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Jul 18, 2016, 12:31 PM
Sherman Knight
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_RattleSnake
The Triple Radian Mother Ship ready for a remote launch.
Please keep us up to date. Your stuff is SOOOOOO cool.

Sherman Knight
Team Horizon Hobby Sailplane
Red Sailplane
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Jul 18, 2016, 05:40 PM
Registered User
Hey guys, just purchased a preowned Radian Pro PNP....need Rx recommended Thanks
Jul 31, 2016, 02:39 AM
Registered User
Hi guys!
I need your help ... any body has flown anot Heron Mpx? I have to choose between Radian Pro and Heron ... that is much more expensive! But I love it! It's design ...
The point is ... do you think Radian Pro is a better choice then the Heron?

Thanks

Last question.. which radio do you use with?
Jul 31, 2016, 04:07 AM
Registered User
The pro is a great model but not necessarily a great sailplane, better models out there.

Not flown a Heron so can't say.

If you want full house AND a great sailplane, buy the Eflite 2m Radian and the pro wings. Best of both worlds then because the Parkzone Radian Pro wing fit the Eflite 2m Radian.

If you want something bigger then i just came in last night from flying my new Radian XL for the first time, flies AMAZING and i'm only using 2200mah packs which i already had lots of. And here in the UK it's only like £20-25 more than the 2m Radian (£167)

Radios, i use the DX9 for all my sailplanes and DLG's, but the Taranis is VERY good if you are prepared to learn OpenTX
Last edited by i_am_mark_evans; Jul 31, 2016 at 04:17 AM.
Aug 01, 2016, 10:31 AM
aka KF7DS
Quote:
Originally Posted by BornToBeFree
Hi guys!
I need your help ... any body has flown anot Heron Mpx? I have to choose between Radian Pro and Heron ... that is much more expensive! But I love it! It's design ...
The point is ... do you think Radian Pro is a better choice then the Heron?

Thanks

Last question.. which radio do you use with?
I have flown both and the Heron is a better FH sailplane.

Don
Aug 03, 2016, 08:42 AM
Registered User
The_RattleSnake's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by duworm
Please keep us up to date. Your stuff is SOOOOOO cool.

Sherman Knight
Team Horizon Hobby Sailplane
Red Sailplane
You asked for it!
Drone launches another Drone Mid Flight. (5 min 30 sec)
Sep 11, 2016, 09:06 AM
How many? One more!
kacknor's Avatar

Just for fun...


Is it that day already?

Why My Radian Pro Flies Bent....

Why My Radian Pro Flies Bent (3 min 0 sec)


JD
Nov 19, 2016, 03:22 AM
Registered User
crash8384's Avatar
anyone flying a pro full house with a JR 12x tx ? rx is a JR921.
Mar 01, 2017, 11:32 AM
Registered User
vcaruso's Avatar

Power Using A Hacker A30


My original motor is getting quite tired and I am waiting a longer time to get to my desired altitude. I went through my collection of motors and found a mint Hacker A30. To my surprise, the can size was only a few mm larger and the mount pattern was exact! I could not believe things went that smooth....it bolted right on.

I am getting the feeling the flimsy plastic mount will need to be strengthened it up somehow. I was thinking about painting epoxy to the inside of the white plastic mount to add strength. I am guessing I will have to thin the epoxy a lil to make sure I do not make the mount too thick to the point it will not slide back onto the fuse. I wish I could just epoxy the mount onto the fuse, but that will make future servicing near impossible. It came off so easy "this time".

Any ideas or suggestions for strengthening the motor mount? I am also going to strengthen the rest of the plane as it is probably going to be going a lil faster than it used to.

Thanks for any input that comes to mind.
Vince
Mar 01, 2017, 12:40 PM
Proud member of LISF and ESL
Be careful about getting too much power on the foam fuse. I have seen over powered Radians just have the nose fly off.

If you want to reinforce the fuse you can do it in a few ways.

Fiberglass tape works well. Run the fibers from nose toward tail in the canopy compartment. Spreads the pull over a larger area. When the foam fails it fails at the bead to bead bond. The tape helps reduce that stress by spreading it over a large area.

If you want to use epoxy be sure to put some cloth in it. Otherwise the epoxy just makes things stiff but does not really help much with the stress put on the fuse by the pull of the motor. The epoxy cracks and you have nothing. Some 2 ounce fiberglass cloth will help. Same idea as the glass tape. Run it from nose back to spread the pull over a larger area of foam.

Same for the area under the motor mount.

No need to glob the epoxy on. Very little epoxy, just enough to wet out the fiberglass is all you need. Adding extra just adds weight. The glider guys know how to make very strong foam/glass structures with glass and very little epoxy. Anything more than wetting the cloth and bonding to the surface of the foam has little to no value.

Once you put the epoxy/cloth on have something to press it against the foam to be sure it gets good contact. A thin layer of epoxy to wet the foam, then lay on the cloth and smooth it out and be sure it is fully wet. A stiff brush can work well her.

Now use a baggie to press the cloth into the foam and the epoxy. Then take a paper towel and wipe off the excess epoxy.

Take some tape and put it across the canopy area to create a temporary shell. Inflate a balloon inside the canopy area to press the cloth onto the foam to be sure it has great contact and let it set. You can cover the epoxy with wax paper if you like. Or a very light coating of powder on the balloon may help it release more easily. Let it sit overnight. Remove the balloon and the tape shell and you should be all set.

The advantage of tape over epoxy and cloth is that it allows the foam to flex in a crash. You are trying to add tension strength to handle the motor load. Epoxy and cloth creates a rigid structure that will be stiff and therefore can not flex to absorb impact.

Hope that helps.

Keep it light. Weight does not add strength.
Last edited by aeajr; Mar 01, 2017 at 12:47 PM.
Mar 01, 2017, 01:18 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
Here is my Radian Pro with an EFlite Power 10, which bolts right in after reversing the shaft. I used a disk of thin plywood to reinforce the firewall. With that motor the Pro goes straight up and I haven't had any issues with twisting fuselages. It's a good idea to remove the three plastic lugs that hold the firewall and glue them in properly. That should be done anyway, even if no motor upgrade is planned.

The P10 spent some time in the Radian as well, and now it's in my Pilatus B4.
Mar 01, 2017, 05:58 PM
Registered User
HeliWobbles's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by vcaruso
My original motor is getting quite tired and I am waiting a longer time to get to my desired altitude. I went through my collection of motors and found a mint Hacker A30. To my surprise, the can size was only a few mm larger and the mount pattern was exact! I could not believe things went that smooth....it bolted right on.

I am getting the feeling the flimsy plastic mount will need to be strengthened it up somehow. I was thinking about painting epoxy to the inside of the white plastic mount to add strength. I am guessing I will have to thin the epoxy a lil to make sure I do not make the mount too thick to the point it will not slide back onto the fuse. I wish I could just epoxy the mount onto the fuse, but that will make future servicing near impossible. It came off so easy "this time".

Any ideas or suggestions for strengthening the motor mount? I am also going to strengthen the rest of the plane as it is probably going to be going a lil faster than it used to.

Thanks for any input that comes to mind.
Vince
I found the the flat face of the motor mount around the 4 holes to be the weakest part.
Some 0.6mm aluminium cut and drilled so that the it slipped over the plastic screw hole "bosses ", cut the cooling slots and Sikaflex or silicone it inside the mount.

It adds very little weight and doesn't alter any spacing so you use the same screws.
Good luck.
Ted
Mar 01, 2017, 06:18 PM
Registered User
vcaruso's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliWobbles
I found the the flat face of the motor mount around the 4 holes to be the weakest part.
Some 0.6mm aluminium cut and drilled so that the it slipped over the plastic screw hole "bosses ", cut the cooling slots and Sikaflex or silicone it inside the mount.

It adds very little weight and doesn't alter any spacing so you use the same screws.
Good luck.
Ted
Good stuff.....I already have one crack in the mount. You can see it in one of the pics I uploaded. The crack starts at the screw hole and goes off to the left where the cooling hole is.

I am anxious to get this thing back in the air, but its more important to collect and process this kind of information and then make my decisions.

Thanks for your input Ted.
Vince
Mar 21, 2017, 05:21 PM
Registered User
MozFlyer's Avatar

New Glider


Message deleted
Thanks.
Carlos
Last edited by MozFlyer; Mar 21, 2017 at 06:21 PM. Reason: Changed my mind
May 08, 2017, 09:47 AM
Registered User

Found radiant pro canopy Omaha NE


Walking in one of my favorite parks to fly in this morning I found a radian pro canopy. It was in the field near Lawrence youngman lake at 192nd and Dodge.

If you would like it please pm me - then let's fly our radians together!


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