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Old Jan 05, 2013, 10:54 PM
davebales is offline
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I've been flying a few months now. Started on the Super Cub. Moved up to the F27Q. I'm a bit gun shy on flying this one. How does it handle? I know my F27Q turns on a dime. Sometimes, a bit too well. I'd like to NOT destroy this one as I did my Extra 300 (not my fault, wing dislodged). How does it fly in wind to 15 mph?

What kind of throws should I start with? I could use the recommended throws in the manual but as I said, I don't want to nose this one in. As it stands, I've already replaced the prop just taxiing. Funny story, taxiing to test the rudder controls and sneezed. Gunned the throttle and hit some rather tall grass. Plane nosed over and snapped the prop. No biggie.

Also, how much shake should expect. It looks as though the prop shaft is just a smidge off. Not much, perhaps 1mm but it's not straight. I imagine at WOT, this would come into play.

Thanks for the help. LOVE this board and this hobby!
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 11:14 PM
krexken is offline
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Sounds like the noseover bent the motor shaft. I wouldn't fly it with it bent. Indeed, more rpm will make the vibration worse. It's really not too difficult to change the shaft. I'd say this plane flies somewhat similar to the Extra 300. Should handle the wind pretty well but not as good as your F27Q. I generally max out the throws on full and cut them back to around 60% for low rates but I rarely use low rates. I'd say to just start conservatively.
Old Jan 06, 2013, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davebales View Post
I've been flying a few months now. Started on the Super Cub. Moved up to the F27Q. I'm a bit gun shy on flying this one. How does it handle? I know my F27Q turns on a dime. Sometimes, a bit too well. I'd like to NOT destroy this one as I did my Extra 300 (not my fault, wing dislodged). How does it fly in wind to 15 mph?

What kind of throws should I start with? I could use the recommended throws in the manual but as I said, I don't want to nose this one in. As it stands, I've already replaced the prop just taxiing. Funny story, taxiing to test the rudder controls and sneezed. Gunned the throttle and hit some rather tall grass. Plane nosed over and snapped the prop. No biggie.

Also, how much shake should expect. It looks as though the prop shaft is just a smidge off. Not much, perhaps 1mm but it's not straight. I imagine at WOT, this would come into play.

Thanks for the help. LOVE this board and this hobby!
Too lazy to find the manual to check out what it says, but the yak will fly great with very little movement of control surfaces for starters. You can always work your way up in easy steps to see what you need or can handle. You can start in the neighborhood of 25% and go from there. It won't do 3d at those settings, but flies great aerobatics at really low settings. Get the movement down for starters if you are not an expert, then you only have to deal with the speed and throttle response which the stryker should have already helped you with.
Old Jan 06, 2013, 03:08 PM
carlostomasso is offline
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Well not the best landing, will have to reinforce the weak point on the fuse. More carbon for my yak 😬
Old Jan 06, 2013, 03:09 PM
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I have used some old cppro2 cf blades + epoxy
Old Jan 06, 2013, 03:11 PM
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Yak repair
Old Jan 06, 2013, 03:15 PM
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Yak fuse repair


My yak is almost done
Old Jan 06, 2013, 08:56 PM
Mugen4Lfe is offline
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@carlostomasso

Looks like the carbon fiber is blocking the air exit holes. Do you think that might cause any problems with the cooling of the electronics?
Old Jan 07, 2013, 04:17 AM
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Thanks. Yes, i have closed the exit wents, but don't think it will couse any probs.
But If yes, i will drill summer time some small holes in the original place, this will still provide enough cooling & strength. The esc seems to have enough air, never hot. Hope its just fine. Well might make an exit hole further back, so i don't loose the reinforcing.

Thanks for the input, i knew the holes have a good reason
Tom
Old Jan 07, 2013, 04:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Mugen4Lfe View Post
@carlostomasso

Looks like the carbon fiber is blocking the air exit holes. Do you think that might cause any problems with the cooling of the electronics?
You are right, the lipo has no cooling at all. Well i will take out the dremel and make holes in the carbon blades allowing cooling. Thank you again
Old Jan 07, 2013, 06:22 AM
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Could i close the cooling tunel completely and make a nice (exit cooling) grill in the white section of the batt hatch? This would provide cooling for the lipo and engine too & i can keep my cf reinforced back ?
Cheers
Old Jan 07, 2013, 07:06 AM
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If you feel you must strengthen this area, why not just put a couple of 2-3 mm carbon rods in this area. Way lighter and plenty of strength and don't block the holes.
Old Jan 07, 2013, 10:36 AM
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If you feel you must strengthen this area, why not just put a couple of 2-3 mm carbon rods in this area. Way lighter and plenty of strength and don't block the holes.
Well its done now, so looking for some other solutions.
Old Jan 07, 2013, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by carlostomasso View Post
Could i close the cooling tunel completely and make a nice (exit cooling) grill in the white section of the batt hatch? This would provide cooling for the lipo and engine too & i can keep my cf reinforced back ?
Cheers
I suppose you could do that, but I'm no expert. Just make sure whatever mods you do, that there's enough airflow over the electronics for proper cooling.
Old Jan 07, 2013, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Mugen4Lfe View Post
I suppose you could do that, but I'm no expert. Just make sure whatever mods you do, that there's enough airflow over the electronics for proper cooling.
Thank you


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