Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 02:23 PM
loNslo is offline
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wood is good
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Ah!

I missed that useful bit of info until watching it, again.

The BBQ sounds like a bulletproof container. I have some steel, military ammo cans; also an aluminum attache case. It is obvious that any of these need sufficient vents so they don't, themselves, become a bomb.

Frankly, it looks like a bag simply isn't enough protection. Guess that's the same conclusion that led you to the BBQ.

Now I'm wondering about the wisdom of leaving the rig connected to my vehicle while I am distracted with flying!

Again, thank you for taking the time to help educate those of us who are new to the sport.
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 04:20 PM
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Look at the videos of the LipoSack and their survivors gallery. It's looks to work well.
I had my setup well before the LipoSack was developed but use one on occasion when I'm away from the bench setup.

Look at the videos of lipo container tests in post #2 of this thread, it might help you decide what to use. As far as charging by your car, odds against it happening are in your favor but cars have been burned so plan for the worse, it's cheap.
Old Aug 23, 2012, 11:10 AM
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Hi, I am having some problem with my 6S lipo and I hope you will be able to tell me what's wrong with it.
I have a Hyperion 6S 2600mAH battery that stopped charging couple of weeks ago. When I try to charge it, the charger gives an error that number of cells selected for charging do not match with the battery. This suggests that the charges is only seeing five cells instead of six.

I checked the battery voltage and the output connector is showing 20.34V. Then I also checked the voltage of the individual cell at the balance connector (it has one red and six black wires) and here are the readings starting from the first black wire that is next to the red:

Wire 1: 4.06 volts
Wire 2: 8.16 volts
Wire 3: 8.14 volts (this is the wire seems to be coming from the short/non-functioning cell)
Wire 4: 12.20 volts
Wire 5: 16.27 volts
Wire 6: 20.34 volts

So the individual cell voltage for the working cells would be:
4.06 v
4.1 v
0.0 v
4.04 v
4.0 v
4.07 v

Could you please suggest what could be the problem after having these voltage readings?
Old Aug 23, 2012, 11:24 AM
rick.benjamin is offline
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Taran
0.0v indicates cell 3 is failed (shorted)
The battery should be discarded.
Regards
Rick
Old Aug 24, 2012, 06:22 AM
REVOJohn is offline
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agree.
Dead cell. Get yourself a new one. Very dangerous to charge it
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 04:15 PM
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I like this Thread a lot... I got rid off 4 lipos after reading all the pages and
bought a Power Lab 8

fred
Old Sep 24, 2012, 05:28 PM
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This charging station configuration was something that I've always wanted to do. It became a necessity when I got my new T-6 charger as it was getting to be quite a PITA to work under the hood without inadvertently dropping things down into the dank, foreboding nether-regions of the engine compartment, only to never be seen again.
....AND, if while charging, a LiPo decides to go TU, it won't take out my transport.

The charger is powered from the vehicle's battery via a custom made 20' external electrical cable.

I store the batteries in that ammo box, but the gasket in the cover has been removed.
Old Nov 19, 2012, 11:40 AM
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I can crash anything

How long can you store fully charged Lipos?


Hi Guys,
Great thread but after searching it I still have a question which may seem dumb but I will ask anyway.
I know if your not using a lipo for a while it should be stored at between 3.7 and 3.9 volts (depending on which manufacture site you read). My questions is, how long is a while?
I fly 2 to 3 times a week but early in the morning so I prefer to have them charged when I get up. So the real questions is: is it OK to keep my lipos fully charged or should I be storage charging them even if I'm only storing for a couple of days? Whats the minimum safe full storage time, days, weeks, etc?
Thanks for the help,
Jimmy
Old Nov 19, 2012, 01:10 PM
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Last edited by aero104; Mar 14, 2013 at 03:04 PM.
Old Nov 19, 2012, 04:11 PM
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Good question Jimmy.
To the best of my knowledge, the storage times are cumulative. There is no "safe" time period. So less is better. If you check out the data on the effects of storing at full voltage at different temps, you'll see the damage can be greatly reduced by storing at 40-45F. If you don't want to discharge them to 3.85+/- volts because you plan on using them in a day or two, just put them in the fridge. I keep all my packs at storage voltage in a fridge now.

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/a...ased_batteries
Old Nov 19, 2012, 04:19 PM
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hoppy--Thanks for the link.
Old Nov 19, 2012, 06:32 PM
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I can crash anything
Thanks for the info, guess I'll try the fridge too.
Jimmy
Old Nov 29, 2012, 09:56 AM
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LiPo Storage Info


Here are a few links to some very useful info to help prevent our 'little bricks of gold' from turning into 'expensive ballast' during their hibernation periods.

http://www.bigrcmodels.com/RC-Helico...ry-Storage.asp

http://uterc.org/files/LipoStorageTips.pdf
Old Dec 01, 2012, 12:33 PM
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Quick question about cycling discharge voltage. When cycling a lipo pack, should they be discharged to 3.3v or 3.0v?
I've had chargers that discharged to 3.0v but my PLA 8 is configurable. Its default is 3.3v, but can be set lower. Thanks in advance.
Old Dec 01, 2012, 12:35 PM
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That's a funny word
Simple answer is "no" , but It is users preference and depends on the reason for the discharge or cycle. If this is really an either /or question then answer is of course 3.3 volts.


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