ST Model DG-1000 EPO Foam Brushless Glider RR 79.1" Review

Now you see the motor, now you don't! The very affordable, good flying ST Model DG-1000 sailplane with its retractable brushless motor: an eye stopper with the motor up and on or down and stored.



ST Model's DG-1000 is a Two Meter (plus 0.35") electric scale sailplane with its motor on a pod that raises to operate and stores in the fuselage behind the wing. How cool is that? An electric sailplane that looks like a pure sailplane when the motor and propeller are stored but can be powered up in a few seconds to climb back up to altitude. I have been following information on this sailplane in the RC Groups Electric Sailplane Forum since last year when this sailplane became available in Australia. I couldn't resist the chance to get one at a club meeting, and then I got assigned to do this review of the DG-1000 for LiftZone. This is a very fun sailplane to watch and to fly. It is truly an ARF and goes together in minutes. A computerized radio is highly recommended as the travel for the fifth servo needed to be reduced by 50% in both directions as discussed below. The DG-1000 is good looking, quick and easy to transport and assemble at the field. Additionally it is a real attention getter at the flying field.

The main feature that sets the DG-1000 apart from other electric sailplanes is its motor pod that can be remotely raised and lowered in flight. I cover the motor pod operation in detail in this review including a video I made to display the motor pod operation. I also got permission to share some very nice pictures taken and enhanced by RC Group member, Louis Barretto, AKA HondaJet. My thanks to Louis! His pictures are identified with an LB in the caption and there are four of his photos in the Photo Gallery below. Double click on the pictures to see the detail and read his comments.

Wing Area:348.7 sq in
Weight:36.5 oz.
Servos:4 micro and 1 standard
Transmitter:Futaba CAP 10
Receiver:Futaba R6106 2.4GHz
Battery:3-cell 1000mAh
Propeller:7 x 5
Manufacturer:Sheng Teng ST Model
Available From:Tower Hobbies and fine hobby stores everywhere.

Kit Contents

Included in the kit

  • 2 EPO foam wing halves with one aileron servo installed per half
  • Fuselage with servos and rudder installed
  • Horizontal stabilizer and elevator with mounting screw
  • Short Y-connector for the aileron wires
  • One wing joiner
  • Set of decals
  • Instruction manual

Also Supplied for the Review

  • Electrifly Power Series XPD-8 11.1 1,000mAh 25C battery pack with deans connector
  • Matching Dean Connector to install on the ESC

Items Author Supplied

  • Futaba Cap 10 2.4GHz transmitter
  • Futaba 2.4 GHz receiver
  • LiPo charger
  • Foam safe CA
  • Kicker
  • Double sided tape
  • Phillips screwdriver

Instruction Manual

The supplied instruction manual is really quite good and easy to follow. On page 10 under the heading; "Precautions Before Flight #5 and page 12 "Landing" it is clear they borrowed from a manual for a Cessna 182 but otherwise it deals well with the DG-1000.

The instruction manual has a special insert that explains two ways to set up the motor pod activation system. In this review I used, describe and display what they call the "Normal" mode for the retractable motor system (RMS). It has the control to raise and lower the motor pod on the fifth channel and the throttle is on the left stick (mode 2 transmitters). The instructions also explain an "Auto" mode where the RMS and the throttle are all controlled by the throttle stick. I will cover this second method briefly as it allows the use of a four channel radio.


My first DG-1000 was purchased at the Modesto club meeting and was still in the original box and the parts were still individually foam wrapped. Everything appeared to be well protected but on this DG-1000 both wing halves had suffered minor tears at the wing root. I repaired the wings using Foam Safe CA and Kicker. This took only a minute to repair and was a non issue thereafter. The fuselage from that kit had three small crosses in the foam as shown in the picture below. The review sailplane arrived with the wings in perfect condition and in addition to the bubble wrap there was cardboard covering the leading and trailing edges of the wings near the root. This cardboard addition provided excellent protection for the wings during the initial shipping. Should completely prevent the probelm my first DG-1000 had, minor thou it was.


There were cardboard form wingholders on the top and bottom of the box to help keep the wings in place for transit. I beleive the top holder may have accidently torn the wings on my initial DG-1000 by accident when someone closed the box with the wings slightly out of position. I removed the top former from the box as it was not easy to get and keep the wings in the top former while closing the box. I still keep the wings in the box to protect them while traveling and to avoid hangar rash at home. I don't store the fuselage in the box as I don't want to assemble and then remove the horizontal stabilizer every time I take the DG-1000 out to fly her. However, if I do take it to a remote event I will safely repack the fuselage and stabilizer in the box with the bubble wrap to protect them. I recommend removing the top wing holder from the box leaving only the lower wing holder at the end of the storage box.


Each wing half had an aileron servo installed and connected to the aileron. The servo wire extended out at the wing root and was long enough to be slid into the cockpit area through the molded space for the wing in the fuselage. The wing halves just slid into the center of the fuselage, one side at a time. As they were slid into place the servo wires were placed through a hole in the front of this molded space and into the cockpit area. I slid the wing joiner in one half and the second wing half slid onto the joiner and into the fuselage. The wings were secured in place with a Phillip's screwdriver tightening one screw on each side of the joiner through holes in the bottom of the wing. I was really quite impressed by how well this wing joiner worked and how easy it was to connect. Nice engineering! With the wings now installed, the aileron wires were plugged into a supplied Y-connector inserted into the aileron channel on the receiver.


No assembly of the fuselage was necessary. Servos for the rudder, elevator and raising/lowering the motor pod came installed in the fuselage. I merely added the decals to the fuselage at this time. Installing the decals was the longest part of the assembly. The rudder came installed and connected to the rudder servo.


A wire at the top of the vertical stabilizer was slid into the control horn on the elevator/horizontal stabilizer. I then secured the horizontal stabilizer into place on top of the vertical stabilizer. There were two holes in the top of the vertical stabilizer that fit two molded pins/bumps on the horizontal stabilizer to assure proper position and alignment of the horizontal stabilizer. The stabilizers were secured together with a small bolt going through the horizontal stabilizer into the vertical stabilizer. It took me longer to type this than to actually do the assembly.

Radio Installation

I installed a Futaba R 6106 receiver into the back of the cockpit area of the fuselage. I found it fit well over the standard size servo mounted on its side at the back of the cockpit. This servo was used to raise and lower the motor pod from the back of the fuselage. I bound the receiver to my Futaba transmitter. A special mixer came with the DG-1000 sailplane installed in the fuselage to work with the raising/lowering of the motor pod and running of the motor. The pod's standard size servo and the speed controller were plugged into the mixer and I plugged two outgoing wires from the mixer into the receiver to the throttle channel and the 5th (landing gear) channel. I also connected the elevator and rudder servos and the two aileron servos (Using the supplied short Y-connector.) to the receiver as well.

There were some special programming instructions for the transmitter in connection to the raising/lowering and running of the motor. I followed the instructions and it was easy to do as they were written for a Futaba radio system. It would be easy to use other radio systems as well that have computerized sub trim adjustments. They included programming the 5th channel end point adjustment to 50% movement in both directions and reversing the throw of the throttle so that it would go from top position (off) to the bottom position (full off). I used a 3-cell 1300 mAh battery pack and I changed the connectors from the speed controller to match those of my battery packs. I later went back to the normal setting for my throttle so that off was at the bottom of the left stick and full throttle was at the top of the left stick. (It worked fine either way but I am used to my throttle going up with increased speed and off being at the bottom position.) I also learned that the motor pod activation switch (normally landing gear switch) didn't work if the throttle was accidentally partially on when connecting the battery in the plane to the controller. This is a nice safety feature but a safety feature I should not rely upon.

The radio installation was quick and easy and I secured the receiver in place with some double sided tape. The transmitter programming consisted of some servo reversing and the programming of the end point adjustment to 50% movement of the 5th channel. For that I just followed the instruction manual and the motor raised and lowered perfectly with no sign or sound of any strain on the servo. Battery all the way forward balanced my DG-1000 on the C/G, but I'm getting a little ahead of myself.


Before installing the wings as described above I tested the raising, lowering and operation of the motor. By throwing the 5th channel switch the motor raised up. Throwing the switch the other way the motor lowered slightly in step one, paused and then shortly after that retracted back into the fuselage. The motor when raised could be operated and was proportional to the commands of the throttle stick. The two step lowering of the motor is important as it allows the propeller to be stopped in proper postion so that it can fit back into the fuselage. There is a little black stopper for the propeller on the bottom portion of the motor pod. This prevented the propeller from turning except when it was disengaged. The stopper was disengaged at the very top of the raising of the motor pod and was reengaged as the pod lowered to step one. The motor was not working at that stage and the process depended on the propeller windmilling into the closing position before the pod lowered into the fuselage. This required the plane to be flying as there was no windmilling of the propeller on the work bench. I manually moved the propeller into the closing position when testing it on my workbench.

With all components installed I secured my battery pack in the front of the canopy area and made sure the glider balanced on the recommended C/G and that the control surface throws were as recommended below. The recommended C/G is 2.1 inches behind the wings leading edge when the motor was completely retracted.

Control Throws

  • Aileron up/down: 10 degrees
  • Rudder left/right: 20 degrees
  • Elevator up/down: 15 degrees

Watt Meter Readings at Start Up Using the Electrifly 3-cell, 1,000mAh 25C battery

  • Amps 14.4
  • Watts 151
  • Volts 12.4



The flight controls are four channels with rudder, elevator, ailerons and throttle. The DG-1000 can be flown with the motor up but it looks and handles better with the motor down when it is not operating. Turns are best when made with a combination of ailerons and rudder. By combining the ailerons and rudder in different amounts along with elevator it was possible to get the DG-1000 to circle in a flat to a steeply inclined circle. So far I have only thermalled her a half dozen different outings and she did her best thermal climbing in only slightly banked turns. I have taken her up from 400 feet above the park to about 900 feet high thanks to one very nice thermal and a bird that showed the thermal to me. I got a 15 minute flight that day with only about a 40 second motor run. I decided that in the future I will be bringing a lawn chair with me when I fly her.

In addition to the 3-cell 1,000 mAh battery pack discussed above a 3-cell 1,300 pack also fits well and balances the sailplane when positioned properly.


The instructions warn that the DG-1000 should initially be flown only on calm days. She should not be flown in winds exceeding 6 miles per hour per the first page of the instruction manual. On page 10 they recommend no more than 5 mph for those with few flights. With experience the limit goes up to winds less than 16 mph. Thus far I have not flown her in winds exceeding 9 miles per hour. The wings are thin and the supporting center tube only extends out part way into the wing. The outer portions of the wing are very thin and flexible. I found her very pleasant to fly in calm conditions and with winds under 5 mph. I had no trouble controlling her in 9 mph winds. This is a Sunday flyer sailplane and I didn't have any desire to try and test her on a very gusty day. Besides I don't like to fly thermal sailplanes in strong winds anyway. I plan to keep her as a fair weather flyer. I do plan to take her to the slope and fly her in light winds as she is a very pretty sailplane and it will be fun to see her right in front of me on the slope. I will try and heed their limit to flying when the winds are less than 16 mph.

Raising and Lowering the Motor

No concerns raising the motor while on the ground in preperation for flight. In the air I simply do it while the sailplane is flying level. It might not have any problem raising the motor in a dive or a climb but since that seemed like dumb situations to raise the motor I have not tried it. Lowering the motor on the ground it is important to manually position the propeller against the stopper as it would not windmill to a stop when the glider isn't moving. In flight I turn off the motor and give it some time for the propeller to slow down before I flip the switch to lower the motor pod. While I want the propeller to be slowly windmilling when I start to lower the pod I only want it to be going slowly so it can hit the black rubber stop and be properly aligned for closing. I seek to avoid high speed windmilling when starting the closing process as I don't want to damage the propeller, the stop or any part of the pod or motor. Thus far a few second delay from turning off the motor in level flight to flipping the switch to lower the pod has worked very well.



Turn the motor off and let the propeller slow down before tossing the switch to retract the motor into the fuselage. The rubber propeller stop is on a small piece of plastic and if the retract is activated while the propeller is turning too quickly that propeller stop part can be broken off. Several have broken off this propeller stop per the thread in LiftZone.

Not Critical!

I have been very successful at having the propeller windmill to a stop against the stopper in most of my flights and the motor and propeller have completely retracted into the sailplane's fuselage. I have twice had the propeller out sideways at the time of the second stage retracting of the motor pod and it stops with the propeller resting on the doors for the motor pod bay. There is no ongoing strain of the servo as far as I can tell. It doesn't effect flight very much to have the propeller resting on the doors. I just flipped the gear switch and the motor raised back up and I run the motor if I wish or just flick the switch and have it lower with the propeller spinning slowly. The rubber stopper now stops the prop and it goes into the fuselage and the motor pod bay doors close.

Using a 4 Channel Radio with the DG-1000

I have described the "Normal" operation method for the RMS system. It is the method I prefer to use. However, if a person only has a four channel radio and no 5th channel for remote activation of the RMS the alternative method uses the throttle control to activate the RMS system. The Flying Mode switching connector that was plugged into the fifth channel as described above is not used in this method. The high end and low end adjustments are made on dials on the mixer per the instructions. In the "Auto" mode the first movement up of the throttle will raise the motor. the motor will be activated when fully raised to an up right position by further throttle movement. Reverse movement of the throttle will stop the motor and then further movement will cause the RMS system to lower the pod and motor back into the fuselage.

Taking Off and Landing

The DG-1000 was hand launched with the motor running with a good firm throw straight forward and level into any breeze. After a short initial run level with the ground the DG-1000 quickly picked up speed and the sailplane nicely climbed up at about 30 degrees. I quickly got up to 400 feet above the field in a minute or less and I am not pressing the glider's climb rate to do that. Depending on the time of day I start my thermal hunt at about 400 feet or climb up to 600 feet. It is also possible from a nice large grass field (with short grass) to run the motor and slide on the grass until speed builds up and takeoff is possible.

All landings have been made by flying into any existing breeze and sliding to a stop on the grass. I keep the wings level when nearing the ground and don't make any turns just before touchdown. I make sure to give myself enough space to land as she really likes to float as she nears the ground. For those experienced with sailplanes there will be no problems landing the DG-1000. For the first time sailplane pilots if they use a large field for their first flight they should have no problems either. I have made all of my landings with the motor retracted into the fuselage as I believe that is the safest place for it to be when landing.

Aerobatics/Special Flight Performance

The DG-1000 is an EPO foam electric glider and its special flight feature is the raising of the motor to climb to altitude and then lowering it to search for and fly in thermals. The motor can be raised and lowered for multiple climbs during one battery run. The foam wings are very thin and I don't plan to try any serious dives or high stress aerobatics, but I have performed several nice loops with her. I have done some low angle long slow dives and she looks very graceful in performing those dives. I just won't be doing any high speed maneuvers.

As stated above I have been able to thermal the DG-1000 at my local park. A circling hawk showed me where the thermal was and I was able to fly directly into it. The DG-1000 nicely lifted up her tail and started to climb in the lift. I banked hard and in two circles had matched the circle the hawk was in a few hundred feet above me and like the hawk I directed the sailplane to drift with the thermal in the light breeze. After a minute or so the hawk was 400 feet above me and left the thermal but I kept the DG-1000 in it and she continued to climb. At about 900 feet above the edge of the park the thermal was drifting out over the delta and I bailed out of the thermal and returned to the center of the park where the DG-1000 slowly came down catching one small thermal in the process.

On another day I had a bit more breeze and I found she penetrated that well. I will probably go to more advanced programming in the future and go away from the Y-connector. This will allow me to program in changes to the trailing edge of the ailerons to get better performance. I suspect she will penetrate wind and sink even better if I raise the aileron trailing edges a few degrees and may climb better if I program in a few degrees of down for the ailerons. I may as well take advantage of the benefits of the Futaba 10 Cap transmitter and that requires having the ailerons on two separate channels. One day I did catch a rather tight thermal and got into a climb and became rather steeply banked. I found using left rudder and a bit of right aileron I was able to stay banked while getting back down to a 45 degree banked turn and staying in the thermal. She handled that situation as nicely as my full house Stork Pro 2 sailplane. I look forward to having more fun with my DG-1000 primarily thermal flying but also in light lift at the slope.

Raised Motor Works as a Spoiler/Air brake

There are no spoilers or air brakes as such on the DG-1000. However if the motor is left up and off the propeller will windmill and create a lot of drag. If the motor is not being used it can be used as a spoiler/air brake to slow or lower the DG-1000. If the desire is to Thermal or maximize lift the motor should be retracted into the fuselage. If I encounter too strong a thermal and want to come down I can just pop up the motor and not turn the motor on. It makes an effective brake. I of course look forward to finding such strong thermals but haven't done so yet while flying the DG-1000.

Is This For a Beginner?

NO! Although made out of EPO foam I do not recommend this sailplane for a beginner. I don't recommend it for a beginner for seeral reasons. I don't want a beginner to be distracted by raising and lowering the motor in flight. Additionally, the motor pod and the very thin wings of this sailplane are not designed to take the abuse a beginner pilot is likely to give them when learning how to land. A person who has mastered the basics of RC flight should have no problem handling the DG-1000 in the air. However I know a lot of pilots who are good in the air but all to willing to try and turn on final and catch a wing tip and crash. While I didn't test how well this sailplane handles such landings I wouldn't recommend it to those who don't know how to make a smooth sliding landing time after time.

Flight Video/Photo Gallery

Some Special detailing done by Louis Barretto to his DG-1000.

Author's photos:



The DG-1000 is a very nice receiver ready electric sailplane. The final assembly was very easy to perform. Both the assembly and the transmitter programming was well explained in the instruction manual. Thus far through more than 50 cycles the motor has raised and lowered remotely without any problems. My motor pod and motor look as good as the day I got them. I really enjoying watching this sailplane in flight with or without the motor running. While it is "Only" a foam plane she has very nice lines and looks great in flight. She has a very nice rate of climb and gets a number of climbs from the 3-cell 1000 mAh battery pack.

Nice scale appearance, interesting motor pod, good thermalling ability and fun to fly. I was looking for something different and interesting and I love sailplanes. The DG-1000 fit my needs perfectly. Receiver Ready, affordable and a nice flyer should attract a lot of interest in this sailplane. There are a number of videos and pictures of the DG-1000 by others flying their DG-1000 in this Forum Thread: Check it out for more information.

Pluses and Minuses


  • Motor pod raised and lowered very nicely.
  • Sailplane had a nice climb rate.
  • Real was Receiver Ready.
  • Looks nice and thermalled well
  • Applyin gthe few decals was the longest part of the assembly process.


  • My first DG-1000 had both wings slightly damaged at the root trailing edge. The current packaging should prevent that.

My thanks to Dick Andersen, Ed Holt, Bernard Simpier and our editor Angela H for their assistance with this review.a

Last edited by Angela H; Aug 20, 2010 at 02:49 PM..
Thread Tools
Aug 20, 2010, 03:27 PM
Real Time Recon
realtimerecon's Avatar
Is that Servo chatter(in vid.) when the motor's in up position ?
Aug 20, 2010, 03:53 PM
Registered User
Michael Heer's Avatar
Thread OP
Was that servo chatter when the motor was up?
There was some servo hum when the motor was up in the first video in the review. I made some adjustments on the transmitter's travel adjustment recently for channel 5 and the hum was greatly reduced. Most times it is not there at all and when it is there it is much less pronounced and only intermittent. The servo continues to work well.
Has any other DG-1,000 owner experienced this at all?
Michael Heer
Aug 20, 2010, 04:18 PM
Space Cowboy
ShoGinn's Avatar
Just flew my dad's this last weekend and it just never wanted to come down! The thermal heavy sod farm we were at!

So I know that this isnt exactly aerodynamically sound but we tried a pseudo crow method.

I know it doesnt have flap's but if you put both ailerons all the way up, it really reduces the wing lift and you can put the plane in a steep dive without over speeding!

We were worried about the weight for the first flight, but I threw it overhand no motor to test glide path..... and well we had to walk a while this thing loves to float.

I really like the model and would consider getting it myself!
Aug 20, 2010, 08:16 PM
Team Spektrum FPV
aaronredbaron's Avatar
great review Michael! That's an odd looking "Futaba" receiver under the hood
Last edited by aaronredbaron; Aug 20, 2010 at 08:28 PM.
Aug 21, 2010, 12:59 AM
Bye Bye VP Aug 2010 - Aug 2012
Gerry__'s Avatar
The foam wings are very thin and I don't plan to try any serious dives or high stress aerobatics, but I have performed several nice loops with her.
Here's video of someone learning the hard way:

RC DG 1000 wing flexing and break in the air! Key cam got it all! (1 min 0 sec)
Aug 21, 2010, 11:34 AM
Plane Crazy
cincy's Avatar
yikes, bummer about the wing collapse. Looks like it was being flown very aggressively. Hope you can get it back in the air soon.
Aug 21, 2010, 12:49 PM
Registered User
dude7422's Avatar
Originally Posted by aaronredbaron
great review Michael! That's an odd looking "Futaba" receiver under the hood

this is writing above the spetrum rx photo post
Some Special detailing done by Louis Barretto to his DG-1000.
Aug 21, 2010, 03:06 PM
Registered User
Michael Heer's Avatar
Thread OP
As stated in the review I bought a DG-1000 and then got assigned one for the review. The picture with the non Futaba receiver also shows a repaired crack in the trailing edge of the wing near the fuselage. That was the one I bought. I was anxious to get it in the air and flew it with radio gear I had on hand. If I had looked closer I wouldn't have posted that picture. My bad. The newer "review" sailplane has only flown using Futaba radio gear. I purchased the Futaba receiver for the saiplane. No attempt to mislead. I am pretty sure it would fly nicely with the Multiplex and Airtronics radios I have reviewed in the past. Mike H
Aug 21, 2010, 04:31 PM
Registered User
Michael Heer's Avatar
Thread OP
As stated in my review the wings are quite thin and they give a limit to flying it in a wind of no more than 16 mph. I have done several loop de loops with out any problems. I ran the motor to climb and at the top of the loop turned the motor off and did the second half of the loop with the aid of gravity alone. The following quote is from the aerobatic section of my review.

"The DG-1000 is an EPO foam electric glider and its special flight feature is the raising of the motor to climb to altitude and then lowering it to search for and fly in thermals. The motor can be raised and lowered for multiple climbs during one battery run. The foam wings are very thin and I don't plan to try any serious dives or high stress aerobatics, but I have performed several nice loops with her. I have done some low angle long slow dives and she looks very graceful in performing those dives. I just won't be doing any high speed maneuvers."

Michael Heer
Aug 22, 2010, 07:12 AM
Registered User
Great review. It's a very interesting design.
Aug 22, 2010, 09:37 AM
Crash & Burn
rmgmag's Avatar
I just ordered one from Tower Hobbies, they waived the shipping costs, so I thought $150 was a good deal. I've been flying an assortment of planes for 15+ years, but this will be my first glider.

I was thinking that it would be pretty easy to put in a strip of CF under the wings to strengthen them a bit, just in case......
Aug 22, 2010, 12:03 PM
Registered User
320pilot's Avatar
I bought one for my son, for his birthday present. Easy to assemble, and maiden flight was lots of fun...until the DG-1000 controls "froze" when we went to retract RMS, for a landing.
here is a video clip of the maiden flight, up to the loss of control.

(7 min 15 sec)

We were able to rebuild the airframe, but RMS supports were destroyed in the crash. All servos, receiver tested fine after the crash.

LiPo, TP 1350 had lots of charge left, AR6110 Rx has been flown succesfully in another foamy EDF..
Sad day, my son flew it very well, then I took over for the landing.

I have bought a new DG-1000 for him, but may back up receiver/servo power this time with a CC 10amp BEC.

(pictures and video clip also posted on earlier DG-1000 thread)
Aug 22, 2010, 07:21 PM
Will fly for food
davidjensen's Avatar
On my second battery flight the left aileron locked full down. I unplugged it and replugged it and it was OK. On the 3rd battery the left aileron did it again and then again even after switching the right and left aileron channel on the JR 921 receiver. I will call Tower and see if I can get a replacement servo.
Aug 23, 2010, 05:54 AM
Gravity's a harsh Mistress....
southernmd_man's Avatar
Originally Posted by rmgmag
I just ordered one from Tower Hobbies, they waived the shipping costs, so I thought $150 was a good deal. I've been flying an assortment of planes for 15+ years, but this will be my first glider.

I was thinking that it would be pretty easy to put in a strip of CF under the wings to strengthen them a bit, just in case......
You should have read the home page...$20 off any order over $130, AND free shipping. So all up price for mine was $129......

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