A comprehensive list for electric retracts - Please ADD - Page 10 - RC Groups
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Aug 27, 2011, 06:19 PM
Life begins at transition
I found the metal trunnion CSs have a lot more play than the nylon ones; to the point where I wouldn't install them.
With a bit of shimming it might work, but the PZs seem tighter so I used them.
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Aug 27, 2011, 11:29 PM
Registered User
bsoder's Avatar
wish I'd found this thread sooner. I ordered these before I found it:


Good choice, or did I order crap?
Aug 28, 2011, 08:45 AM
Registered User
LuvEvolution7's Avatar
you get what you pay for bsoder. if you read the comments on the page, you'll see that you have to set your travel points higher than 100% for them to work properly. I seen one or two that said they had to be between 130-150% for them to work.

if they are plastic internals, they won't last long, even on a light foamie. one or two carrier style landings will finish them off. if you decide to go with another type, you could always sell these for what you paid for them, as long as they aren't installed on a plane. or you could always cancel the order if they haven't shipped yet. I'de say try em though. worse comes to worse, you'll have to order a new set from someone else. you can't really go wrong for 41 bucks though, even if they don't last long.
Aug 28, 2011, 12:48 PM
You are a "go" for reentry
Maxthrottle's Avatar
Not going to get into it with LuvE but my experience has been good. I've tried to figure out why some have such a bad experiences.

I've had only two fail, one changesun and one 90. Both because of what I was doing with them.
I still have a set of the changesuns on my Euro and fly off grass. And yes they are getting wobbly. So on the other I just went with the. HK514s which are the PZ15091. When I swap them it will be with the metal trunnion version.

So my thoughts go to not the weight of the model, since my Euro when heavy is as much as 3.5Kg when I use 5K 8S, but how some bring their models possibly hotter than I do, that do you land under power or glide in debate, increasing the torque force above their rating. I use the FAAs approach to pitch up and approach under controlled power.

But clearly there are others who I know are excellent pilots and still have issues till they go all metal Eflites. For me that's more a Heavier solution. The Eflite Nylons on the other hand have similar reports, just less circuit board failures.

As for the transition point, this is meaningless to them working. This is just the usec transition point programmed into chip at the factory to which there are some inconsistencies but gear is on a flip switch; -X% to +X%. In fact for my RCBee sequencers I specifically ask them to be programmed at +130%. This way I'm able to use the same channel for something else, in my case ordnance doors and in another flaps, because the transition is set higher. Eflites seem to have limited it to only be at a certain range which I'm not sure how or why but if some put above a certain range they start doing odd things.

But they as LuvE said do ware over time especially if you use them for EDFs with high wing loads and close to the max rating weight of the retract.

My experience so far has been that they do ware some over time and that swapping them out, if needed, is cheap at $8 a retract Vs $50+ ea.
The metals have picked fewer complaints also so I figured if they all ware, why spend a lot of money on it and go with the lighter solution if the model can benefit.

One thing I haven't tried yet with the PZ's is to add a brass bushing to the pivot mount. That I believe would increase the life cycle especially on the PZ metal trunnion type now available.

If you want use and forget then go for the heavier $160+ Eflites.
If you don't mind checking and tightening up or swapping out now and then, the PZs do fine.

If I were on the PZ engineering team though, I would use thin gauge steel and punch out to form the inside channel track and pivot support to have them last longer. May be find out what fomula of materials
Wemo uses for their fans and use the same for the housing.

To me PZs are not much different than the Robart HD 605s that came in plastic to the rest of their line. They had their advantages being lighter but they could get beat up by fliers and thus Robart had the all metal also. I still have both and they are also at the end of their life cycle and cost way way more.
I'll likely replace those with some Eflites metals only because the models are above the PZ weight rating.
Got to go. LuvE I know you'll have something to come back with..... Be nice
Aug 28, 2011, 06:10 PM
Registered User
LuvEvolution7's Avatar
LOL. my only comeback is that I agree with everything you just said.
Aug 29, 2011, 01:57 AM
You are a "go" for reentry
Maxthrottle's Avatar
Thanks LuvE.
I just got my order of PZ's new Metal and rotating retracts.

First look; They do have a slightly heavier worm gear and a thicker transition block much like the Freewing type.
They feel very solid and make me think they can hold true the their rating class longer if not actually increase their load rating.

Odd though the rotating retracts have a nylon pivot shaft all one piece since the strut isn't locked in place. Not sure how those will hold up.

They transition slower so the gear train may have been altered also. Won't know till I pull one apart.
Sep 04, 2011, 06:07 PM
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bsoder's Avatar
I got the retracts from HK yesterday. They're ChangeSun V2 (I think?) with metal pivots.

So - bend the shafts or buy axles?
Sep 06, 2011, 02:48 AM
Mansell Models
N827TM's Avatar

Buy axles!! My experience with the ChangeSun V2 retracts that you have to unscrew the retract to change out the strut. Once you do that you might as well throw them away and get some E-Flite Retracts, because the Changesun retracts will not work like new. That was my experience with them. Just ask next time you are out there at the AMA field. I will be there the 24th.

Sep 06, 2011, 03:05 PM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
ApexAero's Avatar
N82 Sorry for your experience. I got the original V's way back, after reading up I didn't use them. They came out with the V2 and metal update parts so I got em and disassembled all three units and installed the metal trunnion and jack screw, no probs.
They work flawlessly! I put them in a 3.5 lb jet. 100mph take offs and high alpha landings using rotate mains, no probs. I even had to replace a switch board too and they still work! Ming at www.windrider.com.hk has a V2 tri set with machined oleo struts and cable with shipping for 97 bucks
Last edited by ApexAero; Sep 07, 2011 at 08:38 PM. Reason: spellin
Sep 07, 2011, 07:42 PM
Mansell Models
N827TM's Avatar

Thanks for the update, I might buy another set and attempt to use them. As of now I am covered on retracts.

Sep 08, 2011, 02:03 PM
You are a "go" for reentry
Maxthrottle's Avatar
My experience has been the opposite. I've taken every CS and PZ retract I've received apart to make certain the stop switches and lubed parts were all in order. They all keep working; one set above recommended limits.

You may have just damaged something putting them back together. I agree though it would be nicer if it were not necessary to take it apart to change the strut; which is the case if the strut rod has a E clip at the top. Just retract, pull the E clip and remove the rod. "No disassemble me" necessary.

I recently got my batteries mixed up and what I thought was from my RX pile was actually a TX lipo at 9.9V. The brief glow of orange in the Etracts was a clue. All three were dead just like that. My stupid. So I just got the boards from another set and swapped it all out. EZ PZ.
Sep 20, 2011, 10:28 PM
rovpilot26's Avatar
Does anyone know which axles need to be ordered for the changesun retracts? I have been unable to locate the right ones for the tricycle gear set
Sep 20, 2011, 11:51 PM
Registered User
bsoder's Avatar
Rovpilot, I got these - http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=EFLG104
Sep 21, 2011, 12:20 AM
rovpilot26's Avatar
Thanks a million... I was about to give up and just order the struts from pro design
Sep 23, 2011, 07:45 PM
Registered User
bsoder's Avatar
Ran into an issue with my changesun retracts - On one of them, the retract could be extended but not retracted. Turned out that the top end of the strut - on the top, above the c-clip - was a little too long, just enough to contact the worm screw that drives the trunnion. Easily fixed with a dremel once I knew what was going on, just trimmed it down a bit. Might be a total one-off problem or a very occasional problem, but I thought it was worth sharing.

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