Originally Posted by hoppy

You don't have to split the fuselage.

See posts 1671 and 1672.

I think Radio Shack has the right size magnet wire.

(That rudder mechanism has to go, there's no fixing it.)

thank you for the link. i have not been following this thread for a while, so i missed that. and i didn't think the clear plastic tubing was wide enough to carry the 3 wires, but now that i know, i will try the servo-in-fin as shown.
i have tried servos in tail and the precision is absolute. no play. 3 of my t-tail sailplanes have them in the elevator, using the same method that you told me. and, as this plane is nose heavy, the servo in tail also helps the balance so a larger pack can be used for safety margin, or for using telemetry (just 16 extra grams) to tell me the charge of the pack.
still, i would like to experiment with the kind of hinge that comes in the rudder. any link where to get them?

thanks again.

I'll give you one if I can find mine.

well, the plastic tubing was too narrow, and only 1 wire could fit, so eventually i followed heli advice and opened the fuse, although i did it as little as possible.
i softened the upper glue line with ronsonol cigarette lighter fluid and ran a thin shim to separate the upper line, then cut along the line of the sticker on the side, so it's hard to detect. removed that piece and soldered the extension wires to a 9 grams servo and fitted it at the edge of the stab, as close as possible to the rudder. i didn't do the elevator because the pushrod runs smooth.
i tried to make the hinge/horn work without too much drag but it just does not do when it is not at 90 degrees.
thank you folks for all the advice.

Originally Posted by phil alvirez

well, the plastic tubing was too narrow, and only 1 wire could fit, so eventually i followed heli advice and opened the fuse, although i did it as little as possible.
.

3 strands of 24ga magnet wire fit with plenty of room to spare Phil. I'm referring to the wire used to wind motors/magnets. It's coated with varnish and very thin.

Hoppy:
How (or where) did you get it in 3 colors (or did you color the ends)? I typically see it as 1 color per gauge.

I think I will go ahead and try this mod (or series of mods) to enable better control surface authority, to use a larger battery pack (perhaps without the need to carve), and add tail weight (servos instead of lead). If it can be pulled off without dismantling the fuselage, it looks like a winner.

Thanks,
Bombay
Night Flying Accessories for Sale (LEDs, controllers)

Mine was left over from building a motor.
http://www.gobrushless.com/shop/inde...=MW-24G-XXX-QP But that's kind of expensive for what you want.

Another suggestion..check out anyone in your town that rewires motors, commercial types like car starting motors/pump motors/pool pumps/etc.

No reason you can't color the ends or even just use an ohm meter to determine which wire is which before soldering to servo wire.

thank you for all the ideas.
as i said, i have run wires through the sleeves with 3 planes before.
but then i used wire that has plastic cover, the same that comes with the servos.
in this case the sleeve is too narrow for that.
and am not sure if i would use magnet wire in a situation like this in the future, as it seems too fragile for regular use, and am afraid they could loose the coating and short . even with motors the wire is tightly wound, and they cover it with shrink tubing at the end, but here inside of the sleeve it is sort of rubbing against each other, and at the exit is where there is more chance to break, or loose the insulation.
and you have to have the wire-or buy it.
still, it's good to hear it works for you.
thanks again.

i have a set of fox wings new in box. if some1 needs it let me know.
usually i don't trade (see my rate=1) but am offering this as i am designing a new wing and have no use for it, besides it is not available anywhere else as far as i know.

am in windsor, ontario, so this could be especially convenient for fellows near here to save on mail.
or can pick it up if living nearby. just pm me.

i forgot something that i learned long ago that comes handy if in need for installing servos at the tail.
1.-take a rod of the size you want the hole to be for running wires. it can be any metal.
2.-grind the tip with the shape of a twist drill.
3.-at the other end, attach some means to hold it, like a handle, so you are able to twist it.
4.-mark the place where you want to start the hole at the rear of the fuselage.
5.- figure out the trajectory so the drill does exit at the place where you need it.
6.-turn it as you move forward until it exits at the front-hopefully at the place you need it.
7.-take a wire or dowel smaller than the hole diameter and attach the 3 wires with cya and push it until the wires exit at the front.
it really is not too hard to make it exit where you need it. a rod of about 3/16 to 1/4" is rigid enough to hold the direction you want.
if only i remembered this i wouldn't have to slice the fuse.

am intrigued about the positions of the center of gravity.
some use 40mm, and others go as far as 60 (maybe more? i haven't read all the posts).
what has been the experience on this?
could any1 provide links for comments?
40 mm is 18%, and 69 is 26%, and this is still too far forward. usually planes balance around 33%.
does it mean that the plane is unstable if balancing at 33%?
in other words, is the plane so unstable that it is necessary to balance it further forward from the standard?
again, i hope that some still read this thread and bring comments.
the plane is so nice that deserves more efforts to make it flyable, despite some drawbacks.
am aware that the nose is way longer than usual, and that may be the reason for balancing it so far forward.
thanks

The balance problem is due to the construction of the plane. To get 60mm, the foam behind the battery compartment has to be removed and the battery slipped back all the way back to the next fuselage compartment.

It glides way better with the cg back. If your goal is keeping the plane in the air as long as possible than a more rearward cg is the ticket.

yeah. i have seem posts that show the pack at the rear canopy, and that is 1 option that am considering. when i reach the point of having the plane finished i will shift the pack to make the plane balance at 33% and see. some 2 meters sailplanes have a nose 8 to 9" and this is 14.
will see.

Originally Posted by phil alvirez

yeah. i have seem posts that show the pack at the rear canopy, and that is 1 option that am considering. when i reach the point of having the plane finished i will shift the pack to make the plane balance at 33% and see. some 2 meters sailplanes have a nose 8 to 9" and this is 14.
will see.

I have had 3 FOX planes and the first two needed weight in the tail
The 3rd one I bought at BananaHobby and the rudder servo was in the tail. On that one I did not have any problem with CG as stock.

I am using 1300ma batteries.

My favorite glider of all by a long shot!

I fly my Fox with the CG at about the 56/57mm mark and it floats along quite nicely. I normally fly using 2200mah lipos and have cut just a little of foam to get the pack far enough back as I have two tail mounted servos.

Steve.

Originally Posted by phil alvirez

yeah. i have seem posts that show the pack at the rear canopy, and that is 1 option that am considering. when i reach the point of having the plane finished i will shift the pack to make the plane balance at 33% and see. some 2 meters sailplanes have a nose 8 to 9" and this is 14.
will see.

Is that 33% of mean aerodynamic chord, or of root chord?