Espadita - Jaro Muller does things differently! - RC Groups
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Aug 09, 2010, 12:38 PM
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dbeach's Avatar
Build Log

Espadita - Jaro Muller does things differently!

OK, I saw the Espadita at the 2009 NATS and decided I wanted one. It was just too pretty to resist and looks like downright fun to fly!

You can't really call this a build log since it only took three sessions to 'assemble' the plane. I did make a couple of mistakes along the way, and hopefully this will help others avoid them.

The Espadita is imported to the US by Skip Miller Models. The only instructions are a PDF document of photos on the Espadita web page.

In addition to the model, I also purchased the bag set. After delivery I learned of an optional ballast set which I hope to have soon.
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Aug 09, 2010, 12:48 PM
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Servos, receiver, etc.

The model is built for specific servos. My only variation was on the rudder servo.

Aileron - Futaba 3155
Flap - Futaba 3150
Elevator - Futaba 3155
Rudder - JR 285 (in retrospect I would recommend the MG version)

Receiver - Spektrum AR7600 w. data logger

Battery - 4 cell Elite 1500 2/3A in the bullet configuration
Aug 09, 2010, 12:54 PM
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Start with radio setup

I always start by setting up the transmitter with the servos all labeled and positioned as they will sit in the plane. I take care of servo reversing now, as well as the sub trim center point adjustment for flaps (which is critical as you will see later). It's also nice to know that the servos are working before you cut the leads off for custom wiring!
Aug 09, 2010, 12:59 PM
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The small parts - ball bearings included

Here are the small parts with labels that I've supplied. Yes, the fully integrated servo drive (FISD) uses very specialized hardware.
Aug 09, 2010, 01:12 PM
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Tow hook installed for now

The ballast system includes it's own tow hook, but I've used the supplied hook for now. The pre-drilled hole position looks very conservative relative to the CG, I hope the ballast system is adjustable.
Aug 09, 2010, 01:18 PM
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Very Interesting!

I'm looking forward to more on this build. It is very unique. I especially like your approach of setting up the radio first!

I have flown a buddy's Espadita and it is also very unique to fly. The best short description I can give is - slick!

Aug 09, 2010, 01:19 PM
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Aileron servo install - no problem!

Cut off the mounting lugs on the aileron servos. Glue on the blocks as shown. Remove the set screw from the pre-installed aileron linkage. Slip the servo into the wing, center the servo, center the aileron, tighten the set screw (I added a dab of Locktite) and you are done. Wow - that was easy!
Aug 09, 2010, 01:19 PM
70 is the new 50
bobthenuke's Avatar
I received mine just a couple of weeks ago and am waiting on purchasing the servos...I believe I'll go for the Airtronics Skip sells. I also purchased the ballast set which is very nice, but the tow hook that comes with it only fits in the supplied hole and anchors the ballast module - it's not adjustable. The ballast set it very unique and clever...comes with a number of "strings" of brass weights that slip into a little hole. Each is the length of the ballast tank so they can't move fore or aft.

I wish I knew about the bag set (but I didn't know about the ballast either until I asked) so that'll be included with my servo order. Overall a very beautifully produced chunk of glass and carbon.

Aug 09, 2010, 01:31 PM
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Flap servo - my first mistake, time to pay attention

Here you see an incorrectly installed flap servo. I ended up with the servo trapped in the wing, but the collar would not get in place on the output gear. Thankfully a slight bit of grinding on the gear through the hole for the setscrew got it straightened out.
Aug 09, 2010, 01:47 PM
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Flap servo install - the 'easy' way

Cut the mounting lug as shown in Jaro's photos.

While outside of the wing, position the flap drive bearing assembly and note the location of the retaining pin. If necessary (it was for me), grind down a tooth on the output gear to allow the retaining pin to be pressed in without forcing the servo output gear out of the assembly.

Being careful to align things correctly, I recommend securing the flap drive with the setscrew while outside of the wing.

Slide the servo and attached collar into the pocket first.

Slide the flap servo control arm into place. Drive the servo side retaining pin in partway, just enough to know the arm is secure. Ideally you want to be able to remove the pin if necessary.

Drive the flap surface retaining pin in partway, again just enough to know that the arm is in place.

Hook up your receiver, and make sure you are happy with what you have in flap centering and travel. Once the retaining pins are fully inserted there is no turning back.

Happy? Good, the hardest part is over.
Aug 09, 2010, 02:10 PM
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Finish the wing

The flap drive is further secured by the addition of front and rear retaining blocks secured by a pin head's worth of epoxy.

Wiring is the second most tedious part of the assembly, but now it the time. Solder the wing connectors, solder the fuse connectors, measure the wire length and add the ends. Once you are satisfied with the wiring harness CA the connector to the retainer and CA the retainer to the wing.

Now is also a good time to epoxy the alignment pins into the wing.
Aug 09, 2010, 02:15 PM
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Elevator drive pin

The elevator drive pin seemed like it could slide all the way into the elevator. I used a dab of CA on the drive pin to hold it in place. The pivot pin was already tight enough on one side to stay put.
Aug 09, 2010, 02:23 PM
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Fuselage servos - mistake #2

I made the mistake of installing the servos in the supplied tray outside of the fuselage. Instead I recommend drilling only the rear hole for the rudder while outside the fuselage. I ended up moving the front of the rudder servo more towards center in order for the control rod to have necessary clearance.

The 2/3A Elite 1500 batteries were light, and there is room for more. I had to add about 100g of lead in the nose for initial balance.
Aug 09, 2010, 02:26 PM
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Flight report - tomorrow if the weather permits

If it flies as good as it looks on the ground, I know I'll be happy. The engineering on this model is spectacular. The fit and finish are superb. No doubt about it, Jaro does things differently.
Aug 09, 2010, 05:59 PM
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A couple of comments: After talking to several people who actually own or owned one there is a question of the planes strength due to landing stresses at the aft end of the canopy opening. In the US, we drive our planes quite hard into the dirt/grass or whatever to get that 100 point landing. Normally the servo tray is tied into the fuselage sides to reinforce the fuse at the canopy opening. On the Espadita, the servo tray is held in by 2 small screws at the bottom of the fuse. Once installed, there is no additional strength transferred to the fuselage by the servo tray installation. You can easily twist the fuselage if you hang onto the nose with one hand and near the aft of the wing with the other. I've seen at least one plane break there and I know of one other that's broken there but I didn't see a photo.

For contest work, I think it would be prudent to integrate the servo tray to the fuse sides. I can think of a number of ways to do this including epoxying spacers between the fuse sides and the servo tray, screwing the spacers to the side of the fuse and into the tray just to name a few. I haven't decided on the method I'll use but I'll publish the results when I do.

Second, since it needs 4 ounces of lead, I'll use a 5S pack of the same size 1500mah cells you used.

Judging from your photo, the tow hook used on the ballast set looks like it ends up about the same place. If you give me a measurement I can give you an accurate account. I'll have a photo of the ballast setup as soon as my camera battery is charged.

I'm really excited to get mine going. I was told the adapters for the 809 servos will be finished this week so I'll get mine next week. I can't wait. George

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