Hyperflight/Vladimir's Models ELF - Mini DLG - Page 42 - RC Groups
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Apr 01, 2012, 12:30 PM
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Apr 01, 2012, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ThermalSniffer
so is poly urethane (gorilla) good to use on that? I looked at their website and saw no glue compatibilities. Thanks.
Apr 01, 2012, 02:49 PM
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Neil Stainton's Avatar
I recommend thin CA on the tail surfaces.

Apr 01, 2012, 04:02 PM
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Thanks, Neil. That's what I have used on it before, it works well (thin CA). I have separated the vert. stab from the fuse a little, so I have a combination of a cracked boom right at where the stab is mounted - as well as some weakened foam around that joint as well. I like how gorilla foams a little bit and seems to fillet a joint really well. I just want to make sure it won't eat the foam (I don't think it will) just thought I'd ask all you pro's
Apr 02, 2012, 02:14 PM
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Maidened my ELF today. What great fun it was! It was quite a breeze, blowing at between 8-10 knots, but the ELF handled it quite well. Unfortunately the horn on the rudder gave way, and that was the end of todays flying. It's now fixed again and ready for its next outing. Originally I had planned to fly my turbines tomorrow - but I guess I will fly the little ELF instead.
Great plane!
Apr 04, 2012, 12:09 PM
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Ochiburi's Avatar

Just Finished my ELF build

Hi guys,

Just finished the build on my ELF and the lovely weather changes into rain, wind, sleet and snow

I keep telling myself this is a game that does not reward impatience - so I hope it gets calm again soon as patience has never been my strongest suit

Thanks to Neil at Hyperflight for his excellent service and advice, and to all who contributed to this thread which has helped my build immensely.

I opted for a pair of Ripmax SD100's, an old AR6100e that i had laying around (case stripped off), a 1S 260mah lipo from my mCPX heli with the plastic top case removed, and a small voltage regulator.

I sprayed the rudder and underside of the elevator with some fluorescent yellow foam safe paint to help with orientation at height.

AUW came in at 103g with the CoG right on the money at 75mm from leading edge without any need for extra weights. I might use a smaller lipo to drop a few grams and move the CoG back a few mills after I am used to the model.

Can't wait to give her a chuck! Anyone know any ways to get the wind to drop?

Anyway, here's a couple of pics.

Apr 04, 2012, 02:38 PM
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Cool Ochiburi,

For what it's worth the transparent wing covering gives me more orientation trouble than the colour of the tail surfaces though that's not a bad place to add colour for differentiating yours in a crowd!

Windspeed, airspeed and groundspeed are related. Fly with the wind and in effect you have zero windspeed but tons of ground speed. In high wind head directly into the wind and do not veer course aside for a slight side to side zig zag to maintain desired position over the ground. If you are lucky you might even hand catch it as it reverses into your hand

I think you could do without the regulator. The regulator is really just an unnecessary current draw considering your receiver is capable of down to 3.5V anyway which is nearing your battery's low voltage cut-off. Claims of extended times with a regulator must be balanced with the knowledge that the regulator boosts voltage and therefore current consumption in this case (Ohms Law) while the energy your battery is capable of providing remains the same - in short it might reach the low voltage cutoff point sooner than if unregulated. Personally I prefer to simply swap in a freshly charged battery every now and then.

To facilitate battery swaps out in the field I have found that standard electrical insulating tape looses almost none of it's tack or stickiness on the elf pod despite repeatedly pulling it off and placing it back on the pod again over a 2 week period so far and I fly very regularly - almost every day.
Apr 04, 2012, 03:26 PM
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Ochiburi's Avatar
Thanks Thermal Sniffer, I get your point about the Wind but I didn't really fancy a maiden trim flight in today's weather

Good thinking re the regulator, I might spend an evening indoor stick twiddling to see how long before I get a signal loss with and without the regulator.

Happy Days
Apr 04, 2012, 03:56 PM
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thinking of ordering the elf, any preference regarding colour for orientation
Apr 06, 2012, 09:03 AM
Hogster's Avatar
I don't think the colour will affect orientation much ... I've often lost orientation of my red one, but have put that down to both wing halves (and both top and bottom surfaces) being the same colour. If the port wing was a different colour to the starboard wing that might help, but you would have to re-do the covering yourself ...


Apr 06, 2012, 01:00 PM
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thank you for your advice, took the plunge and ordered a purple one today with servo,s and 2s 180 li-po with ar 6255 rec.
Apr 06, 2012, 02:47 PM
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I got one of these babies in milky white from Neil. Took me about 2.5 hours to assemble, as most of it had already been done.

I have been lucky with the weather and after a soft dlg throw to test the trims and cg I gave it a moderate fling. I don't understand how a glider that only weighs 98 grams can retain such inertia. It really launches well. As Neil suggested the white covering really lights up well in the sunlight. Visibility is great.

I managed to speck it out on the first launch which put a huge smile on my face. When I got back I was surprised at the good penetration in the light breeze.

With the two D47's, 240mah 1s lipo and frsky 4channel receiver the cg came out at about 75mm, which feels about right.

I considered it a little toy when I got it, but its performance is surprising.

One recommendation for others though: the tail surface loves thin CA, just don't get it on the thin blue foam strips on the hinge...

I simply love this thing.
Apr 06, 2012, 02:51 PM
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Hi Glenbees,

If the 2s 180mah battery is the zippy one as sold by Neil at hyperflight then be aware that it will not fit without some work. I have a couple myself and to get them to fit I have had to strip off the original heatshrink and padding, clip off the red JST/BEC connector and associated wires, remove the molex balance connector and shorten the 3 wires then put on a new much smaller 3 way connector (Maybe a JST PH connector like the batteries for the UMX beast? or even smaller). I then wrapped some electrical insulation tape sparingly around the whole lot. It barely fit but is at least workable. Of course, by changing the 3 way connector, you might also need to make up a custom charge lead and a custom battery to receiver lead.

That's my 2p on those batteries anyway. Maybe you have something else

Belginique - if you were able to spec out on the first outing, what was your time? You might consider enterting a time over at flyquiet.co.uk where a fun postal competition is run with a category for 1m discu launch gliders.
Apr 06, 2012, 03:16 PM
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yes they are the ones from neil at hyperflight did not say say when recomending these for my spectrum receiver. asked about the balance connector regarding compatability with my charger but he said that with it only being a 2s he rarely balances them , i dont know. was going to ask about charging these lipos as the smart lipo has a jumper lead so you can charge the lipo but iam i right in saying that when you make up a receiver connection from batt to receiver you have to keep unplugging from the receiver to charge or do you make up a lead with a charge lead intergrated so you dont have to disconnect each time from the receiver. maybe a noob question but not sure as working with a small glider is a first for me, thank for any help
Apr 06, 2012, 03:51 PM
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Hi glenbees,

With the receiver generally being the lightest component in front of the C.G. I think that everyone has their's as the closest component to the C.G. On the Elf this means the receiver is below the wing which is secured to the fuselage pod by screws. It would be a major pain to have to unscrew this each time a battery needed charging so I think all of us have a lead with a servo connector at one end which is permanently attached to the receiver under the wing and the other end extends into the forward pod and is terminated with whatever mating connector is necessary for our batteries. We then simply plug our batteries in or out when necessary. Others have the smartlipo which can be charged in-situ so this technique may not be necessary there but it's a very flexible setup even if you are using a smartlipo because it means that with 2 batteries you can easily swap a fresh one in when it's time to charge the other.

Hope that explains things

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