinner balance. All the test equipment, Watts Meter, K1 Tach, ESC's are all mounted on the back of the firewall for safety.

~I have additional info on my Motor Dyno on the "My Motor Dyno & Du-Bro Prop Balancer" pg.~

~~See Thumbs below~~

~Paint Shaker~
*For those who, like myself, get tired of "tennis elbow" from shaking those Testors paint bottles all the time, Robart has a nifty little Paint Shaker to remedy that. I built a stand so the paint would mix better from the bottom of the bottles. It only takes a couple of minutes now, and no more "tennis elbow"!*

~~See Thumbs below~~

UP-DATE 6/23/2011:
~Transport Rack~
Because I wanted to be able to transport at least 3 planes at a time, 1 fixed wing (B-25/P-47/Samantha P-051), and my other 1-Piece winged planes (Starmax P-51/Corsair/Stuka/T-28/Cessna 182, etc.) I came up with a PVC rack that would help me with that endeavor. I borrowed the idea from MRFASTPHIL's rack, and applied my own alternative tweaks. I built it entirely out of 3/4" PVC so all I have to do is slide it in the bed of my pick-up when I'm ready to head for the field. I also left the option so I could add more racks on the top if I should need them?
I secure it in place with a couple of bungees tied onto an adjustable bed bar at the front of the bed, and a couple of small sandbags on the rear corners.
I am happy to report that it will withstand speeds exceeding 60MPH!

I've been asked for a parts list showing the lengths for each runner so it fits in the bed of my Chevy PU. Other vehicles may vary?

90 Elbow (8)
45 Elbow (4)
Tees (31)
End Caps (4)
10" Trap Runners (4) *The 4 padded sections used to hold the fuse in place.
Couplers (4)
1 1/2" Nipples (18)
2" Nipples (4) *Used between the 2 upper wing runners.
6" Nipples (2) *Used between the trap runners.

~~See Thumbs below~~

UP-DATE 12/06/2011:
~Power Supply~
After watching several DIY vids on YouTube on how to convert a 'Puter Power Supply box to a functioning 12v/5v Power Supply for my RC projects, I decided I would give it a try and see what I could come up with.
Because I didn't have any spare 'Puter Power systems laying around I did a search and found a Thermaltake 430W box on sale at Newegg for $23.00, so I figured, for the money, why not?
Once all the leads were trimmed off I bundled the 2 separate yellow 12v leads together and divided the ground leads into multiple leads for both the 12v and 5v circuits. I also used one lead to ground the green actuator wire so the unit would power up when I turned it on, and another to supply grounds to the LED indicator lights.
Because the original wiring harnesses exited out a single hole I needed to make a board up to house the 2 Safety Jack/Banana jacks, and the 2 Coaxial DC Power jacks I planned to use. I made one out of a piece of 1/16" aluminum and then notched holes in the box for clearance. Once everything was clearanced I screwed the board in place and installed the jacks.
The multiple Charging Harnesses from HK will work great with this set-up, as I have the option of connecting multiple applications to the Power Supply. To connect my servo testers I made up a couple of harnesses utilizing a male servo on one end and a Coaxial DC plug on the other.

I now have enough power to run my chargers along with my 3 servo testers, the Turnigy Servo Driver, the Turnigy CCPM Servo Master, and the GWS MT-1 Multiple Tester.

~I've posted additional info on my Servo testers on the "Servo Testers" pg.~

DIY: Using a PC power supply with your lipo charger (7 min 3 sec)

430W Power Supply (6 min 46 sec)

Power Supply 8-04-2012 (1 min 14 sec)

~~See Thumbs below~~

UP-DATE 1/05/2012:~Multiplex Connectors~
I've had a lot of inquiries about my Multi-pin Multiplex connectors so I thought I would post some info.

I've gotten all of my male & female multi-pin headers from Futurlec. I know there are other sources out there, but Futurlec was the only distributor I could find at the time. Because the male headers can be cut to fit the female connector regardless if it's a 2-pin or a 20-pin those are the ones I buy. I also like to get the double rowed headers as they are much narrower and don't require as much room. HK has a nice 6-pin multiplex, but because of the limitations I have not had an app. to use them on. Another option are the Ashlok MPX Harnesses if soldering is not your forte?

The first thing I do is to determine what header I want to use? Depending on what the wings encompass, Ailerons/Flaps/Landing Gear/Bay Doors/Nav Lights, and what ever else I might want to add later on, I'll pick the one that will give those options. I know I could use less space by combining all the + & - connections onto 1 pin each, but I'm cautious of loosing either connection, then I loose everything on the wings. Besides, these 14-pin headers are almost the same size of the HK 6-pin MPX with 8 more options.

I connect both the male & female header before any soldering begins as it helps to dissipate the heat. I also like to index them at this time by marking both ends with different colored Sharpies to help prevent reconnecting them backwards later. By all means tag each lead so it won't become confusing when you solder the opposite connector. Another thing I do is note my plans on paper, it does lesson the confusion when wiring the reverse side, not to mention any distractions that may occur during this operation. I always use the female header as the lead off the RX. That way there is no risk of accidentally shorting an exposed pin.

I then tin both the male & female headers along with the wires to help limit the contact time when I do the actual soldering. If the soldering tip is hot enough it takes a sec for the solder to flow. Before each wire is soldered on I install heatshrink to each wire so when the soldering is finished I can slide them down to insulate each union. Once both headers are done I do a continuity test to make sure each lead is solid. Once everything checks out, I put a piece of heatshink over the entire unit. Depending on which header I use, either 15mm or 20mm heatshrink works fine for me.

Once I'm happy with the connections, I solder the lead wires to their appropriate servo leads (I don't like to use servo extensions or Y-connectors). On the Rx side I crimp my own servo connectors for the appropriate channel after measuring how much lead I will need to reach the Rx location.

Once done, I again run a test on all leads with a servo tester to insure all servos, E-Tracts & Nav lights are operating properly.

One other little tid bit, I like to use these handy little Tube supports and racks on my wires and linkage tubing. They are really handy for various apps. on these planes.

~~See Thumbs below~~

Last edited by Sandancer; May 04, 2013 at 12:21 PM.
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Jun 12, 2011, 10:13 PM
Registered User
salvix's Avatar
Hello Gary,

You've got some great tips here! Blog subscribed

Where did you get the plastic housing and mount for your Quanum receiver?

I'm having the same problem trying to attach it to my JR 11x, so your method looked like the perfect solution!

Thank you!
Jun 16, 2011, 08:43 AM
"Auntie Samantha"
Sandancer's Avatar
Originally Posted by salvix
Hello Gary,

You've got some great tips here! Blog subscribed

Where did you get the plastic housing and mount for your Quanum receiver?

I'm having the same problem trying to attach it to my JR 11x, so your method looked like the perfect solution!

Thank you!
I made it out of one of those 2 3/4"x5 1/2"x3" plastic trays that come in those small parts cabinets. Filed 2 square holes for the Quanum tabs, attached a couple clips for the handle, a strip of velcro, and it's good to go!
Jul 12, 2011, 01:34 AM
Registered User
salvix's Avatar
Ha! That's a clever idea! Very simple but effective. I'll try something similar on mine (haven't had much time lately though).

Thank you for getting back to me!
Sep 03, 2011, 08:15 AM
Registered User


Love the mounting solution for the Quanum. I need to do the same thing for the JR11X. Where did you find those clips?

Jan 13, 2012, 07:22 PM
"Auntie Samantha"
Sandancer's Avatar
Originally Posted by dgfinch
Love the mounting solution for the Quanum. I need to do the same thing for the JR11X. Where did you find those clips?

I got these tube supports at MSC.
Jan 30, 2012, 06:05 PM
Registered User

where did you buy the 1W 90LM High Intensity LEDs,
do you have a link?

I found the 1W leds , i bought also the Maxi-lite board , but i have to report about your video "The Maxi-Lite System with a set of 1W 90LM High Intensity LEDs" that the 1W LEDs will never give the maximum brightness.
The Maxi-Lite board is only capable for standard LEDs , one output channel can provide only a max of 50Ma for standard LEDs.
I did a modification of the board by changing the series resistors on the board , so now i have maximum brightness of my 1W LEDs
with a current of 250mA . The chip outputs on the board can handle this current.
Last edited by jaccies; Feb 26, 2012 at 05:57 PM.
Jan 05, 2013, 10:15 PM
Registered User
I have been looking for a transport stand for my truck when I run across this. I know the thread is old but I had to say thanks for the info. Also, by moving it up to the top I hope it might help someone else.

Hope everyone has a great year.
Nov 05, 2013, 03:07 PM
Registered User
Aaron Wallace's Avatar
Great thread!


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