Originally Posted by Michael Paxton

The dual output wires from the BEC Pro are because one servo connector is not rated above 5 amps.
Y'ing them together serves no purpose at all. You're down to one connector again.
Just use one and check to make sure you don't pull too many amps for that connector.

Totally agree...I use both leads plugged into my JR (R-921 RX)... it gives me peace of mind. Servos in a stall position can draw amps...On the ESC lead, I just use a 3" extension before the RX and disable the red wire on the extension,now if I want to program the ESC I simply disconnect the extension at ESC lead and program away..I have made the mistake of disabling the red wire directly at the ESC...never again..just use an extension..

Originally Posted by Michael Paxton

The dual output wires from the BEC Pro are because one servo connector is not rated above 5 amps.
Y'ing them together serves no purpose at all. You're down to one connector again.
Just use one and check to make sure you don't pull too many amps for that connector.

That's what I'm trying to do but I'm out of space on my Rx. I'm going to have to Y the flaps and elevators to get everything else I want and have two power inputs from the BEC. Using a Y on the ESC lead allows me to provide power off one of the outputs of the BEC without tying up another slot just for power. I'm not using the internal BEC so all I need is a signal and ground.

Originally Posted by Mike Freas

That's what I'm trying to do but I'm out of space on my Rx. I'm going to have to Y the flaps and elevators to get everything else I want and have two power inputs from the BEC. Using a Y on the ESC lead allows me to provide power off one of the outputs of the BEC without tying up another slot just for power. I'm not using the internal BEC so all I need is a signal and ground.

Hi Mike,

You missed the point of my previous post, you don't have to give up any channels, your BEC leads will Y into any port, I prefer the first and the last port in my receiver, thus providing power to both ends of the bus.

I'll try to illustrate in a more procedural way. Lets say that the first port of your receiver is Aileron 1 (Yes, I'm a Futaba guy), the last port of your receiver is Flap 2 (port 8 in my example). You remove Aileron 1 from port 1and plug in a Y-Harness, plug Aileron 1 into one of the ends of the Y-Harness and plug one of your BEC leads into the other end of the Y-Harness. Now remove Flap 2 from port 8 and plug in a second Y-Harness there, plug Flap 2 into one of the ends of the 2nd Y-Harness and the second of your BEC leads into the other end of the 2nd Y-Harness.

Ultimate power distribution, all programability preserved!

One final comment (as stated above), you may choose to use your ESC/throttle port as one of the places to plug in a Y-Harness because this way you can clip the red lead on the end of the Y-Harness that receives the ESC lead and thus isolate the ESCs on-board BEC without having to either remove a pin or damage your ESC lead.

Hope this clears things up a little.

- Birger

im not sure where the servo horns in the manual come from, im just using the stock HITEC servo horns they work fine

Originally Posted by bradenj

I ordered the stock servos called out in the manual and I was going to install but realized the the servo arms are diff then the one in the picture. do you have to buy these separate?

It's them, just cut off the other tabs on the servo horn

You are correct. I missed this. It's a great idea!

Originally Posted by bdelapen

Hi Mike,

You missed the point of my previous post, you don't have to give up any channels, your BEC leads will Y into any port, I prefer the first and the last port in my receiver, thus providing power to both ends of the bus.

I'll try to illustrate in a more procedural way. Lets say that the first port of your receiver is Aileron 1 (Yes, I'm a Futaba guy), the last port of your receiver is Flap 2 (port 8 in my example). You remove Aileron 1 from port 1and plug in a Y-Harness, plug Aileron 1 into one of the ends of the Y-Harness and plug one of your BEC leads into the other end of the Y-Harness. Now remove Flap 2 from port 8 and plug in a second Y-Harness there, plug Flap 2 into one of the ends of the 2nd Y-Harness and the second of your BEC leads into the other end of the 2nd Y-Harness.

Ultimate power distribution, all programability preserved!

One final comment (as stated above), you may choose to use your ESC/throttle port as one of the places to plug in a Y-Harness because this way you can clip the red lead on the end of the Y-Harness that receives the ESC lead and thus isolate the ESCs on-board BEC without having to either remove a pin or damage your ESC lead.

Hope this clears things up a little.

- Birger

Just started the build tonight

Originally Posted by bradenj

Just started the build tonight

Should go together nicely

Originally Posted by Michael Paxton

You are correct. I missed this. It's a great idea!

Just trying to help

Originally Posted by bdelapen

Hi Mike,

You missed the point of my previous post, you don't have to give up any channels, your BEC leads will Y into any port, I prefer the first and the last port in my receiver, thus providing power to both ends of the bus.

I'll try to illustrate in a more procedural way. Lets say that the first port of your receiver is Aileron 1 (Yes, I'm a Futaba guy), the last port of your receiver is Flap 2 (port 8 in my example). You remove Aileron 1 from port 1and plug in a Y-Harness, plug Aileron 1 into one of the ends of the Y-Harness and plug one of your BEC leads into the other end of the Y-Harness. Now remove Flap 2 from port 8 and plug in a second Y-Harness there, plug Flap 2 into one of the ends of the 2nd Y-Harness and the second of your BEC leads into the other end of the 2nd Y-Harness.

Ultimate power distribution, all programability preserved!

One final comment (as stated above), you may choose to use your ESC/throttle port as one of the places to plug in a Y-Harness because this way you can clip the red lead on the end of the Y-Harness that receives the ESC lead and thus isolate the ESCs on-board BEC without having to either remove a pin or damage your ESC lead.

Hope this clears things up a little.

- Birger

Good explanation Birger. That's what I was trying to say a page or so ago, but you did a better job of explaining it.

Gary Thanks,

I have the motor, very nice and thanks for the mod. I'm green on the
electric r/c and was not even sure how the sink, fairing and motor lined up just yet.
got it now. they don't.

And i was thinking the same thing about the slot between the ducts where they meet.

I also have digital/audio temp and voltage sensors that I have built into my cockpit. if anything
gets to warm or to low i will know it before its too late.

Thanks Again.
Jim

Originally Posted by jamesbuckley

Gary Thanks,

I have the motor, very nice and thanks for the mod. I'm green on the
electric r/c and was not even sure how the sink, fairing and motor lined up just yet.
got it now. they don't.

And i was thinking the same thing about the slot between the ducts where they meet.

I also have digital/audio temp and voltage sensors that I have built into my cockpit. if anything
gets to warm or to low i will know it before its too late.

Thanks Again.
Jim

I don't use the motor fairing. If your looking at the fan from the out side of the jet (through the hatch with the jet inverted) align the heat sink with the open slot facing you. (apply a few dabs of epoxy to secure the heatsink to the motor)
Then slide a large piece of heat shrink tubing over all three motor wires, just long enough to poke through the thrust tube.
Form the wires so there is only one wire visible along the front-to-back axis, and shrink the tubing. It will stay in that shape and form a very unobrusive fairing for the wires.

Tam,

That looks awesome, I am going to be horsing around with my setup for a while. I'm in no hurry to finish, I live in Michigan and its winter no-fly time..30 degrees and getting ready to snow again.

I have installed digital temp and voltage sensors in my cockpit, I am going to test all setups while waiting for summer to fly.

no hurry for me... let us know when they are done.

Thanks Again
Jim

Jim, could you post a picture of the sensors in the cockpit? Also, what make/brand are they?

Originally Posted by bradenj

Just started the build tonight

There's no beer in the photo. Perhaps it is in your hand while taking the photo?