Originally Posted by heliguyhigh

here are some pics of my zippy batts.

Dang! your gonna pack a punch with that set up

...

Went outside to fly 120 just now and #@$#@!@#$%^&*^%$#@# FORGOT TO CHARGE BATS.#@!@#@@!##$$$$.......



darn

Originally Posted by Blackanthem

I am telling you. There is a force field up there, every time.. same spot, the 120 was repelled backwards.
Stranger than fiction.

You are not kidding about that force field. Man, you were inches away from completing the "Mission". My hands were reaching for that chilled bottle of champagne. Good flight and good landing though.

Originally Posted by MJF

Went outside to fly 120 just now and #@$#@!@#$%^&*^%$#@# FORGOT TO CHARGE BATS.#@!@#@@!##$$$$.......



darn

Forgot to charge batts!!! That's like forgetting to load your gun on the battlefield! Not acceptable MJF! lol

Originally Posted by BattleDude

Forgot to charge batts!!! That's like forgetting to load your gun on the battlefield! Not acceptable MJF! lol

I know......


sure did suck ,,,,

Question for you kind and knowledgeable folks.

My 120 is flying great, and it may have done this all along but as I get more comfortable with it I might be noticing the little things.

Sometimes, seemingly as I give small throttle adjustments, I seem to get a little bit of tail wag, or a little "shimmy" going on. It's nothing major, but I'm just curious if this is normal and maybe I was more focused on flying and not so much on the fine details of every maneuver.

Never crashed, no mechanical adjustments made, no changes to my mixing in the last few days. Wondering if my tail motor may be going to pasture.

Originally Posted by Saxguy1000

I haven't used them, but they appear to be the same as Blade CX blades, which according to other forums, do work with modification.

The 328A is a clone of the 120 SR so I thought it might use pivoting blades. I guess they didn't copy the original as closely as I thought.

Originally Posted by Rampage

Sometimes, seemingly as I give small throttle adjustments, I seem to get a little bit of tail wag, or a little "shimmy" going on. It's nothing major, but I'm just curious if this is normal and maybe I was more focused on flying and not so much on the fine details of every maneuver.

That's just something inherent with motor driven tails.

Originally Posted by Atomic Skull

The 328A is a clone of the 120 SR so I thought it might use pivoting blades. I guess they didn't copy the original as closely as I thought.

You managed to remind of something I had considered a while back. I decided that I'm going to mod my 120 SR to the Beller Hiller from that 328A. It appears to me that it could be a little better control. I'm keeping the 120's brick and tail, but ordered the parts for everything from the main frame on up through to the rotors. I'll have to let you know how it goes.

Originally Posted by Rampage

...
Sometimes, seemingly as I give small throttle adjustments, I seem to get a little bit of tail wag, or a little "shimmy" going on. It's nothing major, but I'm just curious if this is normal and maybe I was more focused on flying and not so much on the fine details of every maneuver...

Atomic Skull may have a point there…

But I ‘am assuming its normal torque re-action married with a heading–hold MEMS chip.
Does it seem to be the tail rotor “gyro” catching up to the torque of the main?

Randy

Rampage. Pull the main rotor hub, and look at the top of the main shaft with a 20x magnifying glass. Look for a crack.

Originally Posted by Saxguy1000

I'll tell you, 90% of the TBE you will get is caused by slight bending of any of the the balls, balance of blades, and tension of the blades or the free movement of the flybar. Other considerations are the bending of the arms on the rotor hub and anti-rotation collar. The last thing that I have found that cured my TBE several times is the accurate adjustment of the pushrods. Your heli should fly stable without input, if you are having to give it constant more aileron than normal, you need to adjust the length of the pushrod to even it out. You will be amazed when you hit the "sweet" spot of balance.

Would you mind elaborating on what you mean by adjusting the length of the pushrod?

Originally Posted by jrobertson1277

Would you mind elaborating on what you mean by adjusting the length of the pushrod?

I am sorry tp disagree with you, but TBE has nothing to do with the pushrods. TBE is caused be wear in the rotor head, FLYBAR, LINKS, BLADE GRIPS, & SOME CASES SWASHPLATE. The links and balls will wear over time and that is what causes TBE. All your doing adjusting servo rod lenghts is manually physically adjusting trim which has nothing to do with TBE. Balance of the blades also has nothing to do with TBE...causes wobbles and vibrations. Can you explain to me what your heli was doing when it exhibited TBE?

Originally Posted by 1Pilgrim

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYvxaK9W79w

Nice controlled close quarters flying Pilgrim! Sounds like your machine is nicley tuned also! GJ !!!
Kyle

Originally Posted by jrobertson1277

Would you mind elaborating on what you mean by adjusting the length of the pushrod?

If you find yourself having to use more than a little trim, your pushrods can be lengthened or shortened by turning the plastic links. For instance, (looking from the aft end) if you have to apply right aileron to keep it from moving left in a hover, stop and look at the pushrods as you move the stick right. You should see the left one go up slightly, so this is the one you would want to lengthen a bit. I only adjust one full turn at a time to get it right. It may be that you want to shorten the left to balance, too. Takes a little patience to get it perfect.

All are free to disagree that this adjustment can eliminate the TBE, but you will be surprised how it contributes to solving the problem. I would call this "simulated TBE" and a bane to the less experienced. It's easy to be over compensating for a left or right leaning by using to much stick. Then, if this is combined with an off balance causing forward or rearward movement, you have something that looks exactly like TBE, but it's all about adjustment, balance and having a good hover without a lot of trim or stick input.