Kyosho 40 Spitfire II Conversion - Page 3 - RC Groups
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Jul 15, 2003, 12:40 PM
Eye Drather Beef Lying
ElectRick's Avatar
I gotta agree with JRB, nothing...but NOTHING else flies as smooth and has such a locked-in feel as a true pattern ship.

NOTH-ING! (in Sergeant Schultz accent)

I used to let a few low-time Kadet and sport pilots who could do basic aerobatics (loop/roll/stall turn) fly my old OPS 60/piped Modeltech Calypso years ago (just told 'em to keep the throttle back a bit and low rates on), and all of them were amazed at how EASY it was to fly! Some remarked that it was easier to control than a high-wing trainer, and they felt it inspired confidence. Silky smooth, responsive, but docile until YOU said otherwise. They are truly a goes-where-you-point-it-and-stays-there-till-you-do-otherwise type of plane. Until you've flown a well-trimmed real pattern ship (and I don't mean a Sportster or Four-Star), it's hard to appreciate the feel. It is addictive, and hard to go back to "regular" sport planes.

The best analogy I can make is comparing to how driving a Jeep feels vs. a Corvette.

Rick
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Jul 15, 2003, 09:12 PM
Involuntary Beta Tester
I can't stand to just write a bunch of text so I'm going to throw in some photos.

Here is the hatch I've cut. I some ways this one is better than the first and in other ways it isn't.
Jul 15, 2003, 09:15 PM
Involuntary Beta Tester
Hatch off - hatch on

I'll be painting the exposed balsa then applying some clear covering and spray it also. Too bad you can't cut a hatch and have a little bit of left over covering to wrap over the edges.

I lost most of the magnets in the crash or maybe I threw away that part of the rubble. I was not thinking straight that day in many ways.
Jul 15, 2003, 09:17 PM
Involuntary Beta Tester
I cut the cooling holes and drilled for the motor mount bolts.
Last edited by kelvin; Jul 16, 2003 at 08:50 AM.
Jul 15, 2003, 09:27 PM
Involuntary Beta Tester
I'm thinking of doing this; a rotary drive system for the aileron linkages.

In another Spit thread I found this link

http://www.proptwisters.org/rds2/

and on that page is a link to Walt Dimick's company that makes some of the parts for a ready made rotary system. I estimate it would be about 1/2 oz more for both wings. His 3/32" system weighs 11 gr while the control horn, clevis, metal rod and servo arm and screw weigh about 6 or 7 grams each

http://www.irfmachineworks.com/rds/

The picture shows my poor Spit I wing remants being used to see if this is a viable modification. A scrap piece of balsa sheeting supports the servo.

I could glue a 1/8 light ply mount across the wing ribs and using those Hitec side mounts screw it down.

It would be nice to have no external linkage showing.

I guess I have to try something new on this project. Nothing ventured nothing gained.

Kelvin
Jul 15, 2003, 09:37 PM
Involuntary Beta Tester
Quote:
Originally posted by jrb
Kelvin,

I too am considering my next project; and maybe need/want/should do a real pattern ship!

Actually I have a "pattern" ship in my closet. It's David Shotwells Venus carcass. The wing has holes in the bottom and the fuse has the front end torn off so I have to rebuild the nose.

I'm going to strip all that Monokote off, repair it, try to lighten it more if I can and then recover it. Then I'll have a pattern ship. Nobody will recognize my Venus with different covering.

I've got too much stuff to do

Kelvin
Jul 16, 2003, 01:42 AM
Eye Drather Beef Lying
ElectRick's Avatar
How about a nice WWII or desert camo paint/covering scheme for the Venus? Or one of my own favorites, a contemporary white and orange US Navy trainer scheme, with all the Rescue arrow stickers, some inked-on panel lines, etc.

One thing would be for sure, you'd have the only one like it. And few would guess it was a Venus.

Like you said, nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Rick
Jul 16, 2003, 09:41 AM
Visitor from Reality
Hi Kelvin
THose rotary aileron drives are something in the "read a lot about them, ain't seen nothing of them" category. THey've been around for ages, and seem to have "matured" in their technology - the early ones, I couldn't see how they could do other than build in control surface slop but newer ones look more feasible. No point in having carefully hidden linkages if your ailerons flap up and down freely because of them.

The "cheaper version" is to top hinge the ailerons, make up really short, slender horns from 1/16" thick steel or alloy, make up minimal pushrod connectors for the "outside" end and put the adjustment inside the model. That way, you don't have huge plastic model aircraft bits visible under your wings.

I learned all this useful stuff when I had lots of spare time. Then I had to leave the Air Force, and work for a living all day instead

Amen to the pattern ship! There is nothing like flying a well trimmed out pattern bird that does what you tell it without a committee decision and goes just where you point it. After a long spell of nothing happening, I restarted on my "E-Rotica" design and have kicked off the woodwork on my "Fusion" kit. Agree with Rick that a Venus in a different colour scheme would be a great project. "Thunderbirds" maybe ? (The USAF aerobatic team, not "International Rescue" of course).

Regards

Dereck
Jul 16, 2003, 10:13 PM
Involuntary Beta Tester
I epoxied the wing halves together. I routed a 24" servo extension in each wing. I've decided to try the rotary drive system for the hinges and ordered the parts.

I ordered a new ESC today from Esprit; Hacker Master 70 3p Opto and a new HS85 to replace the one I lost out at the crash site of Spit 1.

Now if Hitec would return my receive I sent in to have checked.

Kelvin
Jul 18, 2003, 12:36 PM
Registered User
Kelvin
Heres the robostrut.
Randy
Jul 18, 2003, 12:47 PM
Registered User
Kelvin
Heres a full shot, still unflow. Yes a little chicken and Havent been flying last couple of weeks
Randy
Jul 18, 2003, 01:33 PM
Involuntary Beta Tester
Quote:
Originally posted by RTaylor
Kelvin
Heres the robostrut.
Randy
The robostruts look way cool. How much do they weigh? Are they 3/16" sized" I weighed my Spring Airs from Spit 1. With the retracts, 5/32" struts, wheels, axles, collars, tubing, valve and air tank it's a bit under 6oz. I'm going to make some plastic strut liners out fo plastic tubing and glus some doors on after a couple of test flights on Spit II.

What the AUW on your Spit? I'd like to compare with my first one, my second and yours so we can see what the manufacturing tolerances are.

I'm already scared to fly my Spit II when it's ready. I used to be scared of landing it but after some wild take offs at SEFF I'm more scared to take it off now.

Just apply throttle gradually and staighten it up, get the tail off the ground to level the wing and apply power smoothly. To much power when the tail is on the ground will make the wing lift the plane off the ground before it's ready. I almost cartwheeled it at SEFF. Ed's took a video of it at SEFF. Looks scary in slow motion.

Once in the air and the retracts up it is easy to fly. Landings may be a little fast when you are at 7lbs but it will fly slow. You just have to watch the sink rate close to the runway. Also, keep a little power on as you land. If you chop the throttle the sink rate increases.

Good luck on your first flight.

Kelvin
Jul 18, 2003, 02:33 PM
Registered User
Kelvin
the strut as shown weighs 1.6 oz., I cut mine down a bit so I saved a little more. the size wire it will fit is deremined by the insert. the insert is jb welded into place. but due this after strut is cut down to right size. I have an extra because I tried that thing in and cant get it out and is wrong size.
Randy
Jul 20, 2003, 11:41 AM
Involuntary Beta Tester

Advice Needed


I'm at the point where I want to install the horizontal stab. The instructions show that the distance to the wing from the horizontal stab tips should be equal and the distance from the stab tips to the top of the vertical stab should be equal.

The horizontal stab seems to be pretty square with the veritcal stab but to the wing it appears the left side of the horizontal stab is lower than the right. Since the stabs seem to be pretty square I'm assuming the wing in the fuslage cradle is a little off so I've be trying to sand the right wing saddle on the fuse a bit.

My question is

Is it better to have the hortizonal stab even with the wing and have it off a little to the vertical stab? If it's not parallel to the wing it would cause a slight turn correct?

I think from the picture you can see the horizontal stab is a little low on the left side in relation to the wing.

I remember on Spit 1 it was pretty dead on.

Thanks

Kelvin
Jul 20, 2003, 12:17 PM
Recruiter - 60 Amp Club
Ed Lyerly's Avatar
Kelvin,
If it were mine I would make the fin and stab square. You can shim or sand the wing saddle to get the stab and wing the way they need to be.
Ed


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