SPYRO III , The rest is up to you guys!..Have fun :) - Page 4 - RC Groups
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Aug 15, 2010, 05:03 PM
It's all in the Blades!
SafeLandings's Avatar
The boom is completely removable and I will go over this in the next week. The length is still undetermined as this can only be done when the head is completed and I know the position of the blades. Also the fin shape has still not been worked out, the shape again has to be right as to give clearance for the blades.

I will make you a blue peter badge if you build the Spyro

I finished off the canopy mould this evening and made a video on how I do it.

Hope it is of interest and helps

Spyro III canopy making!.wmv (7 min 32 sec)

Regards Rich
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Aug 15, 2010, 08:00 PM
Registered User
Mud Duck Bill's Avatar
Rich: Isn't that cheap advertisement GREAT. Love the mug with the Tempest on it. Oh and by the way so was the video Can't ask for anything better I am going to be way behind but I will try to catch up.

Regards Bill
Aug 16, 2010, 05:25 AM
Registered User
flying scrap's Avatar
hi rich, great video i will have to go and buy a heat gun and a
load of cider
you could make the complete cockpit/canopy like that if the
bottles were bigger now i am thinking
Aug 16, 2010, 10:03 AM
autogyro andy
HandyAndy's Avatar
Rich you make it look too easy. Well done.

Will we need a sheet to cut out the wood for the mould?

I have an idea for the pivot, rather than using a bit of pipe that some may not have, or may be too stiff.

What about using a 3mm ball link.
Using washers on the bolt will stop it becoming detached.
Out of 10 please? 2 LOL

Last edited by HandyAndy; Aug 16, 2010 at 10:11 AM.
Aug 16, 2010, 04:47 PM
It's all in the Blades!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Nice idea Andy Perhaps you could try this on your version?..I would be unsure whether it would be up to the forces involved but it sure is a good idea.

I have been to B&Q today and found some suitable tubing that I will try on mine to keep it simple (1.19 for a 1 metre length).
The head is all drawn up and I just need to make it tomorrow hopefully.

Its easy to create the mould like I described using the cardboard template method, it didn't take long at all and at the end you have a mould that should fit your Spyro cock on.

However...if anybody does not want to bother I am prepared to knock a few up using my mould. All I would ask for is the P&P costs, the canopies would be free.

Regards Rich
Aug 17, 2010, 05:36 AM
Registered User
spitfire_Doug's Avatar

That was brilliant!! I didnt know It could be done like that, With just a plain bottle.

I might have to try and build me one of these!

Just waiting on the parts list.


Aug 17, 2010, 06:37 AM
Registered User
yet another pivot idea, why not use a vibration dampener ?
Aug 17, 2010, 02:01 PM
It's all in the Blades!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Nice one Nano flyer...there seems to be lots of things out there that are of use

Ok..I made up the head today. It consists of H1,H2 and H3 (don't know where the 'H' came from).
H1 was cut out first from 2mm thick lite ply, there are 3 holes to be drilled, a 4mm hole for the mount and two 3mm holes for the heads of the M2 bolts that are inset into it. When these are drilled I slotted out for the two bolts. These were epoxied into place and when dry the heads of the bolts that were protruding were sanded flat with the wood.
There are two H2's to cut out, these are from 1mm BIRCH PLY. The holes were drilled for the mount and were again epoxied to each side of H1 and clamped into a vice. I used an M4 bolt to align them through the mount hole before clamping up.
Finally H3 was cut out of 6mm BIRCH ply, the hole in the centre drilled first then the out edge cut second. I used a bolt and a couple of nuts through the centre, put the bolt into my drill chuck and got it round by using a file and some sandpaper whilst it was spinning The four pilot holes were then drilled.
H3 will give clearance for the M4 nut which will hold the head on.
I then glued a M4 cap head into the mast tube using epoxy (held down with tape as it will try to push out due to the air lock)
A small length of 6mm carbon rod (length on the drawing)was cut off and an M4 cap head inserted into this and epoxied. At the top of the carbon tube was glued another M6 nut drilled out 6mm.
At the moment I am going to use poly tube as the flexible joint.

I will talk more about how this is done in the next few days, it is currently being tested using heavy weights
I'm also playing with the tailplane shapes and the boom length but need to get everything on the top firts.

A few pics.I will upload the drawings for the head parts tomorrow.

Hope your still with me

Regards Rich
Aug 17, 2010, 02:20 PM
autogyro andy
HandyAndy's Avatar
Hi Rich

Looking good.

Ok I can give my idea a go. However can you help with a dimension I need.

Can you give me the measurement from the bottom of H1 to the other end of the mast. I know you said 220mm but thats not including the tube joint and bolt etc.

Or perhaps from the top of the 6mm balsa block, that was added to the top of the fuz, to the underside of H1.
I can then work out the mast length.

Last edited by HandyAndy; Aug 17, 2010 at 02:26 PM.
Aug 17, 2010, 05:18 PM
Registered User
britinoz's Avatar
G "Day Rich
I am following this project of yours with great interest, it is good to see the things that other modellers do to make it all work. I have been using the heat gun method on plastic bottles for many years myself ,but not with the vac cleaner attached,so I am very keen to give it a try.
Now I will be very interested to see if you can get this flexible pivot to work,as again I myself tried something very similar to this . It worked OK on paper ,but when I put it into action I found that the ""up'' and ""down ''was OK but the ''roll"" just kind of ''Wobbled""around .I found it needed some kind of rigid axis to allow the roll .
So I wish you good luck with this project.
Happy Landings
Aug 17, 2010, 05:33 PM
jodini's Avatar
Just saw the canopy video....BRILLIANT!
Aug 18, 2010, 12:55 PM
It's all in the Blades!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Chris thanks for the heads up on the tubing idea

I have fitted it all together today and it seems like it will work ok, but only flight testing will truely give me the answer.

The next set of PDF's will give you the information your require

Thanks as always for your kind words

Here's a quick video I just made of the head working.

Spyro head assembly video (3 min 12 sec)

Regards Rich
Aug 18, 2010, 12:58 PM
It's all in the Blades!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Here is sheet 6

Regards Rich
Aug 18, 2010, 03:50 PM
autogyro andy
HandyAndy's Avatar
Thanks Rich, and another very good video.

Soon you will be doing the finished-walk-around video!

Last edited by HandyAndy; Dec 21, 2010 at 03:41 PM.
Aug 19, 2010, 03:46 PM
It's all in the Blades!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Not quite Andy but I'm nearly there .

I made up the flexi plate today, added some rotors and finally decided on the boom length/tailplane shape.
I am basically ready to start covering (once I have sanded), when this is done I will post a few photos then see if I can go out and test fly it. When I am happy with the new plate etc I will post the rest of the drawings and go through the set up process.
The AUW without the covering is 495 grammes which is a touch over a pound. This is roughly the same weight as the Spyro and Spyro II but has an extra 50mm added to the length of the nose (I added lead to the others)

I am happy with the way things have turned out, I just hope you guys will like it
Do you thing the horizontal tailplane looks too small?

Regards Rich

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