NEW!!!! E-Flite Carbon-Z Yak 54 BNF/PNP!!! - Page 54 - RC Groups
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Apr 17, 2011, 01:33 PM
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RadamanZero's Avatar
Red blue white, wonderful bird...very "light" for extreme 3D...and very fragile
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Apr 17, 2011, 01:43 PM
Sky Pilot
four stroke pwr's Avatar
Very delicate indeed!
Apr 17, 2011, 01:50 PM
Registered User
anyone know what color blue matches the CZ blue
I did an inverted landing and scuffed the top of the cowl a bit

Thanks Tim
Apr 17, 2011, 02:07 PM
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Ben D Wing's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by RadamanZero
...and very fragile
Only if you can't fly or land properly!
Apr 17, 2011, 02:42 PM
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RadamanZero's Avatar
He he yes...
Apr 17, 2011, 06:34 PM
"Aircraftus Fragmentum"
kydawg1's Avatar
I have the red/blue Seb Art Sukhoi 50E Sukhoi............amazing plane. I have just started building her.
Apr 17, 2011, 09:06 PM
Team Hillbilly
tominator06's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcpilot_971
anyone know what color blue matches the CZ blue
I did an inverted landing and scuffed the top of the cowl a bit

Thanks Tim
Not exact but Tamiya TS-15 from my local hobby shop was as close as I could find without getting a computer color match done. The fuselage in the pic had previously had all the paint removed before I got it. I repainted the entire bottom with the tamiya paint. It is slightly darker but then again the replacement wing I used looks like different shade than my original cz fuse anyway. I doubt I will notice it in flight.
Apr 17, 2011, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tominator06
Not exact but Tamiya TS-15 from my local hobby shop was as close as I could find without getting a computer color match done. The fuselage in the pic had previously had all the paint removed before I got it. I repainted the entire bottom with the tamiya paint. It is slightly darker but then again the replacement wing I used looks like different shade than my original cz fuse anyway. I doubt I will notice it in flight.

ok great

Thanks
Apr 18, 2011, 09:00 AM
Team Hillbilly
tominator06's Avatar
Got my first flight in this am after the rebuild. Everything went well but I did notice quite a big difference in the power of my new system. I ran a stock prop and lost quite a bit of top speed and punch for that matter. That doesn't really surprise me as the turnigy sk3548-900 I installed is rated @ 100kv less than stock. I am going to try a 12x6 for the next flight. I think that should be a good combo and is the rated prop for that motor. I haven't flown the bird for a while now so I can't really notice a huge difference in the new Hitec's. They worked flawlessly and the bird cae down when I told it to so they are a success. I Was excited about the built in flight logging in my new superbrain esc but during the tornado I created rebuilding the yak I misplaced that tiny usb dongle. Hopefully I can find it soon.
Last edited by tominator06; Apr 19, 2011 at 10:12 PM.
Apr 18, 2011, 09:06 AM
Whoooo!
StormJunkie's Avatar
Tom, I'm selling a stock motor in the classifieds if you are interested. It's under power systems. Linked to it a page or two back. $40 shipped priority mail. Iif you are 3d'ing, the APC 13x4e works great. 12x6e for sport flying.
Apr 18, 2011, 08:14 PM
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Trill's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by StormJunkie
You'll need a pair of small C clamp pliers and the right size allen wrenches. Last time I checked motor shafts weren't available. I need one too, but since I have two motors, the shaft replacement is on the back burner.


OK, my replacement motor shaft from HH arrived today. What is the technique for removal and installation of the motor shaft using a pair of small C clamp pliers and the right size allen wrenches? What are the right size allen wrenches?

Thanks again for the help!
Apr 18, 2011, 08:44 PM
Whoooo!
StormJunkie's Avatar
Think the allen wrench is a 1.5mm. If it was a stock motor (not a replacement bought from Eflite) you are going to have a very hard time getting the set screws out. Heating them with a solder iron prior to trying to remove them is a good idea. If you strip the head out and can't get them out, call HH and make them give you a new motor. The set screws are glued in on ones that come with planes, but not on ones you buy as replacements. OR (not recommended as this is one more place where shotty manufacturing is catching up with HH and they need to be held accountable) you can drill out the set screw that gets stuck. It's a pain to do this and you will likely have to drill the hole larger afterward and tap for a 2mm screw or something. Once that is done, place the forward side of the motor on two pieces of 2x4 with the shaft between them (or drill a hole larger than the shaft in one 2x4). Take a 4mm shaft or a smaller than 5mm drill bit that you don't mind ruining; place the flat side on just the shaft of the motor and tap with hammer (use a little force, but don't just slam the hammer down). Continue to tap it with the hammer until the old shaft is removed from just the back portion of the motor casing. After it is free from there you should be able to pull the motor apart and then slide the old shaft the rest of the way out of the front of the motor. Put the c clamp and washer (don't lose this when pulling the old shaft out) on the new shaft. Slide the new shaft in from the front side of the motor and replace the back housing. Line up the two flat spots on the shaft with the set screw locations on the back half of the motor. Lightly tap the shaft back in to the rear housing until flush. Reinstall set screws using removable loctite.
Apr 19, 2011, 02:04 AM
Registered User
Trill's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by StormJunkie
Think the allen wrench is a 1.5mm. If it was a stock motor (not a replacement bought from Eflite) you are going to have a very hard time getting the set screws out. Heating them with a solder iron prior to trying to remove them is a good idea. If you strip the head out and can't get them out, call HH and make them give you a new motor. The set screws are glued in on ones that come with planes, but not on ones you buy as replacements. OR (not recommended as this is one more place where shotty manufacturing is catching up with HH and they need to be held accountable) you can drill out the set screw that gets stuck. It's a pain to do this and you will likely have to drill the hole larger afterward and tap for a 2mm screw or something. Once that is done, place the forward side of the motor on two pieces of 2x4 with the shaft between them (or drill a hole larger than the shaft in one 2x4). Take a 4mm shaft or a smaller than 5mm drill bit that you don't mind ruining; place the flat side on just the shaft of the motor and tap with hammer (use a little force, but don't just slam the hammer down). Continue to tap it with the hammer until the old shaft is removed from just the back portion of the motor casing. After it is free from there you should be able to pull the motor apart and then slide the old shaft the rest of the way out of the front of the motor. Put the c clamp and washer (don't lose this when pulling the old shaft out) on the new shaft. Slide the new shaft in from the front side of the motor and replace the back housing. Line up the two flat spots on the shaft with the set screw locations on the back half of the motor. Lightly tap the shaft back in to the rear housing until flush. Reinstall set screws using removable loctite.
Sounds like I need to just buy your motor for $40!
Apr 19, 2011, 06:03 AM
Whoooo!
StormJunkie's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trill
Sounds like I need to just buy your motor for $40!
Only if you strip out those set screws...And even then, I would call HH and make them give you a new motor. Although I can buy more stuff as soon as I sell my motor I do need some TP for my Velox (Thunder Power batts)
Apr 19, 2011, 09:58 PM
Registered User
Trill's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by StormJunkie
Only if you strip out those set screws...And even then, I would call HH and make them give you a new motor. Although I can buy more stuff as soon as I sell my motor I do need some TP for my Velox (Thunder Power batts)
Yeah, go 3DHS Velox! But the Extreme Flight MXS has racing wingtips in addition to SFGs. Maybe that tips the scale to the MXS over the Velox.


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