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Aug 18, 2013, 02:21 AM
Registered User
FLYABOUT. Well i have downloaded and printed off the plan because I like the look of it. Yes the nose is short but I think with lightening holes in the rear fuselage and tail it may work. Plus place all the gear as far forward as you can get it. Oh yes, and use a close loop system, that would save a lot of weight to the rear end. After I have finished what I am building now I think I will have a go. Now let me see 5grm servos, 2s lipo, 6amp esc, 2000kv motor. Hmm makes you think.
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Aug 18, 2013, 10:21 AM
Registered User
Suggest this might be a good place for an old ferrite motor. A heavy one.
Aug 18, 2013, 11:24 AM
Registered User
harborflyer,

The text describes adjusting for free-flight (flee-fright? flea-fight?) flying, not RC, so my question still holds.

Jim R.
Aug 18, 2013, 04:32 PM
Registered User
Free flight has to be stable too. Probably more so.
Aug 18, 2013, 07:26 PM
Culper Junior
Just extend the nose 1/2 inch (who would notice) or use a heavy nose tire.
Aug 18, 2013, 10:54 PM
Registered User
hyphen1's Avatar
G'day all, I'm in need of advice for covering a solid balsa model. All of my previous planes have been iron-on film covered. I've read several articles that suggest tissue and dope as a base for a painted finish, but I have no experience with this.
Some suggest a few coats of dope first, then the tissue. Others say watered down white glue first, then tissue. The model (a scale DC3) will be painted and, obviously, keeping the weight to a minimum is foremost.
Any suggestions?
Aug 18, 2013, 11:08 PM
Balsa breaks better
Thermaler's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by hyphen1
G'day all, I'm in need of advice for covering a solid balsa model. All of my previous planes have been iron-on film covered. I've read several articles that suggest tissue and dope as a base for a painted finish, but I have no experience with this.
Some suggest a few coats of dope first, then the tissue. Others say watered down white glue first, then tissue. The model (a scale DC3) will be painted and, obviously, keeping the weight to a minimum is foremost.
Any suggestions?
G'day to you too.
You might want to post this in the Builders forum also. Not all those guys with this kind of knowledge stop by here.

Joe
Aug 18, 2013, 11:22 PM
Registered User
hyphen1's Avatar
Thanks Joe. It just seemed like an old timer style of finishing.
Aug 19, 2013, 02:24 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
Sundancer's Avatar
Tissue and dope is ideal for an all balsa surface and will add considerable strength as well as providing a good surface for paint. BUT you need to be sure of a few things:

Use good tissue. Most "wrapping" type tissue is pretty useless in that it doesn't have wet strength and doesn't shrink well. I would recommend Esaki Liteflite tissue, see www.freeflightsupplies.co.uk

Applying the tissue can be done in several ways;

Give the surface two or three coats of thinned (60/40 dope/thinners), sand lightly and apply the tissue wet using straight thinners brushed through which will re-activate the dope and bond the tissue to the surface. OR

Fix with thinned wall paper paste, In this case the tissue is applied dry.

When everything is dry add further coats of thinned dope (40/60 dope/thinners) letting each one dry completely and lightly sanding between coats with progressively finer sand paper, until you get te desired finish.

It is a totally different technique to film covering and if you have never done it I would strongly recommend practice on a test piece first.

As an alternative to dope, the same technique can be used with water based polyurethane varnish, a version of which "PolyC" is sold by the model trade although I have found that the stuff sold in DIY shops for finishing wooden floors works well. If using this, then the tissue must be wet, as there is no shrinking effect as there is with dope, so we have to rely on the water shrinkage to eliminate any wrinkles. The advantage of using the varnish is that it has no objectionable smell, as dope does.

But above all, some skill and technique needs to be acquired to produce the best results, do try it first.
Aug 19, 2013, 10:56 AM
AMA16634...Just Me
Quote:
Originally Posted by helmsman
FLYABOUT. Well i have downloaded and printed off the plan because I like the look of it.......
I also liked the looks of the Flyabout and dl'd the plan and loaded it into my Cad program. I'm almost finished cleaning it up into a more builder friendly document.

Question for anyone concerning the Flyabout....I noticed (unless I'm not seeing it correctly) that the wing ribs remain constant height as they taper toward the tip. Am I wrong there or is there a logical explanation to this?
Aug 19, 2013, 11:00 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
Sundancer's Avatar
Keeping the ribs constant thickness as the wing tapers will obviously result in a thicker percentage section at the tip effectively resulting in aerodynamic washout, ie. the wing should be less prone to tip stall
Aug 19, 2013, 06:32 PM
AMA16634...Just Me
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundancer
Keeping the ribs constant thickness as the wing tapers will obviously result in a thicker percentage section at the tip effectively resulting in aerodynamic washout, ie. the wing should be less prone to tip stall
Thanks for the info Sundancer. I thought it must be for a reason, just hadn't seen that before.

Don
Aug 20, 2013, 08:07 AM
Sticks, Tissue & old Diesels
brokenenglish's Avatar

Blackburn Monoplane


For a while I've been wanting to post a couple of my favourites, real classics that we seem to have missed.
I'm sending "full strength" files separately to Steve, for Outerzone.
Have a look at this beauty!
Aug 20, 2013, 08:11 AM
Sticks, Tissue & old Diesels
brokenenglish's Avatar

Jabberwocky


Here's another favourite. I don't think it will ever win a Team Race, but what a cute plane.
I've wanted one for the last 60 years, and I might still get round to it...
Aug 20, 2013, 08:50 AM
Registered User
**neons**'s Avatar
Broken Eng,
Nice subjects. I am thinking maybe something shrunk down for this falls indoor flying. Maybe the Blackburn would be quite interesting.
Thanks,
**Neons** Bob


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