Why is the Walkera 4#3 so unstable compared to other micro FP's? - Page 3 - RC Groups
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Aug 17, 2010, 08:34 PM
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EQMOD's Avatar
here, just to share what a 45 degree flybar response looks like on a 4#3 walkera heli;

Walkera 4#3 45 degree flybar Bell Hiller Head - Around the Pole (0 min 42 sec)
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Aug 18, 2010, 01:38 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty1000
The 4#3A and 4#3B used to be identical, except that the metal parts on the 4#3B were plastic on the 4#3A. The 4#3B evolved to be brushless then double brushless and was always the more popular of the two.
Ask anyone who owns both (like me) and they'll tell you the 4#3A flies better.
Ok, so just stick to the original A-parts - no brushless conversions or the likes, right?! When I need replacing parts, I just as well pick the "best"...
Aug 18, 2010, 08:09 AM
Flower of Scotland
Dusty1000's Avatar
The only non-stock parts on my 4#3A nowadays are 4#3Q blades. I do have an AeoRC brushless conversion which I'm going to try after it's current brushed motor finally dies, but the new motor and esc/converter together, only weigh 1g more than a stock brushed motor so hopefully won't affect flight characteristics too much. The Walkera bl motor and esc are considerably heavier.

I don't see the point in a bl tail motor either. As long as the tail can handle the power of the main motor and the weight of the heli, it's good enough. Again, upgrading will add a lot of weight. I recently bought a bunch of stock tail motors just in case they stop making them.

Most of the parts on my 4#3A and B are original, although I replaced the head on my 4#3B 18 months so ago due to wear, but I've never actually broken any part of it, same with the 4#3A. Tail booms are probably what breaks the most, skids bend but can be bent back into shape, and I've broken a few blades. Never had to replace anything electronic apart from motors. One of the servos on my 4#3B even has a hole in the side but it still works

Only problem with the 4#3A nowadays is finding one. The only supplier I know of who still has some in stock is rchobbyhelicopter.com

http://www.rchobbyhelicopter.com/sto...RC_Helicopters

Dusty
Aug 18, 2010, 08:28 AM
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Air Vaca's Avatar
That is the funny thing about the "A"...very few vendors carried them. There are probably more of them flying than were sold, a lot of "B"s converted to "A" parts. the "A" parts are generally better...lighter and near as strong as the cnc metal.

regards,
Bill
Aug 18, 2010, 10:13 AM
Flower of Scotland
Dusty1000's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Air Vaca
There are probably more of them flying than were sold
Haha I can believe that. I bought my A just because I liked the B so much. If there hadn't been an A I would probably have bought another B, but I'm so glad there was

The names are kind of strange though (which is nothing unusual for Walkera) since as I remember, the B came out first. You would have thought the first one would have been called the A. They should have called them the 4#3Ace and the 4#3Bling

Dusty
Aug 18, 2010, 10:32 AM
Registered User
Air Vaca's Avatar
I think I was one of the first to try the "A" parts...the price was the attraction and found them better than the metal. I practically had to twist arms convincing my friends to even try 'em.
Maybe that's why the "A" came out after the "B"???
I need to knock the dust off mine...been messing around with ufo#8s and 4#6's. I wonder if I can even fly them any more.

Bill
Aug 18, 2010, 11:23 AM
Flower of Scotland
Dusty1000's Avatar
Yes I wonder, maybe they made them both at the same time, then realising the A was better, thought they had better release the B first.

Dusty
Aug 18, 2010, 12:03 PM
Registered User
Beckler's Avatar
The original 4#3 might have been a bad flyer, but IMO that just means it takes a bit longer to learn. On any heli, you can't just move the sticks and have it respond exactly. So your brain learns the actual inputs required. Same for the 4#3 but your brain will have to learn a bit more. It's good to learn on because of crash durability but I grew tired of fighting with its JUNK quality, such as the motors and carbon boom and pretty much everything else... And I'm finally at the same stage with the 4G3. It's been on the shelf for a bit, just put some new parts on it like an esc, but I know once I start flying it again I will become once again enraged at its ridiculous parts quality and finally be pushed into align/gaui (cant decide which yet) 'real' micro heli territory.
Last edited by Beckler; Aug 18, 2010 at 12:10 PM.
Aug 18, 2010, 03:28 PM
Flower of Scotland
Dusty1000's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beckler
The original 4#3 might have been a bad flyer, but IMO that just means it takes a bit longer to learn. On any heli, you can't just move the sticks and have it respond exactly. So your brain learns the actual inputs required. Same for the 4#3 but your brain will have to learn a bit more. It's good to learn on because of crash durability but I grew tired of fighting with its JUNK quality, such as the motors and carbon boom and pretty much everything else... And I'm finally at the same stage with the 4G3. It's been on the shelf for a bit, just put some new parts on it like an esc, but I know once I start flying it again I will become once again enraged at its ridiculous parts quality and finally be pushed into align/gaui (cant decide which yet) 'real' micro heli territory.
I don't know if I would call the 4#3 a bad flyer, but then again I could never do much more than hover mine, and I've yet to see a video of one flying smoothly, as in actual forward flight. The old style head was really sloppy, not to mention fragile, and the electronics weren't so good. The 4#3A and B fixed all that however

What problem do you have with your 4G3s tail boom? The only problems I have with mine are when I crash. Even then it's by far the most robust CP heli I have.

Dusty
Aug 18, 2010, 09:01 PM
Cranky old fart
Balr14's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beckler
The original 4#3 might have been a bad flyer, but IMO that just means it takes a bit longer to learn. On any heli, you can't just move the sticks and have it respond exactly. So your brain learns the actual inputs required. Same for the 4#3 but your brain will have to learn a bit more. It's good to learn on because of crash durability but I grew tired of fighting with its JUNK quality, such as the motors and carbon boom and pretty much everything else... And I'm finally at the same stage with the 4G3. It's been on the shelf for a bit, just put some new parts on it like an esc, but I know once I start flying it again I will become once again enraged at its ridiculous parts quality and finally be pushed into align/gaui (cant decide which yet) 'real' micro heli territory.
I don't know what you have been flying, but there are a number of helis that respond precisely to stick movement.
Aug 19, 2010, 12:16 PM
Registered User
Beckler's Avatar
I suppose that's true; it will do whatever it will do, based on its design. What I mean is it does other things too. For example flying forward then turning. You can't just move sticks, hold and hope it works. More to the point, you can't push a 'turn' button that translates your thought into a helicopter movement. (Using your fingers though to push it is a feat of learning in itself, however). Also, stick motion only roughly approximates corresponding motion of the helicopter (e.g. physically moving L rudder stick doesn't somehow naturally equate to yawing).

None of which says anything too insightful except 'bad flying heli' is just one more technique to learn, like nose-in, or anything else


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