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Old Jan 12, 2012, 12:17 AM
s.nase is offline
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That sounds like a faulty standby voltage.

Even if you just plug the power cord, the standby voltages must be present. This is a common mistake, since the power supply (old version) in standby mode quickly overheat.
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 03:40 AM
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i have the same problem as pithiki . Even i contect 32 to 34 pin and 31 to +12V power supply doesn't work (green LED not on). I check all pins for stby but nothing

Ps. I have old version of power supply
Old Feb 12, 2012, 02:34 AM
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I have the same dps-800gb power supply and the same issues.
If nothing is connected to it at all should the little green light be on? I presume also I should have some kind of voltage on something right?
Old May 22, 2012, 02:41 PM
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Try from this link recommendations http://translate.google.com.ua/trans...mment%2F270763
Old Aug 24, 2012, 12:16 PM
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I manage to get these working in series and works fine.

Simply

1. Take bonnet away
2. release mains connector from case and unscrew GND.
3. separate internals (open corner screws)
4. put it to table as bottom up, connector strip towards you.
5. locate small 8 pin connector at left side (topside near fans)
6. solder jumper between pin1 (deep purple) and pin4 (tan) (these are pson / pskill so pins 31+34
7. solder jumper from pin5 (light brown) and +12V (left side long connector strip) (pin 30 to +12V)

To make 25V 2000W 82A (240V) system
Prepare another power supply to same stage.

Mark one to 12V and second 24V

Now we should have two 12V power supplies ready.
Take DC ground out from 24V power supply, by removing copper layer from power strip end both sides (from bottom left and right and top left and right)
verify that yo dont have connectivity to mains ground from power strip long middle strip. Be carefully when removing copper as PCB has copper in 3 layers.

If You managed to make 24V PS as DC isolated concratulations, time to put internals back to cases.

Now put 12V case to table as botton up and 24V case to top of 12V case as top up and line cases parallel. (power strips towards You.

Tape power supplies together with glass fiber reinforced tape.

Drill 3.5mm hole to long left top power strip so that it goes through lower long left power strip. (this is going to be the parallel bridge between power supplies)
I used leftover hexagon from HP DPS 600GB that is located in +12V and GND.

Then prepare power connectors from 4mm bullet tube to be soldered in 12V gnd side long power strip on the bottom right (prepare these bullet tubes by dremeling 1.5mm wide in middle of solder end) put these bullet tubes proper place and solder them.

Put heat shrink insulator over bullet tubes and shrink with heat gun.
Cover power strips with pvc heat shrink (120mm wide) 15mm long piece.

Cover whole PS case with pvc heat shrink (200mm wide) length of Power supply is 215mm, so cut 230mm long piece.
Pull cover over and position it so that both ends have same amount over the case.

Start heating from the ends, keep heat gun around 200mm away of pvc covering, as it's easy too screw it up by too high heat and keeping heat gun too close.

Now You have nice and neat 25V 2000w 82A power supply ready for feeding all Your charging needs

Only minor negative thing is that sourcing these power supplies can be pretty expensive in ebay or another places.

Regards
Sami
Last edited by SJo1; Aug 24, 2012 at 01:08 PM. Reason: typos
Old Oct 24, 2012, 07:55 AM
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I've got a couple of these but have a question...Jumpering the pins like in the pic above, the supply turns on and the fan runs slow. Good so far.
Does the fan speed up as the load/heat increases?

I haven't had an opportunity to do any real tests on it and am bored at work.
Thanks,
davidk
Old Oct 24, 2012, 06:22 PM
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Yes, the fans on these PSU's are thermal control, so they ramp up as they are needed. No need to "short pin 4 to ground" link on the DPS-600pb supplies.

Cheers
Whitedg
Old Nov 24, 2012, 08:56 PM
JKing3 is offline
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Sjo1, can you expand on how you remove the DC ground by removing the copper layers? Some pictures would be helpful.

Thanks.
Old Nov 27, 2012, 07:51 PM
s.nase is offline
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insulating washers FET on both sides of the PCB. The threaded post in the case contract by 2mm.
Old Mar 06, 2013, 08:03 AM
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Can I drill a hole in the GRD and 12V connector to fix the 12V and GRD cable with a cable lug?
Old Mar 07, 2013, 04:02 AM
Felborn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirkJan View Post
Can I drill a hole in the GRD and 12V connector to fix the 12V and GRD cable with a cable lug?
I would not recommend it, there is a third layer of copper in the middle of the board, not sure if that would short circuit the whole thing
Old Mar 07, 2013, 07:21 AM
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Thx Felborn!

somewhere in my mind there rang a bell "multilayer" ..

Hereby a schema for also using the the 3.3V (8A max) and 5V (2A max)
Old Mar 07, 2013, 08:30 AM
still4given is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJo1 View Post
I manage to get these working in series and works fine.

Simply

1. Take bonnet away
2. release mains connector from case and unscrew GND.
3. separate internals (open corner screws)
4. put it to table as bottom up, connector strip towards you.
5. locate small 8 pin connector at left side (topside near fans)
6. solder jumper between pin1 (deep purple) and pin4 (tan) (these are pson / pskill so pins 31+34
7. solder jumper from pin5 (light brown) and +12V (left side long connector strip) (pin 30 to +12V)

To make 25V 2000W 82A (240V) system
Prepare another power supply to same stage.

Mark one to 12V and second 24V

Now we should have two 12V power supplies ready.
Take DC ground out from 24V power supply, by removing copper layer from power strip end both sides (from bottom left and right and top left and right)
verify that yo dont have connectivity to mains ground from power strip long middle strip. Be carefully when removing copper as PCB has copper in 3 layers.

If You managed to make 24V PS as DC isolated concratulations, time to put internals back to cases.

Now put 12V case to table as botton up and 24V case to top of 12V case as top up and line cases parallel. (power strips towards You.

Tape power supplies together with glass fiber reinforced tape.

Drill 3.5mm hole to long left top power strip so that it goes through lower long left power strip. (this is going to be the parallel bridge between power supplies)
I used leftover hexagon from HP DPS 600GB that is located in +12V and GND.

Then prepare power connectors from 4mm bullet tube to be soldered in 12V gnd side long power strip on the bottom right (prepare these bullet tubes by dremeling 1.5mm wide in middle of solder end) put these bullet tubes proper place and solder them.

Put heat shrink insulator over bullet tubes and shrink with heat gun.
Cover power strips with pvc heat shrink (120mm wide) 15mm long piece.

Cover whole PS case with pvc heat shrink (200mm wide) length of Power supply is 215mm, so cut 230mm long piece.
Pull cover over and position it so that both ends have same amount over the case.

Start heating from the ends, keep heat gun around 200mm away of pvc covering, as it's easy too screw it up by too high heat and keeping heat gun too close.

Now You have nice and neat 25V 2000w 82A power supply ready for feeding all Your charging needs

Only minor negative thing is that sourcing these power supplies can be pretty expensive in ebay or another places.

Regards
Sami
Are you actually pulling 2000w from those 4mm bullet connectors? Seems they would fail at that current.
Old Mar 11, 2013, 09:36 AM
s.nase is offline
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No!
Between the upper and lower contact pad to GND and +12 V run further conductor tracks (multilayer wiring board). Definitely not a drill hole through the pads. You have the upper and lower contact connecting from the outside to each other. The easiest way is with a small brass corner (solder). Top solder the sockets. Solder down the brass corner, and with the sockets connect (solder).

A 4mm connector compatible only 40A permanently. With two 4mm sockets 85A are no longer a problem.
Last edited by s.nase; Mar 11, 2013 at 09:50 AM.
Old Mar 14, 2013, 08:55 AM
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17V output??


Quote:
Originally Posted by DirkJan View Post
Thx Felborn!

somewhere in my mind there rang a bell "multilayer" ..

Hereby a schema for also using the the 3.3V (8A max) and 5V (2A max)
Thanks firstly to SJo1 for the steps posted to turn these on.
I have mananged to get a single DPS-800GB unit running by using your method.

Dirkjan, thanks to you for identifying the pins for 3.3V and 5V.

Question:
Could I possibly get 17V out of a single DPS-800GB with a usable Amperage for lipo charging?

As I understand it, you'll firstly need a -12V, which this PSU does not seem to have, and even then you are limited by the 2A on the +5V rail, correct?

Or would my only option be to build 2 of them in series and then somehow dial the Voltage down to get 17V, since 24V in too much for the charger.

It is to feed a Turnigy 400W 20A Lipo Charger at full capacity. Input is 11V to 17V only.

Much thanks for any help in the right direction.


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