Hp DPS 800gb a power supply - Page 17 - RC Groups
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Feb 07, 2017, 08:51 AM
Registered User
Originally Posted by sec1223
just to confirm that these boards are multi layer BUT....

it looks to me like you have a certain area on both pads that are connected and it will be possible to drill through tho's areas.
How did you get it to look like this please
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Feb 17, 2017, 09:32 AM
nigelsheffield's Avatar
Just got mine in post, did mod to power up as per first page of this forum.
Unfortunately mine is dead as a doornail....
Probably not worth it but if there is a simple fix which does not need major surgery I would give it a go...Anyone know if there is a stock problem?
Feb 23, 2017, 08:23 AM
nigelsheffield's Avatar
Got a replacement from the ebay seller and it worked right off.
It is not an original though but a equivalent probably cheaper version, the fan is noisy, the dps600 I have is actually quieter ..
I told the seller but also said it does not really matter, anyone know if the equivalent cheaper DPS 800 is more noisy though?
It just I can't really use it where I wanted now or it will annoy everyone...
Feb 25, 2017, 05:37 AM
Registered User
Geoff_S's Avatar
I realise that this thread already provides enough info on how to get these PSU's working, but I thought I would do a bit more testing to definitively identify the functions of the pins, according to the excellent procedure provided by Xandrios in this thread: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=599

What I found is as follows:
- pin 30 = current share pin
- pin 32 = remote sense pin
- pin 33 = remote sense return pin
- pin 40 = -12V (at least that's what I'm assuming it is - on mine with no load on the pin, it reads -9.5V)

The power on the 3.3V and 5.0V pins (shown in the diagram) is available even when the unit is not running but plugged into the mains.

Pin 28 is a bit of a mystery - it reads 4.65V when unit is powered up. Adding a 1K resistor to ground or +12V has no effect on the output voltage or fan speed. It's not a +5V line (pins 29 and 35 are) since it is too far away from 5.0V. Resistance to ground is 25 kOhm.

Anyway, to get the PSU to start up all you need is to short pins 31 and 34. There is no need to connect the current share pin (#30) to +12V - it is only needed if you are connecting multiple PSU's in parallel (in which case pin 30 on all the units should be connected to each other). Connecting it to +12V does raise the output voltage by approximately 0.55V though.

Adjusting the voltage by connecting a pot between pin 32 and ground works fine without connecting the 3rd terminal of the pot to +12V. I'd suggest a 1.8k resistor in line with the pot, because if the resistance between pin 32 and ground drops below this, the over-voltage protection kicks in.

I've taken the liberty of modifying the connection diagrams which have been shown in previous posts, in case it helps anyone else in the future.
Last edited by Geoff_S; Feb 25, 2017 at 09:09 PM.
Feb 25, 2017, 05:53 AM
ancora imparo
jj604's Avatar
Nice summary. I've posted a link on the reference thread.

Mar 13, 2017, 11:01 AM
Registered User

I got faulty PSU.
I know it's faulty because when I plug AC power I don't hear the 'Click' sound.
Is anyone know how to fix this problem? or Can someone give links to other forums in this issue?

Thank you !
Mar 19, 2017, 11:25 PM
Registered User
Hi, doesn't anybody know how to wire up one of these switches up to it

12V 16mm Latching Angel Eye LED Push Button Switch Flat Head Metal illuminated Switch

I got the switch side of things working but can't get the LED to lite up
Mar 20, 2017, 10:38 AM
Frankenstein recycled packs
rampman's Avatar
Originally Posted by Rippernz
Hi, doesn't anybody know how to wire up one of these switches up to it

12V 16mm Latching Angel Eye LED Push Button Switch Flat Head Metal illuminated Switch

I got the switch side of things working but can't get the LED to lite up
Did you connect a 12V ground to it yet? Switches with a light will need a ground connected to work.
Also note these are rated at only 3 amps.

Mar 21, 2017, 02:48 AM
Registered User
I did some more searching and found a pic of wiring of a similar switch and copied that and got it working, so all good now.
Apr 11, 2017, 10:30 AM
Way too busy for this nonsense
yorb's Avatar

Is my DPS-800 DOA?

I bought one of these after reading Oscar's article (https://oscarliang.com/cheap-lipo-charger-psu/) and followed his directions, but I get absolutely nothing when I plug it in. No green light, no fans, no voltage on the main 12v connector.

The PCB is bent on the corner, probably damaged in shipping. That's the only visible issue and I figured it was just cosmetic, but I'm wondering if it was enough to kill the PSU. Should I try to get it replaced even though I've already soldered to the connectors, or is there something else I can test?

Skimming through this thread it looks like there are some alternate jumper locations, but I don't know anything about PSUs so I don't wanna just try random things. This is the one I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/112274380088

Apr 25, 2017, 12:52 PM
Registered User
One more done tonight. Really need too find a better way to finish the end. Ideally a 3D printer cover. I did this one differently on the jumper pin. Just the one.

Still pop the top off to remove the clip and the cable clamp. Option to fit different LED is an option.
Last edited by Pete Wright; Apr 25, 2017 at 02:05 PM.
Apr 25, 2017, 07:23 PM
Master Prop Breaker
Personally, I think the way you finished the ends looks good with the black heatshrink. Mine is lightyears worse, I used Kapton tape to cover the exposed contacts, functional but ugly.

Originally I was using two of these in series but lately Ive found that one power supply will cover all my needs with my Icharger 3010. I only use 4s packs nowadays I'll parallel charge two 5000mAh packs or up to five 2200mAh packs. 30A is fast enough for me.
Apr 25, 2017, 08:57 PM
ancora imparo
jj604's Avatar
FWIW, self-fusing Silicone tape is excellent for finishing and insulating these blade connectors when they have wires soldered on that stick out.
Can be wrapped around all exposed surfaces and the wire and when set effectively creates a custom made insulating "boot". Easier and more effective than heat shrink.

Apr 29, 2017, 06:49 PM
Registered User
What about hot glue instead the black cover?
Apr 30, 2017, 06:31 AM
ancora imparo
jj604's Avatar
Should be OK at these low voltages. I have always assumed hot glue is an insulator but I read somewhere that some hot glue is conductive.

Apparently the Brand name stuff is OK. Depends on what it has in it. I doubt it is an issue at 12 or 24 V though.

As always this could be total BS - I read it on the Internet.

Originally Posted by tmoshe
What about hot glue instead the black cover?

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