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Jul 26, 2010, 11:23 PM
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Build Log

PROFILES-P-40 Warhawk & MkXVI Spitfire Pink foamies 50+ Inches

First, I am submitting the build pictures, video, and build link of my 3rd homebuilt Spitfire warplane foamy that I recently finished. It is a Spitfire MkXVI variation. It is not true totaly to the actual plane markings. The original I built 7 years ago was a good flyer although it was a smaller. I wanted a larger model this time around. The build log link here will take you to the original build log and the latest version. This aircraft can be built by a builder in the intermediate range. It is also an intermediate and not a beginner flying model. When you think about it, you can build just about any warplane and others like this. Twins too. Those FREE line drawings on the internet can make some good subjects.

Here is the link to the Spitfire.

This is the latest video flying in some wind.

I may edit this page at times to bring further updates with this plane.

**Neons** Bob
Last edited by **neons**; Jul 28, 2010 at 03:10 PM.
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Jul 26, 2010, 11:24 PM
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Note: On 8-13-2010 I added some newer flight Demos in the 2nd page here.

Here is a picture of the plane I am going to post in the rest of these pages . This is my 4th profile warplane in this size format. I have just maidened it on the July 23rd 2010. This plane has a 4 inch longer wing than the Spitfire. The fuselage is 47 inch stretched version of a Warhawk. It is closely designed to be`similar to the control line stunters of the the early 1960's and still do some good flying as a RC aircraft.
The video here is the maiden flight. It was not a bright sunny day so the flight gives more of a silhouette flying. Yet you still get the idea of its flight charecteristics. I will add a better video later this week I hope.

Here is the video:
7-23-10 Scratchbuilt P-40 Warhawk 52.5inch - Maiden (2 min 35 sec)

**Neons** Bob
Last edited by **neons**; Sep 21, 2010 at 09:54 PM. Reason: More updated videos added.
Jul 26, 2010, 11:50 PM
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Plan Credit:

I want to extend my thanks to Pickle72 of Champaign, IL for posting the original printer plan in the Printed Warbirds Forum pages. . Without them my interest in rebuilding my Warhawk probably would not have happened. I modified the insignias from the US Army to the Chinese AVG motif. The plan below was in PDF format for 17" paper. You can link here to visit the page and download the plan for study or print if you wish. This is for a smaller version plane with more scale size wingspan.

This page was modified for a non tiled versions of the left and right fuselage of the P-40 Warhawk by Seagraves for users that could not print 11X 17 paper.

I did not find the untiled wings and elevator so I had to make my own pictures to make my plane to size. I will post those also.

**Neons** Bob
Last edited by **neons**; Jul 27, 2010 at 09:30 AM.
Jul 27, 2010, 09:31 AM
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Now what to do with thes pictures. originally these pictures were intended to print out and glue them to foamboard. I tried a plane like that and it was not what I actually wanted. I found the plane was heavy from all the spray on contact cement. I had constant peeling problems also. But, if someone wants that type of plane for there use that is fine also. Visit the Printed Warbirds Foums. I chose to resize and waterbase paint this one to keep the weight down. This makes a better handling plane in my opinion. You have to decide whether you want a smooth slower flyer or a slightly faster flyer which has a wing size closer to a scale plane. This is where the the photo tilers come into action. You will need one of these programs to be able to lay the plane out in the program to resize the above pictures horizontly and vertically. This has to be done independent of the opposite size. For example, when I lengthened the fuselage proportion to 40 something inches long the height did not change unles I wanted to change it seperatly.

My favorite program is IsiPlot. I bought it many years ago from this website below. I believe it was around $15 US. Email Stefano at the bottom of the weblink page and he will assist in the purchase using PayPal. I like it for the measuring scale lays out pages to print as you change the sizes accordingly. He will send the registration code to open the Free download program to become a full version and will allow 2 computers. I could not scratchbuild without this program. I love it with those 3 view drawings too.

Now here is another similar program that is supposed to resize plans also. I have not used this one but did get good reviews from it also. It should do what we need here also to enlarge these pictures to print out for the build templates.

Have a look at both of the programs and give the demos a try also. I am going to upload the first part of what to do with the templates after they are printed and glued or taped together. Either way. I use Elmers white glue or the rubber nipple bottle of paper glue called Mucilage in school supply shelves to put the sheets together. I have a paper shear to trim the sheets also. It can be done with scissors also.

I am going to post all the measurements I have on my P-40 Warhawk here later as it is getting morning hours here now.
**Neons** Bob
Last edited by **neons**; Jul 28, 2010 at 09:54 AM.
Jul 28, 2010, 10:13 AM
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Before I start posting some of the building pictures I want to give some of the measures of the P-40 Warhawk as seen in the above photo and video.
Z-Fold Pink Foam Thickness ...................3/8 inch...........9mm
Fuselage overall length............................................ ...47 inches
Wingspan.......................................... .......................52.5 inches
Wing Chord (Width)........................................... ........14 inches
Fuselage Height at canopy to bottom....... ....................8.0 inches
Nose Height top to bottom..........................................7. 5 inches
Elevator Length............................................ ............17 inches
Elevator Chord (Width)........................................... ....8.0 inches
Rudder Height and Width............................................. 9.0 inches
Propellor to the Leading edge of Wing...........................10.5 inches
Wing is set up from the fuselage bottom about ...............2.0 inches
Elevator set just above the CF Arrow Shaft Longeron..........
Wing Trailing Edge to the Elevator Leading Edge.............11.0 inches
These measures are within a ..................................+/- 0.25 inches
The Motor is a Hobby King Hextronic-DT-750 42.oz Thrust (Blue Wonder)
Battery Rhino 11.1v 3S 2200Mah
The actual ready to fly weight is 34.oz complete.
Prop is a APCe 12X6 or a HK- TGY SF 11X7 works well.
Last edited by **neons**; Aug 17, 2010 at 09:55 PM. Reason: more Info
Jul 28, 2010, 10:37 AM
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Start the Layout

This picture shows that 2 foot by 4 foot page of pink foam from Home Depot Home Supplies. It is 3/8th inches(.952 mm) thick. After I setup all my pictures in the Profili print enlarger to the desired measures I printed all the pages and glued them together. I then cut around the Warhawk pictures to make my patterns. After they are all cutout I layed them out on the pink foam to get the best fit and effecient use of the area. Theoretically you only need 1 wing to printout. You would just flip the paper over for the other half.

After you are satisfied with how it looks it will all be cut out with a new blade on the knife. In this case here it is layed out with a scale wingspan. I flew this plane in the printed paper plane and I thought it had poor slow flying capabilities due to high wing loading. So after I cut it out I widened and lengthend the wing to where it is now. You will see the additional peices in the next photo. You may notice that I also added more height to the rudder as I thought more area would make it fly more laterally straighter.

**Neons** Bob
Last edited by **neons**; Sep 01, 2010 at 03:54 PM. Reason: More info coming
Jul 28, 2010, 03:00 PM
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Now in this view I have made the cutouts I wanted. You will notice that the foam is larger than the templates. This was after I measured the wings and fuselage and I wanted to make the plane with a low wing loading and fly slower than the original scale size wing. I made them to the sizes listed above this thread.

You will also see that I bonded some foam to the wing tips and the leading edge of the wing. This is all an after thought when I decided the wing was to close to scale size. If you was making the same size wing you would make it to the size listed above in Isiplot Print Enlarger the first time and you would have the pattern with the enlarged sizes. You would not be bonding these extension pieces to the wing.

Also note you will see a left and right additional nose sections were cut out. These will be bonded to the fuselage foam AFTER the carbon fiber shaft and motor mount is in place. These will give a lot more surface for the wing to fuselage bonding. It will help keep it straight also if the fuselage/wing slot is cut right.
**Neons** Bob
Last edited by **neons**; Aug 25, 2010 at 06:14 PM.
Jul 28, 2010, 07:56 PM
old foamie
I often wondered what a really large profile warbird would look like and fly like , apparently Great! A nice easy build for a real presance in the air, good job !
Jul 28, 2010, 08:37 PM
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Hi Old Foamie,
Thank you. I just flew this one again yeaterday but forgot my camera for a brighter video. I flew it so slow into 20mph winds and it flew just beautiful. When I gave it throttle it just knifed through the wind. There is very little wind resistance, She can float too. It has such a low stall speed. I have no bad charecteristics that my earlier one had. This is bigger and lighter. The other one would give me a tip stall where this one does not. It has extremely good behavior.
**Neons** Bob
Last edited by **neons**; Aug 25, 2010 at 11:30 AM.
Jul 28, 2010, 09:03 PM
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What kills me is that it flies so well on a $9 motor. Great idea to scale up the printed profile planes.
Jul 28, 2010, 09:41 PM
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In this picture it is a jump ahead in construction. I used a simple plywood router adapter to route in a slot in the foam about 1/4 inch deep in the fuselage and wings. I ran the Carbon Fiber arrow shaft down the slot to give it a pre-seat for the rods so I could glue them in place.

Looking first at the fuselage:
Strike a line from center of the nose all the way to the tail. It is important to be straight and not up or down at the rudder post. The wing seat and elevator must be zero incedence to this line. I used a Art-Tech heavy duty plastic mount that has a stick in it. You can use any stick mount even the aluminum stick mount. Make sure the center of the motor is centered in the nose though. The stick needed to be drilled with a 1/4 inch drill right on through. It is prefit in place in the fuselage before glueing for a trial fit. You have to take in account the length of the motor and the prop back side to meet the fuselage for some spinner clearences also. This means you have to notch the foam out and test the motor fit in place also. You will also shove the carbon shaft into the stick as far as it will go to the motor. It will be Elmer's Ultimate Glued also.

The Carbon shaft had to be lenghthened to the rudderpost also. A small piece of CF was added with a small piece of CF in the hollow core and glued with CA glue. The whole shaft was light sanded to remove gloss for a better bond. Now that all is measured you can remove the motor mount from the stick. Now I use Elmers Ultimate Polyurethane or Gorrilla glue and run a bead down the routed foam. Dampen the Carbon Fiber with water and press in place. The water makes it cure faster. I run a masking tape over it after. The I take some straight wood over the glued shaft and place weight on it. The glue will foam up some. Remove all excess bleeding before it hardens. Place heavy weight on it and let it set up preferably all night or at least 6 hours.

The bottom edge of the fuselage has 1/8th inch full length CF rod in it. There is a step under the warhawk fuselage. . "V" it out in the nose area. Do not cut the rod. Glue it in also with Elmers or Gorilla Glue Polyurethane. and use masking tape to hold it while it sets up also. Clean off the foaming excess glue in a couple hours. The outer nose doublers are then made to fit after trials with the motor in place. Careful cutting around the motor. Squeeze out light beads of glue where the doubler will be glued to the middle fuselage.

I make a small mark where the glue line ends behind the cockpit area. Take some scrap foam for a squeegee and spread the Ultimate or Gorrilla glue around to make it even. Spray or rub the mating foam doubler with water to dampen it. Mate the parts to the fuselage. Use plenty of masking tape and elastics to hold it together as it may slide. Place it on a flat surface and pile on some heavy weights and wood to hold a lot of pressure while it dries overnight. The next day you will trim off all the excess foamed up glue. You will now glue in a 1/16 inch piece of carbon rod under the nose chin for those skidding landings to prevent wear under the nose.

The Wing spars:
It is routed with a straight edge the same way as the fuselage. The spar toward the airlerons have to allow clearence for the airleron cut outs and a little bit ot foam left for the hinges not to hit the carbon spar when installed. maybe about 1/2 inch away from th airleron joints. My airlerons are cut about 3 inches deep near the fuselage and tapers out to about 1 1/2inches toward the tips.

I found the wing is stronger and less flexing than the Spitfire because I did not lay the spars parallel to each other You can see they are angled to the tips. After the same ritual as the fuselage you run mask tape over the glue line. It is very IMPORTANT that the spars end up under the wing later. Lay the wings on a good straight flat surface and pile on lots of weight. You must have the wing dry straight with no warps to fly correct. Be sure the whole wing is being forced flat. Dry overnight.

**Neons** Bob
Last edited by **neons**; Sep 01, 2010 at 03:55 PM.
Jul 28, 2010, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by kdahlhaus View Post
What kills me is that it flies so well on a $9 motor. Great idea to scale up the printed profile planes.
You are absolutly right. KD. That is the biggest bang for your dollar I have ever paid for these motors. I have 10 of them. They do not call them the Blue Wonder for nothing. I always hit the unaware gasser at the field with it after a flight. I ask them " how much would you pay for a motor like the one in this plane"?. They just cannot believe a cheap motor flies that plane. What cracks me up is they had a price drop.

For those wondering. Here it is. They also have a Hextronic DT-700. Problem is they sell out fast. You have to be on the notify list and they will let you know. There is also a RC Groups thread dedicated to this motor.

**Neons** Bob
Last edited by **neons**; Jul 28, 2010 at 10:53 PM. Reason: More
Jul 28, 2010, 11:04 PM
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Now here is my home made tool conversion for routing. I used to cut my foam slots with a heated nail and a aluminum straight edge. If you do not have a router that may be the way to make a slot. Melt your slot in. The Art-Tech mount I had some time back and used it for this. I may have found it on eBay. Another good mount is the all aluminum mount here:
Remember it is offset center. You have to place it in the nose in line and the CF arrow shaft will be lower in the fuselage. I will mention that these carbon fiber Blue Arrow blank shafts were found on eBay in Sporting Goods subject Search. They are new and measure around 1/4 inch diametor. I have also bought worn used shafts there but some were thicker. They would go through the pink foam thickness.

**Neons** Bob
Last edited by **neons**; Jul 29, 2010 at 09:36 AM. Reason: More info
Jul 29, 2010, 10:49 AM
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Ok this is another big jump in the building. Her in thes pictures you see the plane coming together. Control surfaces are just pinned in place. I will try to describe what I did to get it this far along.

After the spars are all glued in solid you will be peeling the tape off the parts and preparing for some sanding. I also want to say the I use SpackleLite filling paste or compound found in Walmart, Home Depot, etc. The small tub is very light weight. It almost feels like it is empty. That is the one to buy. Not the heavy tubs used for wall repair in your house. Clean and sand the spars and fill in the pits with this compound and let it dry. You may need to build up in light fills.

Make a block sander from 2 pieces of straight wood. You want it to use 1/2 sheet of sandpaper lengthwise folded over the wood and sandwiched between the blocks. mine is 11X2 inches done. The top block should be a little narrower. I use 2 small and long stove bolts (Round heads) and 2 wing nuts. Stuff the 1/2 sheet in and you have an important tool. Sand the wing taper into the airlerons sections to leave about a 1/8 inch thich edge. I use 50 grit paper then maybe 100 grit in another block. After it is all smoothed you will be making the long airleron cuts. Remember to allow a minimum of 1/2 inch between the cuts and the Carbon spar for hinges. Mine is 3 inches almost nearthe fuselage and about 1 1/4inch short of the tips as the pictures show. You have to put a slight angle in the airlerons underside for movement up and down.

Joining the 2 wings:
The wing joint is bonded with 2 short Carbon fibers spars maybe 8 inches long. They are straight and parallel to each other. They will touch each spar. router them in. Glue the center joint and short joint spars with the Elmers Ultimate glue. Tape up the spars and joints. Now this is most IMPORTANT. Place a long maybe 16 in long and 1 inch wide scrap piece of foam under the joint. The spars should be on the bottom side. You want maybe about 1-2 degrees of dihedral. Not much though. Just noticable. Let it dry well. You should have a very straight wing with no warps.

Now the wing has to go into the fuselage.
I will describe on the next page.

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