Kyosho 40 Spitfire II Conversion - Page 5 - RC Groups
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Jul 25, 2003, 12:18 AM
Involuntary Beta Tester
Here is a pictue of the pocket just inserted into one of Spit 1's ailerons. The slot is a snug fit for the wire.
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Jul 25, 2003, 12:22 AM
Involuntary Beta Tester
This is a more vertical look at the system. The TE on this model is hard wood, not sure if it's balsa but it seems harder than that. I just drilled a hole with the bit the same diameter as the wire; 3/32"
Jul 25, 2003, 12:23 AM
Involuntary Beta Tester
Here the aileron is inserted. In the crash the aileron hinges were torn out of the aileron. Spit 1 is still usefull.
Jul 25, 2003, 12:25 AM
Involuntary Beta Tester
I also worked on the retract support system last night. I installed the servo and the actuator valve. I used the same procedure as before except I used a slightly heavier mounting plate for the valve and cut excess material off and rounded the edges.
Jul 25, 2003, 12:27 AM
Involuntary Beta Tester
Here I've placed the air tank to test for spacing. Spring Air now makes a shorter tank. I'm thinking of getting it. to save space but this one will work fine as before.
Jul 25, 2003, 04:16 PM
No "R" !!!!!!!
Fitz Walker's Avatar
Quote:
Originally posted by kelvin
I'm always in favor of tweaking.


I would eventually like to try a 3 bladed prop as long as I can use a 3 blade spinner on it. I have one but have no idea if a 13 or 14" 3 blader will fit. The 3 bladed spinner is one of those that Hobby-Lobby used to sell.


I haven't seen an electric plane fly with a 3 or 4 bladed prop yet.
That's quite a reduction from a 15" prop to 12". I guess you chose the 15" because of the wider blades. Did you just cut the blades down a little at a time then measured the current draw?

Kelvin
Kelvin,

That is what I plan to use on the Zero (work is progressing again now that I have A/C in the workshop ). The LHS was able to get me an APC 13 x 13 3-blade prop. Now the problem is finding a good looking spinner small enough. The numbers seem to work out ok. I should be able to do a test run-up this weekend.

Keith Sparks has a C-130 with 4-bladed props on it. Really nice, hopefully he'll show up at DEAF with it. It was at the warbird event which you missed! Sorry, couldn't resist.

-FTZ
Jul 25, 2003, 11:47 PM
Involuntary Beta Tester
There's a scale warbird flyin in Waco in August. Lets take our warbirds down there. We'll probably be the only electrics. I've got two 5s4p packs. We'll put on a 15 minute dogfight.

I saw a group photo of the people that attended your warbird flyin in the AMA magazine. The flag behind everyone was blowing straight out. Looked like a very windy day.

Kelvin
Jul 26, 2003, 12:00 AM
Involuntary Beta Tester

Upset with Hitec


I sent my receiver in to be thouroughly checked for any possible damage after the crash of Spit 1. The USPS tracking showed it was delivered on July 5 but didn't get on their records until July 8. I called this past Monday, July 21 and they said a cold solder joint had been repaired and it should ship that day.

I got the receiver, a Slim 8 channel, today. However, it doesn't work at all! I took the receiver out of my LT-25 and the Spit motor arms and the servos work. All I can think of is they repaired the solder joint and didn't bother bench testing it. The receiver worked fine before I packed it up so their solder repair screwed something up.

I'm going to tell them that I'm not confident to put it in any of my planes now and demand a new one.

I had to return a servo a couple of months ago that wasn't repaired correctly. Granted the repairs were free but sometimes free isn't worth it.

I guess I'll have to buy a new one locally.

Kelvin
Jul 26, 2003, 01:32 AM
Eye Drather Beef Lying
ElectRick's Avatar
We usually get what we pay for, unfortunately.


Rick
Jul 26, 2003, 04:22 PM
Involuntary Beta Tester
Hitec receiver is in the mail with a note indicating my dissatisfaction.

Here is a picture of the final design for the rotary aileron linkage. I weighed all the parts for this system and for the pushrod/controll horn set up and it looks to be .2 - .3 oz heavier for each wing so I'm going to install it.

The servo is at more of an angle now as recommended by Walt. I've also inserted a 1/8 ID brass tubing where the control rod comes through the wing's TE. The two black marks on the wing's TC show where I've drilled the holes. Since the pocket is now where the center CA hing is I'll have to cut a new slot. I may use two CA hinges, one on each side of the pocket.

This is going to look nice not having those external linkages.
Jul 26, 2003, 06:25 PM
Involuntary Beta Tester
Now that I have practiced on the crashed wing it's time to install in the new wing.

Here are the parts that comprise the Rotary Drive System. An HS-85 is sitting on the 1/8" light ply plate I made. This servo comes with these side mounts and they are as light as the rubber and brass bushings used in the upright position.

The Kimbrough platic parts have a tree with adapters for your servo shafts. The adaptor is in the plastic sleev already. This part fits over the adapter and you screw it one the servo shaft with the normal screw. The aluminum bushing slips into the plastic sleeve and 4 set screws are used to tighten down on the drive shaft. The drive shaft goes through the TE where there is a bend. The shaft outside the wing slips into the pocket snugly. The pocket is made of a smooth hard material. The bent apart rotates in an arc and pushes on the pocket which causes the aileron to go up or down.
Jul 26, 2003, 06:30 PM
Involuntary Beta Tester
Here are the parts assembled. In order to remove the servo when it's in the wing you must center the servo and set the sleeve on the servo shaft so the set screws are parallel to the wing. Then all you need to do to get access to each screw is push the aileron to full up, access those screws then full down to get at those screws.

The shaft in the background shows how long it comes and how much I had to cut off.
Jul 26, 2003, 06:32 PM
Involuntary Beta Tester
The rotation of the shaft in the hole in the TE would eventually enlarge so it was recommended that I install a 1/8" inside diameter brass tube as a guide.

Here I've cut the tube. One end is angled to be flush with the TE. I used a motor tool with a cutting disk.
Jul 26, 2003, 06:34 PM
Involuntary Beta Tester
Testing fo fit. It's unfortuneate that where the shaft hole is drill is also where the CA hing is cut. I'm going to use some epoxy to strengthen the area.
Jul 26, 2003, 06:39 PM
Involuntary Beta Tester
I checked the tube alignment on the broken wing with the longer push rod. To get the same thing on the new wing I'm going to use this shaft to hold the guide tube while the epoxy sets.

First I coated the shaft with some Vaseline and slipped on the brass tube. The I applied some epoxy to the tube about 1/3 from the end of the tube. That way when I push the tube in the TE hole the epoxy will distribute along the tube but not get inbetween the shaft and tube. The Vaseline will prevent any epoxy from gluing the shaft to the tube (I hope). I just lined up the shaft and rested on the rib just like where it lines up on the broken wing prototype. Hopefully the shaft will be a the same height as the servo shaft. Now I just have to wait for the epoxy to set.


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