View Poll Results: Add Another Option: BMN (Bare Minimum Necessities) | |||
no batteries, no charger, and no tx! $59.99(BMN) | 776 | 86.61% | |
were just asking for too much | 120 | 13.39% | |
Voters: 896. You may not vote on this poll |
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Well, I'm a (micro) heli guy and new to planes.
I'm using 70% D/R and 30% expo on both Aile and elev. Rudder is 100% no expo. All linkages are in the outermost (least movement) holes. Adjusting the trim is the tricky part. It's hard enough staying in the air without being distracted by a constant stick offset. When it's trimmed out smooth you can concentrate more on flying it where you want it to go, and less on keeping it from falling off the edge every 2 seconds. I can't help with the trim. My t-28 trim changes after every crash/repair. Just get comfortable with where your trim buttons are so you can click them quickly without fumbling and taking your eyes off the plane. Oh, and wait for the a good dead calm day for those first few flights so you can see what the plane is doing, not what the wind is doing to it. |
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This was my first RC Plane ever and i started with 100% DR and no Expo. No problems at all to fly it. This plane is so easy to fly.
After a couple of flights i moved the links further out to get more funky. |
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Difficulty with new micro T28
I just stepped up from the Champ to the UM T-28. Had a lot of trouble getting used to the ailerons. Crashed into the ground nose first several times and trashed the nose. The biggest problems I had was:
1.) Over rotating on the aileron turns and then pulling down on the elevator causing the plane to nose into the ground. 2.) The plane seemed to need constant up elevator (down on the right stick) to keep it from losing elevation. I think this made using the aileron more tricky due to constantly needing to push down on the right stick to maintain elevation. Any tips here? Is #2 normal or should I be adjusting the elevator at the zero setting to gain elevation without pushing down on the right stick? Thanks |
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1. Use dual rates, or turn down the servo travel, to make the ailerons left effective. 70-80% should be a nice beginner low rate setting.
2. Use trim to adjust the elevator until she flies level with no stick input. If you have to use a ton of trim, you might rather prefer to manually adjust the elevator by adjusting the little "U" in the servo rod. This is covered in the instruction manual. |
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Bob |
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At what throttle does your T-28 currently fly straight and level? |
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I got this plane based on its review and it's the first time i ever flown a plane. I am a heli guy been flying helis for the last 2 years, due to the stress level of flying heli's i wnted to switch to plane.
As a beginner one would think to go for Apprentice or Super Cub. I decided to go for UM T28 route because it was cheap and if it breaks i wont care much since i only paid $85 for new. Today, it was my maiden flight it was gust winds of SW15. It was crazy for the first 2 batts but after that i was getting hold of her and it was amazing how she flies........ it was one awesome experience. I did crash multiple times but without damage. Started off with wheels on but it flew better without wheels. All i would say this little rascal is awesome and i am very happy with the purchase. Now, the next question is should i go with apprentice or big boy T28...What you guys think ?? |
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Check the 'difficulty to fly' thread. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1434602 But it can be a little misleading, or rather can be interpreted differently. It lists Apprentice and T-28 as equal, and UM T-28 as a few steps up. Where, technically, all T-28 should be the same. The 1100mm is listed as lower probably because it's easier to fly in any wind, where what you did in 15mph wind is right at it's limits and moderately advanced even for full size T-28. Another difference though is that as you said the UM crashed with no damage, where the full size has a lot more mass and hits a lot harder and would probably have suffered some damage. Regardless, skip the Apprentice - it's a pure trainer. I do suggest though that you first get very -comfortable- with the T-28. Meaning you have no apprehension or hesitation in any situation... Your fingers react by reflex without thinking to get you out of bad spots. You can think far enough ahead of the plane that you know -now- what you're going to do -next- to make the plane do what you want it to do. Crashing is less of an issue because all UMs get weird close to the ground in turbulence, but crashing a larger plane will usually cause damage. After that it depends on what you want to do, speed, aerobatics, 3d. Most planes are designed from the start to fit into one or at most two niches. (The most difficult/impossible crossover is to mix speed with anything else.) Many can to aerobatics/pattern, and with skill 3d. But some 3ds are so extremely agile that it's almost difficult to do precision aerobatics. There are tradeoffs all around. Check youtube for the kind of flight you think you might want to do, and find out what style airframes the pros are using. With that you can find a consumer item of similar style. Clues: Shorter chord for a given wingspan = faster. (Less surface area requires more speed to gain lift.) Higher aileron area to wing area ratio = faster response (agility.) Shorter wings (Exhila) = agility. Longer tapered wings (Edge, Extra) generally = aerobatics. |
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I also started with the T-28, then i got the UMX Mig15 (Ducted Fan) and then the SBach 3d. Both UMX Modells are very fast and can handle little wind well. The SBach can also be flown slower if you put the battery more backwards. |
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Good news!
My dormant UM T-28 is back to life. It was tough to diagnos. Swapping in a fresh motor, only gave a few flights. What I found was the motor plug on the brick was not doing it's job. I removed the plastic part of the plug, cut the motor leads and soldered them directly to the exposed lugs. My favorite door yard flyer is back! I too went from RC helicopters to planes. I assumed with ailerons planes would bank like a bicycle and simply turn, nope! A good old bank and yank saved the day often in those days. Try some flat turns. Use the rudder to turn keep the wings level with the ailerons. Keep the power up some. It helps to have all the rudder throw you can get. The T-28 is a fantastic air frame. I also have an 800mm and a 54". They feel very similar and really do not require expo. As it is my thinking on expo ( now tri rates ) has changed. Entering 3D and reading a fantastic thread here in RC Groups, 42"AJ Slick helped shape what I do. Keep in mind it is subjective. I used to set just enough expo to keep my dumb thumbs from knocking the adjacent surface. Say moving R unintentionally while using E. Now I try to get all three rates to feel similar around center. Since 15 mph wind is taxing for UM T-28, you are on the right track. Coming from helicopters, you thumbs have a lot going for them. I would look at what your high rate throws are now. Move the rods in a hole or two then set your low rates were your old high rates were. Some expo may smooth things out. Try as much as 30%. One thing I did early days was to set duell rates up with the same throws and toggle while flying, this was telling. Of note, IMO skip the mentor. You are past it. A wind handler will add flights when high wing 'trainers' are grounded. At the junction of form and function is the E-Flight ultra mini Stick, or the 25e size. The ultra mini stick can use the same power systems the Park Zone T-28, BUT is a much more capable airframe. Good luck out there! Chris |
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Last edited by Wamp; Jul 18, 2013 at 06:50 AM.
Reason: droid
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